My MK1 3.2 TT Turbo
Discussion
To be honest you wont really hear the screamer pipe as the WG will only open at over boost, but i will be tuning the WG/turbo to give me a more linear torque curve, which will mean the WG will be partially open at certain parts of the rev range as the EBC is reasonably inteligent.
When it opens, it really does bark.
This bumper is ABS plastic and fits alot better than the previous one which was FG and very rigid.
I was going to reuse the grille but the Rieger takes the larger grille, fortunately Audi had this one in stock, but it is a bit blngy.
The Schmidts were going to have Satin black centres but im now changing the order to powder coated black gloss.
As for cost..she is obv not for sale, but there will always be a number that will swing a deal.
Just depends whether the 2 numbers are close enough together to swing the deal.
Steve
When it opens, it really does bark.
This bumper is ABS plastic and fits alot better than the previous one which was FG and very rigid.
I was going to reuse the grille but the Rieger takes the larger grille, fortunately Audi had this one in stock, but it is a bit blngy.
The Schmidts were going to have Satin black centres but im now changing the order to powder coated black gloss.
As for cost..she is obv not for sale, but there will always be a number that will swing a deal.
Just depends whether the 2 numbers are close enough together to swing the deal.
Steve
Wasn't overkeen on the shinny WG discharge so sprayed it black with some heat resistant paint..
I also popped down to my friends at Awesome to get the transmission checked out.
Put your volume up..
http://youtu.be/TaPYwROHRto
http://youtu.be/rQ8Yfnn6E3I
Shown below is the roller speeds, you can see how the rear roller tapers off at 40+
Steve
I also popped down to my friends at Awesome to get the transmission checked out.
Put your volume up..
http://youtu.be/TaPYwROHRto
http://youtu.be/rQ8Yfnn6E3I
Shown below is the roller speeds, you can see how the rear roller tapers off at 40+
Steve
Edited by V6RUL on Friday 17th February 17:16
V6RUL said:
Shown below is the roller speeds, you can see how the rear roller tapers off at 40+ mph.
Awesome believe that the roller speeds should follow each other and it looks like an issue with the rear transmission.
That graph would be consistent with the Haldex engaging on acceration, then partially disengaging because no slip detected, and no increase in acceration rate.Awesome believe that the roller speeds should follow each other and it looks like an issue with the rear transmission.
You could try engaging the handbrake (should disengage the haldex with a blue controller), and then re-accerate to test re-engagement of the haldex clutch.
The clutch plates on the haldex units are a known weakness though.
You need a roundabout.
Preferably one with no traffic, reasonable size and decent consistent road surface, ideally wet (better still snow).
Go round and round slowly building up the speed/aggressiveness of the corning.
That should tell whether you've power to rear, and to some extent how much.
The Blue and Orange controllers still basically only try to apply as little power as is required to hold the rear end, rather than allowing the 'drift' charactistics of a conventional permanent 4x4 system. In wet and in the snow they actually seem to apply less power than in the dry.
From want I've read-up, if then clutch assembly is going, your'll start to hear a clattering/rumbling sound, getting rapidly worse.
Preferably one with no traffic, reasonable size and decent consistent road surface, ideally wet (better still snow).
Go round and round slowly building up the speed/aggressiveness of the corning.
That should tell whether you've power to rear, and to some extent how much.
The Blue and Orange controllers still basically only try to apply as little power as is required to hold the rear end, rather than allowing the 'drift' charactistics of a conventional permanent 4x4 system. In wet and in the snow they actually seem to apply less power than in the dry.
From want I've read-up, if then clutch assembly is going, your'll start to hear a clattering/rumbling sound, getting rapidly worse.
I thought the blue was more proactive than OEM and gives more power quicker and deactivates under braking/handbrake.
The orange keeps a more permanent 50/50 power split even under braking.
The new range of HPA controller is similar to orange but drops power to the rear whilst at crawling speeds.
I stand to be corrected.
Steve
The orange keeps a more permanent 50/50 power split even under braking.
The new range of HPA controller is similar to orange but drops power to the rear whilst at crawling speeds.
I stand to be corrected.
Steve
I had quite a long conversion with HPA couple of years ago. Both Orange and Blue basically use the same PREX software.
The Orange and Blue transfer the same amount of power, 40% to rear with maximum engagement.
The only difference between the Orange and Blue controllers is the logic used to disengage when braking.
Both Orange and Blue do react faster, and do engage on moderate to hard acceration. But they still only engage as much power as the controller computer sees fit (more than a OEM though).
Haldex is basically the 'ultimate' traction control system as opposed to a 'normal' 4x4 system.
The 40% power shift is the max that the drivetrain can support. Even the SQS Haldex "locker", or complete replacement of the Haldex unit with plate-diff cannot change this. Its mainly down to the front transfer box gearing.
The later HPA controllers are for later generation Haldex units, which are more capable.
It was after finding out the 'truth' about how Haldex actually works, what it can and cann't do, that I decided to go down the route of Peloquin ATB's rather than trying to force more power to the rear.
The Orange and Blue transfer the same amount of power, 40% to rear with maximum engagement.
The only difference between the Orange and Blue controllers is the logic used to disengage when braking.
Both Orange and Blue do react faster, and do engage on moderate to hard acceration. But they still only engage as much power as the controller computer sees fit (more than a OEM though).
Haldex is basically the 'ultimate' traction control system as opposed to a 'normal' 4x4 system.
The 40% power shift is the max that the drivetrain can support. Even the SQS Haldex "locker", or complete replacement of the Haldex unit with plate-diff cannot change this. Its mainly down to the front transfer box gearing.
The later HPA controllers are for later generation Haldex units, which are more capable.
It was after finding out the 'truth' about how Haldex actually works, what it can and cann't do, that I decided to go down the route of Peloquin ATB's rather than trying to force more power to the rear.
I use the term 'Orange' in reference to the HPA 'Competition' controller.
iirc they where never actually called 'Orange' controllers, but did used to be painted orange
If you google 'Orange Haldex', this link comes straight up: http://hpamotorsports.com/haldex.htm
I assume the crabbing issue would be related to too much power to rear under braking.
I currently have a cunning plan to be able to switch my controller between Blue and Orange/Competition by putting a switch into the brake signal lines. Very low priority on my todo list though.
iirc they where never actually called 'Orange' controllers, but did used to be painted orange
If you google 'Orange Haldex', this link comes straight up: http://hpamotorsports.com/haldex.htm
I assume the crabbing issue would be related to too much power to rear under braking.
I currently have a cunning plan to be able to switch my controller between Blue and Orange/Competition by putting a switch into the brake signal lines. Very low priority on my todo list though.
Given the cost of complete haldex subframes, its probably the quickest/easiest/cheapest option if you've got an problem 
Chap on another forum found a complete subframe, with Blue Haldex attached. The seller didn't realise it wasn't a normal controller, and had the whole lot up for less than a Blue controller costs 2nd hand
Chap on another forum found a complete subframe, with Blue Haldex attached. The seller didn't realise it wasn't a normal controller, and had the whole lot up for less than a Blue controller costs 2nd hand
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