I've just bought some poverty Pork…
Discussion
A few questions (not in order of priority!)
1. Is this extended cow?
2. Have an intermittent problem with the ABS light staying on. The seller did mention this to me, however, it was a non-issue during the test drive or picking it up and only materialised when I started using it for commuting. Only happens on a cold start. If you start it, turn it off and start it again, the ABS light behaves as normal. This happens most of the time, but not always. Any ideas?
3. Potential issue with the PAS pump. On full lock (only on full lock), such as whilst parking, there's a groan / whine which changes its pitch in tune with revs.
4. Thinking about overhauling the suspension later down the line, once I've tended to more urgent issues. What does the cognoscenti suggest to do? The car is on 113k and doesn't feel as tight as I'd imagine a Coxster (
) to be. At a minimum, I'm thinking coffin arms, 'tuning fork' control arms and track rods. Although at its current mileage, dampers and springs, maybe with some other things. It was originally specced with 18" Turbo alloys and whilst I have considered downsizing to 17", I want to keep the originality. It is rather firm in what is stock configuration and I'm not particularly interested in lowering it much if at all, or a firmer ride. Should I go for stock (Bilstein B4?) dampers all round and stock replacement springs? What about stock dampers with mild lowering springs (There are some H&R -10mm springs being advertised on Euro Car Parts as 'M030 spec'). For me, the car is more of a cruiser, B-road blaster rather than something to be used on track. I want something relatively compliant, but good enough to have some fun with.
5. I have wet (or fairly damp, to not be so dramatic) carpets behind the driver's seat. The roof mechanism played up earlier in its life and has been attended to, however it seems the pushrod mechanism rupture the 'drip tray' under the clamshell. This has been replaced, but the carpet is still wet. Perhaps it hasn't dried out properly. Any suggestions as to the best way of drying it out? I will also be checking the drain holes and to my knowledge, there isn't water ingress through the doors.
I am taking the car to be inspected by Cath Burrows in Standish (Wigan) next week as she's just off J27 on the M6 which is where I get off on the commute to / from work. Anyone used her before?
Despite my fault and to-do list growing on what seems a daily basis, and this being my only car till I get the daily back on the road, it's been as good as gold on my 33 mile commute each way to work for the past two weeks and more frugal than I thought. There is a small sense of Russian roulette during each journey, but I'm happy
1. Is this extended cow?
2. Have an intermittent problem with the ABS light staying on. The seller did mention this to me, however, it was a non-issue during the test drive or picking it up and only materialised when I started using it for commuting. Only happens on a cold start. If you start it, turn it off and start it again, the ABS light behaves as normal. This happens most of the time, but not always. Any ideas?
3. Potential issue with the PAS pump. On full lock (only on full lock), such as whilst parking, there's a groan / whine which changes its pitch in tune with revs.
4. Thinking about overhauling the suspension later down the line, once I've tended to more urgent issues. What does the cognoscenti suggest to do? The car is on 113k and doesn't feel as tight as I'd imagine a Coxster (
) to be. At a minimum, I'm thinking coffin arms, 'tuning fork' control arms and track rods. Although at its current mileage, dampers and springs, maybe with some other things. It was originally specced with 18" Turbo alloys and whilst I have considered downsizing to 17", I want to keep the originality. It is rather firm in what is stock configuration and I'm not particularly interested in lowering it much if at all, or a firmer ride. Should I go for stock (Bilstein B4?) dampers all round and stock replacement springs? What about stock dampers with mild lowering springs (There are some H&R -10mm springs being advertised on Euro Car Parts as 'M030 spec'). For me, the car is more of a cruiser, B-road blaster rather than something to be used on track. I want something relatively compliant, but good enough to have some fun with.5. I have wet (or fairly damp, to not be so dramatic) carpets behind the driver's seat. The roof mechanism played up earlier in its life and has been attended to, however it seems the pushrod mechanism rupture the 'drip tray' under the clamshell. This has been replaced, but the carpet is still wet. Perhaps it hasn't dried out properly. Any suggestions as to the best way of drying it out? I will also be checking the drain holes and to my knowledge, there isn't water ingress through the doors.
