My MK1 3.2 TT Turbo
Discussion
I left Stanley in 79 for a new school.
The original charge cooler was rated at 600 BHP but the new one is rated at 1000 BHP..bit of head room, me thinks as I want to minimise bottle necks.
Launch in a DSG allows left foot braking whilst holding revs at 4500rpm..then release the brake for take off.
Steve
The original charge cooler was rated at 600 BHP but the new one is rated at 1000 BHP..bit of head room, me thinks as I want to minimise bottle necks.
Launch in a DSG allows left foot braking whilst holding revs at 4500rpm..then release the brake for take off.
Steve
Car was running a little rough and it transpires that my timing chain has stretched.
This is proved by hooking an oscilloscope up to the camshaft position sensors.
The square wave readings should overlay each other, however, there was an offset due to chain stretch, which the ECU couldn't compensate enough for.
The chains were last changed 50k miles ago, but maybe the older revision of chains were fitted.
The newer version are 'a no stretch type', lets hope.
Well, i fancied having a go at helping out to swap out my timing chains at my local indie.
Do not be fooled that this is a 5 minute or driveway job, it is involved and requires specialist tooling.
Audi recommend that the main parts to be changed are..2 chains, VVT adjusters,intermediate sprockets, guides, tensioners, seals and stretch bolts for the DMF. On this DIY I have changed out the camshaft oil manifold assembly but I will not be including it.
As my TT doesn't have the inlet plenum, thats one less item to remove.
Coilpacks and harness swung out of the way, plugs removed.
All liquids drained out ie engine oil, gearbox oil and engine cooling water & charge cooler water.
A number of hoses disconnected from the block and DSG.
Lots of other stuff removed and loosening up the front sub-frame..
the above has been done to get this lump out..
DMF off..
which leaves me looking at this..
There are 2 covers that need to come off, which will expose the chains themselves..jumped the gun and cleaned the cover on the right..
Chains exposed..
Make sure the engine is at TDC by hand cranking the engine..
Intermediate sprocket markings for TDC..
VVT adjuster setup for TDC..
Insert camshaft locking plates once TDC has been set..1 per camshaft..
Remove tensioners to create chain slack.
Remove guides.
Remove intermediate sprockets so lower chain can be replaced.
Remove upper chain.
Install new lower chain and intermediate sprocket at the same time, align timing marks whilst tightening fixing bolt.
Install lower guide and tensioner.
Install upper timing chain and front guide ensuring slack is at the bulkhead.
Ensure copper links are as per pics before inserting hydraulic tensioner.
Rotate crank 4 times to check timing is still TDC.
Put all covers back on and rebuild ready for start.
I have allot more detailed photos and information, but this is the general thing to do.
TT is now running without codes.
Autograph are now setting up the DSG.
Steve
This is proved by hooking an oscilloscope up to the camshaft position sensors.
The square wave readings should overlay each other, however, there was an offset due to chain stretch, which the ECU couldn't compensate enough for.
The chains were last changed 50k miles ago, but maybe the older revision of chains were fitted.
The newer version are 'a no stretch type', lets hope.
Well, i fancied having a go at helping out to swap out my timing chains at my local indie.
Do not be fooled that this is a 5 minute or driveway job, it is involved and requires specialist tooling.
Audi recommend that the main parts to be changed are..2 chains, VVT adjusters,intermediate sprockets, guides, tensioners, seals and stretch bolts for the DMF. On this DIY I have changed out the camshaft oil manifold assembly but I will not be including it.
As my TT doesn't have the inlet plenum, thats one less item to remove.
Coilpacks and harness swung out of the way, plugs removed.
All liquids drained out ie engine oil, gearbox oil and engine cooling water & charge cooler water.
A number of hoses disconnected from the block and DSG.
Lots of other stuff removed and loosening up the front sub-frame..
the above has been done to get this lump out..
DMF off..
which leaves me looking at this..
There are 2 covers that need to come off, which will expose the chains themselves..jumped the gun and cleaned the cover on the right..
Chains exposed..
Make sure the engine is at TDC by hand cranking the engine..
Intermediate sprocket markings for TDC..
VVT adjuster setup for TDC..
Insert camshaft locking plates once TDC has been set..1 per camshaft..
Remove tensioners to create chain slack.
Remove guides.
Remove intermediate sprockets so lower chain can be replaced.
Remove upper chain.
Install new lower chain and intermediate sprocket at the same time, align timing marks whilst tightening fixing bolt.
Install lower guide and tensioner.
Install upper timing chain and front guide ensuring slack is at the bulkhead.
Ensure copper links are as per pics before inserting hydraulic tensioner.
Rotate crank 4 times to check timing is still TDC.
Put all covers back on and rebuild ready for start.
I have allot more detailed photos and information, but this is the general thing to do.
TT is now running without codes.
Autograph are now setting up the DSG.
Steve
Went to Lxembourg for a trip out with the TT crowd and had a fantastic run out and now back in Aberdeen.
2000 miles in 5 days and half a litre of oil.
Anyway, took a few pics tonight to prove she is not at the garage.. :P
Was running 10psi for the tunnel runs (350 BHP) so the screamer pipe came alive but I'm now on 20+
Steve
2000 miles in 5 days and half a litre of oil.
Anyway, took a few pics tonight to prove she is not at the garage.. :P
Was running 10psi for the tunnel runs (350 BHP) so the screamer pipe came alive but I'm now on 20+
Steve
Edited by V6RUL on Friday 17th May 19:35
d!
geeks said:
Wow just read this start to finish, I love TT's and now you have me looking at Autotrader, keep it up!
Cheers, You wont find too many modified tiTTies in the UK, possibly 5 but they would be 1.8ers.The switches are for HPFP, fan override, custom lighting & exhaust flap.
Im nearly finished messing now, as its time to enjoy her more of the time but probably put her away for winters.
Steve
Very impressive build, I'm researching if the dsg box Maybe a potential upgrade for my noble which is running a capped 580ish ftlb and 700bhp.... Seems you have a similar engine with similar power, how does it cope? Realistically could it take 650-700ftlb and run at a strip? Could it be programmed to cope with revs to 8k?
I've taken my for box as far as it can realistically go and even though I've capped torque And power I'm just waiting for it to break... I also want anti lag and launch control etc
I've taken my for box as far as it can realistically go and even though I've capped torque And power I'm just waiting for it to break... I also want anti lag and launch control etc
Ive decided to go a bit more stealth on the switches and replaced them with a more conventional item..
They can be wired to illuminate on being pressed or released..
I would consider a newer type bod as the DSG has known issues and may let you down if your after longevity.
Ive exceeded the limits of the box at the moment and require additional software which Unitronic are hopefully going to sort me out with soon.
The newer S-Tronic dry clutch boxes as found in the TTRS seem to be performing well.
HPA offer clutch pack upgrades on the DSG boxes, to hold more torque, but it is a costly change.
You will need some sort of custom software to allow the DSG to input some parameters like speed and load.
Steve
They can be wired to illuminate on being pressed or released..
I would consider a newer type bod as the DSG has known issues and may let you down if your after longevity.
Ive exceeded the limits of the box at the moment and require additional software which Unitronic are hopefully going to sort me out with soon.
The newer S-Tronic dry clutch boxes as found in the TTRS seem to be performing well.
HPA offer clutch pack upgrades on the DSG boxes, to hold more torque, but it is a costly change.
You will need some sort of custom software to allow the DSG to input some parameters like speed and load.
Steve
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