I've just bought some poverty Pork…

[bgunn]

Rosewood Red said:

No aspersions towards lack of AC and / or centre console. I just feel £5k is top end money for a 2.5 regardless of whether those options were ticked or not. For £7k, I'd be looking at other options...

For those that have replaced the coffin arms and tuning forks on the front, did you reuse the original nuts and bolts?

Both coffin arms were replaced about 30k miles ago. The NSF was then replaced again circa 4k ago. The OSF coffin arm has a worn ball joint and the NSF tuning fork is knocking. Don't like mismatched components, so going the whole hog and replacing both front coffin arms, tuning forks and track rods with Meyle / TRW items.

Just unsure if I need new nuts / bolts or if the current ones are likely to be seized. Similar with the eccentric bolts on the rear as I'll be getting a full geometry setup. Can't see evidence of the rear axle having had parts replaced over the 114k miles the car has done, but all components seem in good condition.

Already spent nearly £400 on these parts; Nuts and bolts don't seem to be particularly cheap...

Edited by Rosewood Red on Wednesday 16th November 12:05

Technically, you're supposed to replace the bolts and nuts at each end of the 'tuning fork'.

[Rosewood Red]

So, 7, 11 and 12 below?




What about 4 and 5? Don't think 9 needs to come off and 22 is included with the coffin arms.

Thanks by the way, much appreciated

Edit: typed that whilst you were replying, cmoose. And on my phone, which doesn't help!

[edh]

1. 4 is the tricky blighter and could well be seized. Worth checking out in advance of doing the job just in case..

[Diesel Meister]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Yup, such is life!

Agreed that at sub-£15k a Cayman represents stunning value, even compared to a really minty 986 S.

I think I could live with 245bhp, seeing as the Slowlo has about 80bhp All about power to weight though. But I can't lie - as the Aw11 is packing at least 300bhp and weighs less than a Cayman (I'd expect), I'd probably be happier with a Cayman S as the sole chariot, which presumably means ponying up thirty large if I want to avoid the bork?

My aim is between 220-250bhp per ton in a package that aces the chassis / primary controls / general feel and feedback areas of the qualitative Venn diagram. Robustness and affordability would also be nice!

[Diesel Meister]

olly22n said:

I, like moose, run a gen 1 S as an only car.

It's st as suitcases, but other than that - pretty good.

cmoose - ditto

Just have to find the dosh...

[ooid]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Now looking at their old stock, this beauty makes me cry

http://www.ashgood.co.uk/product/443/sold

A proper miss out, not poverty spec but my fav. undercover-blue

[Diesel Meister]

ooid said:

Now looking at their old stock, this beauty makes me cry

http://www.ashgood.co.uk/product/443/sold

A proper miss out, not poverty spec but my fav. undercover-blue

[Rosewood Red]

Anyone else have a knackered accelerator pedal? Not sure if this was previously an issue that I didn't pick up on, but I noticed today that there's significant play at the "hinged" portion on the floor that causes side-to-side movement with your foot on it. Feels quite disconcerting, but doesn't look like it's going to fall apart.

Any homebrew fixes or do I need a new pedal? 2.7, so drive by wire.

Thanks in advance

[cjcor]

Is the consensus view that if one can find a sub 100k, manual 996 coupe, with documented service history under 10k (with a clutch change thrown in), that represents very good value for money?

[griffter]

I would say so, although some will be in surprisingly poor condition, and of course it could easily need £3-4K spending, depending on what you're prepared to put up with. Potential engine issues aside too, although a 3.4 is about as good a bet as any other 15 year old performance car engine at that mileage.

[snotrag]

Rosewood Red said:

Anyone else have a knackered accelerator pedal? Not sure if this was previously an issue that I didn't pick up on, but I noticed today that there's significant play at the "hinged" portion on the floor that causes side-to-side movement with your foot on it. Feels quite disconcerting, but doesn't look like it's going to fall apart.

Any homebrew fixes or do I need a new pedal? 2.7, so drive by wire.

Thanks in advance

Yes. They are ste. I posted the same when I got mine a few months back. Mine had a bit of play but was really 'sticky' and awful.

Note that even though the my2000 on are drive by wire - its the same throttle pedal. Theres a cable that comes out of the back and runs up the dash board, and then the potentiometer is tucked up under the dash.

So there's a regular cable AND a DBW system.

get upside down in your feotwell and take it out, grease it up, lube the cable etc. Made an improvement on mine. If its totally shot then one from a breakers would swap in.

[Rosewood Red]

Thanks for that. Yes, I noticed the setup last night when I was investigating the issue. Saw the cable which confused me initially until I saw it went to the potentiometer. I was under the assumption that the DBW and cable throttle cars would have different pedals (I know the 2.5 has some funky setup if fitted with cruise) - thanks for confirming otherwise.

Doesn't seem sticky, just loose at the hinge. Will take it apart and investigate. Unless I can come up with some way of fixing this myself, I'll be off to the breakers to locate a spare.

[Rosewood Red]

It's gone quiet in here. Bueller, Bueller...

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...

Reservations

• Rear lights
• Brembo caliper covers
• Headlamp 'trangles'
• Questionable (Federal)tyres
• No stereo

Part service history, but perhaps worth a punt at £2,800 with a long MOT and offers invited? Needs a good looking at, but potential bargain if you can get a few hundred off the asking price.

MOT history suggests that on the whole, it hasn't been neglected. Advisories suggest front coffin arm(s) and brakes.

[gemini]

Tempting!

[mini95]

Amazing how cheap they are getting, WBAC offer for my 2.5 stands at £2.5k, surely they can't go much lower!. I spent a bit of time looking at a Gen 2 Cayman for £22.5k which seemed quite good value for a 2.7 at a dealer but just can see it is worth me spending £20k extra in something I use as a toy in the summer!

[NJH]

Best value at that level is 987 Gen 2 boxster S. Seem up dipping under £20k now but the Cayman version is still another £5k, quite a lot of money for a roof.

[ATM]

Boxster 3.2 987 S
185,000 miles
FULL SERVICE HISTORY

£8,495

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...

[mini95]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Mine has 76k on it with a folder full of history, and is a Jan 1998 registered car so it may start to climb. It is hardly worth selling really, so I will just keep it and service it and do some miles each summer. I have had it for over 10 yrs now.

I think early Boxsters are a bargain.

[Luke.]

ATM said:

Boxster 3.2 987 S
185,000 miles
FULL SERVICE HISTORY

£8,495

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...

Seems pricey to me.

[ooid]

mini95 said:

Mine has 76k on it with a folder full of history, and is a Jan 1998 registered car so it may start to climb. It is hardly worth selling really, so I will just keep it and service it and do some miles each summer. I have had it for over 10 yrs now.

I think early Boxsters are a bargain.

I think there are still many of them around, thats why. I've looked at two early 2.5 models 5 years ago, their miles were too high so went for 2.7 instead but those two are still on the road today, over 100k.