I am taking the car to be inspected by Cath Burrows in Standish (Wigan) next week as she's just off J27 on the M6 which is where I get off on the commute to / from work. Anyone used her before?
Despite my fault and to-do list growing on what seems a daily basis, and this being my only car till I get the daily back on the road, it's been as good as gold on my 33 mile commute each way to work for the past two weeks and more frugal than I thought. There is a small sense of Russian roulette during each journey, but I'm happy
Edited by Rosewood Red on Friday 14th October 18:42
1.Yes - you can see the seam on the door card.
3. Do you know if the suspension components are all original? I'd be surprised TBH at 113k miles. The arms get noisy when worn - coffin arm ball joints will creak and tuning forks knock. M030 is pretty firm, more so with 18" wheels I would guess, so Bilstein B4's might be a better (budget) bet.
Geometry is important - if it's not set up well the car can feel all over the place. That's where I'd start, by getting it checked out. (Cheaper than replacing loads of stuff, and you'll get a good look at the suspension, & also find out if the camber bolts are seized)
3. Do you know if the suspension components are all original? I'd be surprised TBH at 113k miles. The arms get noisy when worn - coffin arm ball joints will creak and tuning forks knock. M030 is pretty firm, more so with 18" wheels I would guess, so Bilstein B4's might be a better (budget) bet.
Geometry is important - if it's not set up well the car can feel all over the place. That's where I'd start, by getting it checked out. (Cheaper than replacing loads of stuff, and you'll get a good look at the suspension, & also find out if the camber bolts are seized)
3. Potential issue with the PAS pump:
Open the engine cover and check the PAS pulley and see if its making funny noise? Also try playing with the steering wheel while idle, if that funny groan changing noise or going away, PUMP about to go! (Mine gone this summer, it's not a fun event to be honest if you are in motorway
). It's not expensive part but if it goes while you are driving, since water pump is not working due to drive belt, you can easily overheat the engine.
-Here is an example, mine was making a very similar noise before its gone!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuKRNNbgsGc
If it goes while you are driving, you would probably get ABS and battery light immediately, steering becomes heavy and engine temperature will rise very quickly, so park somewhere immediately do not drive. -russian roulette indeed
Open the engine cover and check the PAS pulley and see if its making funny noise? Also try playing with the steering wheel while idle, if that funny groan changing noise or going away, PUMP about to go! (Mine gone this summer, it's not a fun event to be honest if you are in motorway
). It's not expensive part but if it goes while you are driving, since water pump is not working due to drive belt, you can easily overheat the engine.-Here is an example, mine was making a very similar noise before its gone!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuKRNNbgsGc
If it goes while you are driving, you would probably get ABS and battery light immediately, steering becomes heavy and engine temperature will rise very quickly, so park somewhere immediately do not drive. -russian roulette indeed
Edited by ooid on Friday 14th October 21:01
Funny, It's almost impossible to find any decent 986 below 10k in France! Probably much more appreciated?
http://www.lacentrale.fr/auto-occasion-annonce-302...
http://www.lacentrale.fr/auto-occasion-annonce-302...
Not sure whether this has posted up already or not,
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/p...
Low mileage but No detail in the ad, but whether a phone call I guess.
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/p...
Low mileage but No detail in the ad, but whether a phone call I guess.
andy97 said:
Not sure whether this has posted up already or not,
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/p...
Low mileage but No detail in the ad, but whether a phone call I guess.
+1http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/p...
Low mileage but No detail in the ad, but whether a phone call I guess.
Though add the price of a set of tyres and an aircon repair...
Just saw this on Facebook. 2000S only 3400 miles Guards red.
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicCarreras/posts/107...
