My MK1 3.2 TT Turbo
Discussion
ArnieVXR said:
Great reading and a fantastic build. I like the idea of building something like this for a daily drive that can run with the best street cars at the strip. What's the best quarter time you've made (and with what sort of power)?
I see that you live in Southport. Great little town where I grew up (went to Stanley High). Maybe I'll bring my Audi up there and we'll go racing up the dual carriageway to Preston
Best time on the strip to date is in the fours and twelves, but that was without launch control and a slipping clutch.I see that you live in Southport. Great little town where I grew up (went to Stanley High). Maybe I'll bring my Audi up there and we'll go racing up the dual carriageway to Preston
I will be going again with some revised parts and software on March 24th.
Both Preston and Formby bypass are quite good for a little push..
I went to Stanley as well.
Steve
Been a while since I've updated as I've tried to keep her out of the winter weather this year.
I've took some time off work to get some jobs done.
Head has been off for inspection and plugs, oil and filter change.
A larger Charge Cooler is going in..
Provent 200 has been installed and piped up..
You can see the revised SRI and throttle body installed and the headlight ballast is being relocated to allow the Charge Cooler and reservoir to be installed..
More updates to follow soon as she will be started in the next few days.
Steve
I've took some time off work to get some jobs done.
Head has been off for inspection and plugs, oil and filter change.
A larger Charge Cooler is going in..
Provent 200 has been installed and piped up..
You can see the revised SRI and throttle body installed and the headlight ballast is being relocated to allow the Charge Cooler and reservoir to be installed..
More updates to follow soon as she will be started in the next few days.
Steve
Edited by V6RUL on Sunday 3rd March 22:55
I left Stanley in 79 for a new school.
The original charge cooler was rated at 600 BHP but the new one is rated at 1000 BHP..bit of head room, me thinks as I want to minimise bottle necks.
Launch in a DSG allows left foot braking whilst holding revs at 4500rpm..then release the brake for take off.
Steve
The original charge cooler was rated at 600 BHP but the new one is rated at 1000 BHP..bit of head room, me thinks as I want to minimise bottle necks.
Launch in a DSG allows left foot braking whilst holding revs at 4500rpm..then release the brake for take off.
Steve
Car was running a little rough and it transpires that my timing chain has stretched.
This is proved by hooking an oscilloscope up to the camshaft position sensors.
The square wave readings should overlay each other, however, there was an offset due to chain stretch, which the ECU couldn't compensate enough for.
The chains were last changed 50k miles ago, but maybe the older revision of chains were fitted.
The newer version are 'a no stretch type', lets hope.
Well, i fancied having a go at helping out to swap out my timing chains at my local indie.
Do not be fooled that this is a 5 minute or driveway job, it is involved and requires specialist tooling.
Audi recommend that the main parts to be changed are..2 chains, VVT adjusters,intermediate sprockets, guides, tensioners, seals and stretch bolts for the DMF. On this DIY I have changed out the camshaft oil manifold assembly but I will not be including it.
As my TT doesn't have the inlet plenum, thats one less item to remove.
Coilpacks and harness swung out of the way, plugs removed.
All liquids drained out ie engine oil, gearbox oil and engine cooling water & charge cooler water.
A number of hoses disconnected from the block and DSG.
Lots of other stuff removed and loosening up the front sub-frame..
the above has been done to get this lump out..
DMF off..
which leaves me looking at this..
There are 2 covers that need to come off, which will expose the chains themselves..jumped the gun and cleaned the cover on the right..
Chains exposed..
Make sure the engine is at TDC by hand cranking the engine..
Intermediate sprocket markings for TDC..
VVT adjuster setup for TDC..
Insert camshaft locking plates once TDC has been set..1 per camshaft..
Remove tensioners to create chain slack.
Remove guides.
Remove intermediate sprockets so lower chain can be replaced.
Remove upper chain.
Install new lower chain and intermediate sprocket at the same time, align timing marks whilst tightening fixing bolt.
Install lower guide and tensioner.
Install upper timing chain and front guide ensuring slack is at the bulkhead.
Ensure copper links are as per pics before inserting hydraulic tensioner.
Rotate crank 4 times to check timing is still TDC.
Put all covers back on and rebuild ready for start.
I have allot more detailed photos and information, but this is the general thing to do.
TT is now running without codes.
Autograph are now setting up the DSG.
Steve
This is proved by hooking an oscilloscope up to the camshaft position sensors.
The square wave readings should overlay each other, however, there was an offset due to chain stretch, which the ECU couldn't compensate enough for.
The chains were last changed 50k miles ago, but maybe the older revision of chains were fitted.
The newer version are 'a no stretch type', lets hope.
Well, i fancied having a go at helping out to swap out my timing chains at my local indie.
Do not be fooled that this is a 5 minute or driveway job, it is involved and requires specialist tooling.
