500+bhp Mk3 Fiesta Project

[cossy400]

Amazing job as always.

So is the interior done now?

If so whats next?

Also hows the M3 coming on?

[mwstewart]

Thanks chaps.

There are one or two things left to do in the interior, but it is nearly complete:
- Adjust handbrake mechanism and fit gaiter
- Tap Puma gearknob to suit Focus gear stick thread pitch, then fit gear gaiter and reverse release mechanism
- Finish stereo installation in boot
- Wire up battery in boot

Once the above is complete I will move on to fuel system and brake plumbing.

The M3 is kind of on hold as I'm looking out for a really low mileage example. There is one at Hexagon that's caught my eye so mines on hold whilst I source another, then I'll put them next to each other and transfer anything I want to keep.

[Petrol_fumes]

If you come up to Hexagon Mark give me a shout... I live about 5 doors down from them - would be good to catch up/go for a spin

tom

[mwstewart]

Petrol_fumes said:

If you come up to Hexagon Mark give me a shout... I live about 5 doors down from them - would be good to catch up/go for a spin

tom

Excellent, thanks Tom - will do! I'd love to see your car(s).

[KillerHERTZ]

Fantastic!

Only just seen this thread, and I thought your W209 work was good! this is another level all together

[mwstewart]

KillerHERTZ said:

Fantastic!

Only just seen this thread, and I thought your W209 work was good! this is another level all together

Thank you

[mwstewart]

The crank has arrived! I ordered it last Thursday so this is timely service from I.K.Engineering.


It is a 95mm stroke Zetec crank machined from billet EN40B, which has been tested in engines to 10,000rpm - not that I'll be going above 8,500rpm. The big ends are sized for Honda bearings and my new rods will be designed to suit. The benefits of this crank for my application are the long stoke/additional capacity i.e. more torque lower in the rev range, and peace of mind from increased strength when operating with elevated cylinder pressures.

The engine will become more under-square than standard the trade off of which is greater piston ring friction due to increased rod angle, but with the advances in materials these days that's not such an issue - especially not for my ultra-hard CGI block. A great example is BMW's S54 M3 engine which is also under-square but will happily rev rev to 8,000rpm and cover 200k hard miles no problem if serviced correctly.

I'm dropping it off to my engine builder, Ian, after dinner.

[Greg_D]

are all the parts there to get the engine built, what's the plan with it? Timescales?

[mwstewart]

Greg_D said:

are all the parts there to get the engine built, what's the plan with it? Timescales?

To build the long block, yes, they are. In addition I require a Turbo, ECU, and exhaust manifold.

[Mouse1903]

This car is OEM++!

[rohrl]

mwstewart said:

Greg_D said:

are all the parts there to get the engine built, what's the plan with it? Timescales?

To build the long block, yes, they are. In addition I require a Turbo, ECU, and exhaust manifold.

A Holset off a digger, eBay Megasquirt kit and a cut n'shut cast iron log manifold should see you finished in a weekend.

[mwstewart]

Fuel Tank
To recap, this is the approach I'm taking with the petrol tank and exhaust.


Before I start either modifying a new Fiesta tank or creating a new one from scratch, I decided to see if anything standard would do the job. I tracked down an Escort RS2000 4x4 petrol tank knowing that a) it had a central recess (prop shaft and exhaust), and b) had a similar floor pan to the Fiesta.



Here's the tank next to a Fiesta tank. I now want to buy a section of Fiesta floor pan from a scrap car, so I can mock this up on the unit floor. If anyone can help and deliver the section of shell, please give me a shout.


Hi Fi
I have used an E39 5 series fuse box in the boot, and I had all the terminals re-plated to neaten them up.


I rebuilt the fuse box today, added the mega fuses, and added three power feeds for the Sinfoni amplifiers.


I have purchased the final Sinfoni amplifier, which is a 45.2x that will be used to power the small rear speakers either side of the parcel shelf.


I ordered some heavy duty velcro to stick on the bottom of each amplifier, to secure it to the boot floor carpet. I'm taking this approach so everything can be removed quite easily should that be required at some point.


Here's where I got done today. Amps mounted and power & ground wiring completed.

[Galliano]

Truely stunning work as usual. I really do wish I had the time, patience and money for such a build. One day huh?

Are you going to be building a false floor to cover the amps whilst the car is in use - to allow the carry of items in the boot and tidy up the clean look? I feel with everything else in the car having, and being in, its own place, the amps (as beautifully crafted as they are) make the boot look untidy somewhat.

[mwstewart]

Galliano said:

Truely stunning work as usual. I really do wish I had the time, patience and money for such a build. One day huh?

Are you going to be building a false floor to cover the amps whilst the car is in use - to allow the carry of items in the boot and tidy up the clean look? I feel with everything else in the car having, and being in, its own place, the amps (as beautifully crafted as they are) make the boot look untidy somewhat.

Thank you. Yes, my Dad made one for me last year. There are some photos a few pages back in the build thread.

[richtea78]

I don't want to sound like a dick because this is such a work of art but sticking the amps down with Velcro doesn't seem up to the standard of the rest of the car.

[Inertiatic]

richtea78 said:

I don't want to sound like a dick because this is such a work of art but sticking the amps down with Velcro doesn't seem up to the standard of the rest of the car.

Its a good practical solution as they may need to be moved. Plus no drilling / unsightly bolts.

[The Nur]

Inertiatic said:

richtea78 said:

I don't want to sound like a dick because this is such a work of art but sticking the amps down with Velcro doesn't seem up to the standard of the rest of the car.

Its a good practical solution as they may need to be moved. Plus no drilling / unsightly bolts.

Yep, it works fairly well. I never had a problem when I had a bootful

[Galliano]

mwstewart said:

Thank you. Yes, my Dad made one for me last year. There are some photos a few pages back in the build thread.

• Pictures*

My mistake there MW, It has been a while since I last trawled through your whole thread..

[k-ink]

It will certainly make any thief's life much easier. Personally I prefer bolt all my kit down with security head screws. You can cover the whole boot floor in plywood which is stuck to the chassis with a bonding agent. Then ensure the screws are only deep enough to penetrate the wood layer. So your chassis remains blemish free. Then add another layer of carpet covered plywood over the top of the amps, protecting and hiding them. Again use more security screws, imho

ps

If you want to be flash add a hinged opening panel so you can flip it up to adjust the amp settings. If you do all the woodwork first, then stick the carpet on top, then cut the opening of the carpet panel using a scalpel. That way the trap door remains totally hidden. This is what I did. If you use slim ply it does not have to be too heavy at all.

Edited by k-ink on Sunday 26th January 17:30

[richtea78]

I'm not saying it doesn't work, it's just it's not as special as everything else. I can Velcro amps to a boot floor

It's kind of a disappointment that's all! I was expecting something much more technical