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicCarreras/posts/107...
edh said:
3. Do you know if the suspension components are all original? I'd be surprised TBH at 113k miles. The arms get noisy when worn - coffin arm ball joints will creak and tuning forks knock. M030 is pretty firm, more so with 18" wheels I would guess, so Bilstein B4's might be a better (budget) bet.
Geometry is important - if it's not set up well the car can feel all over the place. That's where I'd start, by getting it checked out. (Cheaper than replacing loads of stuff, and you'll get a good look at the suspension, & also find out if the camber bolts are seized)
Thanks edh - Just been going through the service history - there are invoices for a couple of coffin arms (Meyle) and droplinks in Mar / Apr 2011, followed by geometry setup at 89k. The comprehensive Excel spreadsheet that has been kept updated during the car's life suggests these were for the front axle. No mention of tuning forks / track control arms though. I'm presuming rears are still original. Do these tend to last longer than fronts?Geometry is important - if it's not set up well the car can feel all over the place. That's where I'd start, by getting it checked out. (Cheaper than replacing loads of stuff, and you'll get a good look at the suspension, & also find out if the camber bolts are seized)
There's also an invoice for a (single - FFS...
) droplink in 2010.Geometry definitely needs doing soon as it pulls slightly to the left. Had my trusted local independent put it on the ramps yesterday and give it a once over and he mentioned that everything is in good fettle, bar the RARB bushes. Will also be getting Cath to look at it on Tuesday and I'm hoping she'll be able to shed some light on the ABS issue.
Regardless, is it worth perhaps doing springs and dampers at 113k, regardless, or am I throwing money away that could be better used (no history of water pump and god knows when the brake fluid was last changed)? Any alternatives to B4s (your wording above doesn't suggest endorsement
)and can anyone suggest OEM springs that may be cheaper than OE items?ooid said:
3. Potential issue with the PAS pump:
Open the engine cover and check the PAS pulley and see if its making funny noise? Also try playing with the steering wheel while idle, if that funny groan changing noise or going away, PUMP about to go! (Mine gone this summer, it's not a fun event to be honest if you are in motorway). It's not expensive part but if it goes while you are driving, since water pump is not working due to drive belt, you can easily overheat the engine.
...
Open the engine cover and check the PAS pulley and see if its making funny noise? Also try playing with the steering wheel while idle, if that funny groan changing noise or going away, PUMP about to go! (Mine gone this summer, it's not a fun event to be honest if you are in motorway
). It's not expensive part but if it goes while you are driving, since water pump is not working due to drive belt, you can easily overheat the engine....
Mogul said:
The first thing I would check would be the PAS fluid level. A good excuse to remove the cover and have a look at the engine from above!
Thank you both for the above. Will investigate further in the coming week. Also, drain holes seem fine when I checked yesterday. Rear bulkhead carpet is soaked and the carpet behind the driver's seat isn't much better. Thankfuly the NS is fine, especially with the electronics underneath the passenger seat!
Edited by Rosewood Red on Sunday 16th October 18:54
Rosewood Red said:
Thank you both for the above. Will investigate further in the coming week.
Also, drain holes seem fine when I checked yesterday. Rear bulkhead carpet is soaked and the carpet behind the driver's seat isn't much better. Thankfuly the NS is fine, especially with the electronics underneath the passenger seat!
Towards the end of its tenure with me, my 986 leaked and I actually suspected door skin in the end - apparently can happen. Regarding the drip trays, you may have a blockage as the drains are quite narrow - do the old "half a pint" trick and see if it comes out the bottom? Also, drain holes seem fine when I checked yesterday. Rear bulkhead carpet is soaked and the carpet behind the driver's seat isn't much better. Thankfuly the NS is fine, especially with the electronics underneath the passenger seat!
Edited by Rosewood Red on Sunday 16th October 18:54
Also, I've heard the carpets take ages to dry because of the sound deadening soaking up the water.