Audi recommend that the main parts to be changed are..2 chains, VVT adjusters,intermediate sprockets, guides, tensioners, seals and stretch bolts for the DMF. On this DIY I have changed out the camshaft oil manifold assembly but I will not be including it.
As my TT doesn't have the inlet plenum, thats one less item to remove.
Coilpacks and harness swung out of the way, plugs removed.
All liquids drained out ie engine oil, gearbox oil and engine cooling water & charge cooler water.
A number of hoses disconnected from the block and DSG.
Lots of other stuff removed and loosening up the front sub-frame..
the above has been done to get this lump out..
DMF off..
which leaves me looking at this..
There are 2 covers that need to come off, which will expose the chains themselves..jumped the gun and cleaned the cover on the right..
Chains exposed..
Make sure the engine is at TDC by hand cranking the engine..
Intermediate sprocket markings for TDC..
VVT adjuster setup for TDC..
Insert camshaft locking plates once TDC has been set..1 per camshaft..
Remove tensioners to create chain slack.
Remove guides.
Remove intermediate sprockets so lower chain can be replaced.
Remove upper chain.
Install new lower chain and intermediate sprocket at the same time, align timing marks whilst tightening fixing bolt.
Install lower guide and tensioner.
Install upper timing chain and front guide ensuring slack is at the bulkhead.
Ensure copper links are as per pics before inserting hydraulic tensioner.
Rotate crank 4 times to check timing is still TDC.
Put all covers back on and rebuild ready for start.
I have allot more detailed photos and information, but this is the general thing to do.
TT is now running without codes.
Autograph are now setting up the DSG.
Steve
Went to Lxembourg for a trip out with the TT crowd and had a fantastic run out and now back in Aberdeen.
2000 miles in 5 days and half a litre of oil.
Anyway, took a few pics tonight to prove she is not at the garage.. :P
Was running 10psi for the tunnel runs (350 BHP) so the screamer pipe came alive but I'm now on 20+
Steve
2000 miles in 5 days and half a litre of oil.
Anyway, took a few pics tonight to prove she is not at the garage.. :P
Was running 10psi for the tunnel runs (350 BHP) so the screamer pipe came alive but I'm now on 20+
Steve
Edited by V6RUL on Friday 17th May 19:35
geeks said:
Wow just read this start to finish, I love TT's and now you have me looking at Autotrader, keep it up!
Cheers, You wont find too many modified tiTTies in the UK, possibly 5 but they would be 1.8ers.The switches are for HPFP, fan override, custom lighting & exhaust flap.
Im nearly finished messing now, as its time to enjoy her more of the time but probably put her away for winters.
Steve
Ive decided to go a bit more stealth on the switches and replaced them with a more conventional item..
They can be wired to illuminate on being pressed or released..
I would consider a newer type bod as the DSG has known issues and may let you down if your after longevity.
Ive exceeded the limits of the box at the moment and require additional software which Unitronic are hopefully going to sort me out with soon.
The newer S-Tronic dry clutch boxes as found in the TTRS seem to be performing well.
HPA offer clutch pack upgrades on the DSG boxes, to hold more torque, but it is a costly change.
You will need some sort of custom software to allow the DSG to input some parameters like speed and load.
Steve
They can be wired to illuminate on being pressed or released..
I would consider a newer type bod as the DSG has known issues and may let you down if your after longevity.
Ive exceeded the limits of the box at the moment and require additional software which Unitronic are hopefully going to sort me out with soon.
The newer S-Tronic dry clutch boxes as found in the TTRS seem to be performing well.
HPA offer clutch pack upgrades on the DSG boxes, to hold more torque, but it is a costly change.
You will need some sort of custom software to allow the DSG to input some parameters like speed and load.
Steve
ahhh..there are quite a few modiffied 1.8 tiTTies around, but not many 3.2 TTities and the ones that are modiffied are mostly still normally aspirated. The Golf 2.8 and 3.2 boys have the most to show with power upgrades. There are only a few 3.2/3.3 turboed/superchrged tiTTies around and although the Golf and TT share the same platform, differances do appear, which make builds more interesting.
Steve
Steve
Edited by V6RUL on Wednesday 9th October 12:36
Took a trip down to Pipewerx today for a bigger back-box to quieten things down whilst running through sleepy hollows.
Pipewerx roll their own boxes so I was able to get a custom fit.
The new box is twice the volume of the old one..
Old..
Gone..
Mockup stage..
New one in and already signs it's suppressing the noise as the gases are tarnishing the box..
The old box was running 3" perforation and the new is 2.5"
Whilst I was there Jeff spun the rear KWs through 180 to move the oil reservoir away from the rims..
Steve
Pipewerx roll their own boxes so I was able to get a custom fit.
The new box is twice the volume of the old one..
Old..
Gone..
Mockup stage..
New one in and already signs it's suppressing the noise as the gases are tarnishing the box..
The old box was running 3" perforation and the new is 2.5"
Whilst I was there Jeff spun the rear KWs through 180 to move the oil reservoir away from the rims..
Steve
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