My MK1 3.2 TT Turbo
Discussion
Ive had some replacement sills lying around and decided to get them fitted today.
The OEM ones had a few dents and the waxoil underseal on, which, when i am getting it wrapped in a few weeks won't look good. I got the new sills off a forum member for a decent price..
A few more things happening next week, whilst im offshore.
Steve
The OEM ones had a few dents and the waxoil underseal on, which, when i am getting it wrapped in a few weeks won't look good. I got the new sills off a forum member for a decent price..
A few more things happening next week, whilst im offshore.
Steve
This is how she used to look on the front with OEM bumper..
I split the headlights and colour coded them moro blue.
I also have clear corners fitted.
This is how she currently looks..
This aftermarket bumper allows more air flow with the larger grilles.
In 2 weeks she will be fitted with this Rieger bumper as it will be a better fit as show season is coming round..it will be painted moro prior to wrapping..
Steve
I split the headlights and colour coded them moro blue.
I also have clear corners fitted.
This is how she currently looks..
This aftermarket bumper allows more air flow with the larger grilles.
In 2 weeks she will be fitted with this Rieger bumper as it will be a better fit as show season is coming round..it will be painted moro prior to wrapping..
Steve
Edited by V6RUL on Tuesday 27th November 15:40
Decided it was time to fit my new roof rails and to do a little how to..
New trims from Audi..
Split the pack to see one of the kits..
The rubbers are sided and should only be fitted one way.
Its a good idea to use a little soapy water as these suckers don't go on easy.
An extra set of hands would be quicker, start at one end and slide the rubber all the way along then inspect to ensure the rubbers are correctly in the track..
Rubbers installed..
There is vinyl sticky tape which protects the screw hole from metal on metal.
Time to build the access hatch up. It doesn't matter which door goes on which frame.
The door sits on the frame and a pin goes through the locating holes to hold them in place..
Once built up, there is RR [rear] and FR [front] stamped into the door frame, this identifies which door assembly goes where and they will not fit if it is mixed up. The assembly clips into the rail once you've got the clip the right way round..
Three rubber standoffs can be clipped in once the old assembly comes off the car and you can copy where and which way round they go..
To remove the old trims..
Open the boot and remove the plastic cover [finger in the hole and prise out from the bottom]..
This will reveal 1 Torx screw holding the rail in place..
Remove this screw and prize the rail out [just lift the rail an inch at the back and slowly ease the rail up until the front is freed and then slide the whole assembly away]
Clean and dry the exposed channel.
Install is the reverse of the removal but ensure to use soapy water when installing the new rail as the rubbers will be tight.
Apply lots of pressure evenly to ensure the rail is sitting flush..
Ok guys, the test fit was yesterday and here is what they look like now..satin black to match the grille
Steve
New trims from Audi..
Split the pack to see one of the kits..
The rubbers are sided and should only be fitted one way.
Its a good idea to use a little soapy water as these suckers don't go on easy.
An extra set of hands would be quicker, start at one end and slide the rubber all the way along then inspect to ensure the rubbers are correctly in the track..
Rubbers installed..
There is vinyl sticky tape which protects the screw hole from metal on metal.
Time to build the access hatch up. It doesn't matter which door goes on which frame.
The door sits on the frame and a pin goes through the locating holes to hold them in place..
Once built up, there is RR [rear] and FR [front] stamped into the door frame, this identifies which door assembly goes where and they will not fit if it is mixed up. The assembly clips into the rail once you've got the clip the right way round..
Three rubber standoffs can be clipped in once the old assembly comes off the car and you can copy where and which way round they go..
To remove the old trims..
Open the boot and remove the plastic cover [finger in the hole and prise out from the bottom]..
This will reveal 1 Torx screw holding the rail in place..
Remove this screw and prize the rail out [just lift the rail an inch at the back and slowly ease the rail up until the front is freed and then slide the whole assembly away]
Clean and dry the exposed channel.
Install is the reverse of the removal but ensure to use soapy water when installing the new rail as the rubbers will be tight.
Apply lots of pressure evenly to ensure the rail is sitting flush..
Ok guys, the test fit was yesterday and here is what they look like now..satin black to match the grille
Steve
There are a few boosted R32s around but peeps seem to leave the V6 TT alone, not me.
Unfortunately the TT looks fast when stood still, so peeps expect it to be a sports car anyway, so my aim was to not dissappoint.
This is my daily and is quite docile due to the DSG, untill i squeeze the throttle, then the gates of hell start to open and there is very little that will be tailgating me.
Steve
Unfortunately the TT looks fast when stood still, so peeps expect it to be a sports car anyway, so my aim was to not dissappoint.
This is my daily and is quite docile due to the DSG, untill i squeeze the throttle, then the gates of hell start to open and there is very little that will be tailgating me.
Steve
Im not really into the super stealth look as i want some semblance of an OEM look.
I want a kinda MK1.5 version and with the added knowledge that it is a Q underneath.
There are a few changes afoot as im going offshore for work today and the indie will be installing
a few additional items.
I will post up when i get info and pics back.
Steve
I want a kinda MK1.5 version and with the added knowledge that it is a Q underneath.
There are a few changes afoot as im going offshore for work today and the indie will be installing
a few additional items.
I will post up when i get info and pics back.
Steve
To be honest you wont really hear the screamer pipe as the WG will only open at over boost, but i will be tuning the WG/turbo to give me a more linear torque curve, which will mean the WG will be partially open at certain parts of the rev range as the EBC is reasonably inteligent.
When it opens, it really does bark.
This bumper is ABS plastic and fits alot better than the previous one which was FG and very rigid.
I was going to reuse the grille but the Rieger takes the larger grille, fortunately Audi had this one in stock, but it is a bit blngy.
The Schmidts were going to have Satin black centres but im now changing the order to powder coated black gloss.
As for cost..she is obv not for sale, but there will always be a number that will swing a deal.
Just depends whether the 2 numbers are close enough together to swing the deal.
Steve
When it opens, it really does bark.
This bumper is ABS plastic and fits alot better than the previous one which was FG and very rigid.
I was going to reuse the grille but the Rieger takes the larger grille, fortunately Audi had this one in stock, but it is a bit blngy.
The Schmidts were going to have Satin black centres but im now changing the order to powder coated black gloss.
As for cost..she is obv not for sale, but there will always be a number that will swing a deal.
Just depends whether the 2 numbers are close enough together to swing the deal.
Steve
Wasn't overkeen on the shinny WG discharge so sprayed it black with some heat resistant paint..
I also popped down to my friends at Awesome to get the transmission checked out.
Put your volume up..
http://youtu.be/TaPYwROHRto
http://youtu.be/rQ8Yfnn6E3I
Shown below is the roller speeds, you can see how the rear roller tapers off at 40+
Steve
I also popped down to my friends at Awesome to get the transmission checked out.
Put your volume up..
http://youtu.be/TaPYwROHRto
http://youtu.be/rQ8Yfnn6E3I
Shown below is the roller speeds, you can see how the rear roller tapers off at 40+
Steve
Edited by V6RUL on Friday 17th February 17:16
I thought the blue was more proactive than OEM and gives more power quicker and deactivates under braking/handbrake.
The orange keeps a more permanent 50/50 power split even under braking.
The new range of HPA controller is similar to orange but drops power to the rear whilst at crawling speeds.
I stand to be corrected.
Steve
The orange keeps a more permanent 50/50 power split even under braking.
The new range of HPA controller is similar to orange but drops power to the rear whilst at crawling speeds.
I stand to be corrected.
Steve
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