Regarding your suspension questions, all I can add is an endorsement for Meyle coffin arms. There's quite a lot of stuff that affects the suspension/steering and fresher components are always better than old ones! I'd be tempted in your position to keep the firmness of the M030 but replace everything - coffins, tuning forks, dampers, mounts, drop links, ARB bushes - to get some as-new compliance. Geometry and even tyre condition/pressure is also a big factor - my left front got a slow puncture and it was an absolute pig to drive.
Hi Iain, any news regarding the silver / tereacotta 2.5 in Surrey?
Did the trick with a mug of water yesterday and the drain holes seem fine - you probably missed my post on the previous page, but earlier in its life, the roof mechanism packed up and the pushrod on the driver's side ruptured the drip tray, which has since been replaced, however was the original source of the water ingress. Door seems water tight, although I will test this more thoroughly to confirm. But I suspect all is now fine and it's just a matter of drying or replacing the carpet.
M030 is a no go for me - have 18" Turbos and the ride is firm enough with the stock (non M030) suspension. And I'm not exactly an old git at 28 Was just trying to figure out what to go for that was OEM spec without having to pay OE tax!
Did the trick with a mug of water yesterday and the drain holes seem fine - you probably missed my post on the previous page, but earlier in its life, the roof mechanism packed up and the pushrod on the driver's side ruptured the drip tray, which has since been replaced, however was the original source of the water ingress. Door seems water tight, although I will test this more thoroughly to confirm. But I suspect all is now fine and it's just a matter of drying or replacing the carpet.
M030 is a no go for me - have 18" Turbos and the ride is firm enough with the stock (non M030) suspension. And I'm not exactly an old git at 28
Was just trying to figure out what to go for that was OEM spec without having to pay OE tax!Edited by Rosewood Red on Sunday 16th October 20:09
Edited by Rosewood Red on Sunday 16th October 20:10
If the springs and dampers are functional then I would replace all the other arms and bushes first. It's these that give the noises and wayward handling. The dampers will make a big difference too. Depending how deep your wallet is you could just go to town and do the entire suspension.
I finally bought one. A 2000 (W) Boxster S in Viola with black leather!
The drive back from Lincoln was a memory i will never forget. 189 miles of bliss. No pictures yet, she is tucked up in my garage, but here is a library pic to give you an idea of colour.
My car needs some minor tidying - but nothing serious. Looking forward to taxing and insuring at the end of the month.
The drive back from Lincoln was a memory i will never forget. 189 miles of bliss. No pictures yet, she is tucked up in my garage, but here is a library pic to give you an idea of colour.
My car needs some minor tidying - but nothing serious. Looking forward to taxing and insuring at the end of the month.
Rosewood Red said:
Regardless, is it worth perhaps doing springs and dampers at 113k, regardless, or am I throwing money away that could be better used (no history of water pump and god knows when the brake fluid was last changed)? Any alternatives to B4s (your wording above doesn't suggest endorsement )and can anyone suggest OEM springs that may be cheaper than OE items?
No aspersions cast on Bilstein - when I say "budget" I mean not KW, Ohlins, Bilstein PSS etc... )and can anyone suggest OEM springs that may be cheaper than OE items?AFAIK the B4's are twin tube dampers not monotube - need to go to B6's for that.
H&R springs are an option I think?
Given there's a history of parts replacement, I'd wait for an informed opinion from someone who's looked over your car before committing a big wedge of cash to suspension work
Ray Singh said:
I finally bought one. A 2000 (W) Boxster S in Viola with black leather!
The drive back from Lincoln was a memory i will never forget. 189 miles of bliss. No pictures yet, she is tucked up in my garage, but here is a library pic to give you an idea of colour.
My car needs some minor tidying - but nothing serious. Looking forward to taxing and insuring at the end of the month.
Nice! I see you didn't have to wait to long to find one..The drive back from Lincoln was a memory i will never forget. 189 miles of bliss. No pictures yet, she is tucked up in my garage, but here is a library pic to give you an idea of colour.
My car needs some minor tidying - but nothing serious. Looking forward to taxing and insuring at the end of the month.
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