I've just bought some poverty Pork…

[edc]

Don't worry too much about a "classic" policy. My Boxster is insured under a specialist modified policy and I had my C55 on a mirrored no claims policy.

[Escy]

I don't see how the engine re-build could be seen as a negative, especially it's if done 5k since. Fair enough if it was freshly done and he's getting rid straight away. If it was a negative, he didn't need to even mention it, it's not like anyone would know.

As for DIY, if you know how to put an engine together it doesn't really if it's Peugeot or Porsche in my opinion.

[ATM]

How reliable is the odo reading on an early 996. As in how easy is it to adjust. Simple laptop job or a bit more specialist?

[Rosewood Red]

edc said:

Don't worry too much about a "classic" policy. My Boxster is insured under a specialist modified policy and I had my C55 on a mirrored no claims policy.

Would you mind sharing who you're insured with?

Got a decent(ish) price with NFU Mutual for the Box', but using the 9 years NCD I built up using the Polo, which is now insured on another policy without any NCD whatsover.

I am considering getting rid of the Polo for something with more fizz, but my lack of NCD is an issue. Only caveat is, my annual mileage is circa 30k, split 2:1 amongst two cars, which may limit me somewhat...

Edited by Rosewood Red on Tuesday 7th February 10:43

[LordHaveMurci]

Greenlight mirrored my NCD from the 996 (insured elsewhere) on my lightly modded Clio. Both cars are only on 5-6k annual mileage though.

[edc]

ATM said:

How reliable is the odo reading on an early 996. As in how easy is it to adjust. Simple laptop job or a bit more specialist?

You can adjust it by swapping out the dash pod

[edc]

Rosewood Red said:

edc said:

Don't worry too much about a "classic" policy. My Boxster is insured under a specialist modified policy and I had my C55 on a mirrored no claims policy.

Would you mind sharing who you're insured with?

Got a decent(ish) price with NFU Mutual for the Box', but using the 9 years NCD I built up using the Polo, which is now insured on another policy without any NCD whatsover.

I am considering getting rid of the Polo for something with more fizz, but my lack of NCD is an issue. Only caveat is, my annual mileage is circa 30k, split 2:1 amongst two cars, which may limit me somewhat...

Edited by Rosewood Red on Tuesday 7th February 10:43

Just call and ask your insurer if you are direct but otherwise use a broker. Mirrored no claims is bread and butter for them. I had it via Sky Insurance. I think though most of these mirrored no claims policies are designed for specialist/modified/performance cars as more recently some would quote for a new 1.0 Fiesta as well but the quote was not competitive plus most wouldn't cover a learner.

[ooid]

Escy said:

As for DIY, if you know how to put an engine together it doesn't really if it's Peugeot or Porsche in my opinion.

Easy for you probably!

It's really not to discourage any potential buyers/owners here. We have just seen several rebuilt or reconditioned cars that did not make it that long and just warning potential users here. Sloppy people everywhere, it could be independent, specialist or even OPC imho! I for myself, benefited a lot of the discussions and suggestions here over the years, whether they were too cautious or OTT.

[Diesel Meister]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

they vary from what I can tell. Mine is as follows (my AW11 MR2 with comprehensive cover, all mods declared, agreed value, clean licence; no idea of age restriction but assume 15-20+ years):

1. Must be a second (third/fourth etc.) car (i.e. you have insured a vehicle that is not on a classic policy)
2. Limited mileage (currently 3k p/a, which is plenty as the AW11 averages less than 1k annually for the last 3-4 years)
3. Must be garaged (and particularly when kept overnight within 1 mile of home unless at a garage for servicing / repairs)

Premium is £180 with 4 years no claims on the classic policy and 20 years overall. PM me if you want more deets.

Agreed re. Flux BTW - from good value to totally batst. I've even had them chuck a grand on a renewal despite no change in circumstances. Market forces my arse, frankly. For comparison, flux charged me £1k to insure the MR2 on a regular (non-classic) modified car policy (mileage of 10k, 15 years no claims at that point, parked on the street in N22).

[bgunn]

Escy said:

I don't see how the engine re-build could be seen as a negative, especially it's if done 5k since. Fair enough if it was freshly done and he's getting rid straight away. If it was a negative, he didn't need to even mention it, it's not like anyone would know.

As for DIY, if you know how to put an engine together it doesn't really if it's Peugeot or Porsche in my opinion.

I guess the thing about the M96 is you need a fair few specialist tools and a fair amount of nous to build it - being an avid DIYer myself, I agree with what you're saying - a good DIY is always going to be better than your common-or-garden commercial outfit, as someone building their own engine is more likely to walk away, leave it a few days, and then come back to it than a commercial 'rush' job.

If it's done 5k without incident, doesn't consume fluids, has good compression and drives well, then the job is good - engines are not mysterious machines and operate in a predictable way.. It's no worse than buying a completely unknown car that's done a number of miles, I'd say.

ATM: Good luck with the car! It's the right colour - IMO

Edited by bgunn on Tuesday 7th February 13:09

Edited by bgunn on Tuesday 7th February 13:10

[ATM]

bgunn said:

If it's done 5k without incident, doesn't consume fluids, has good compression and drives well, then the job is good - engines are not mysterious machines and operate in a predictable way.

Thanks B

This is the big unknown. Does it consume fluids. Is the compression shot. I'm having a drive later and I hope it is good.

[bgunn]

ATM said:

Thanks B

This is the big unknown. Does it consume fluids. Is the compression shot. I'm having a drive later and I hope it is good.

Check the condition of the oil and coolant - check the coolant pressure comes up nice and high (the hoses should be 'inflated' quite hard after a good run) and that the pressure holds for a decent time after stopping the engine as this will at least show the cooling system holds pressure. Oil - I'd guess it last had an oil change when the engine was rebuilt - 5k old oil should be a medium brown colour if the engine has been 'used' to any degree, but it should feel pretty clean and have good lubricity when rubbed between pressed finger and thumb. It should not smell burnt - if it does, I'd want to walk away.

Compression - hard to tell without measuring, but as a guide 'by ear' - check the general demeanour of the engine - does it idle smoothly when cold, does it idle smoothly and happily when hot. Does it start quickly and feel 'perky' - if you've driven more than one you'll have a benchmark. Check for any noises - you might get some gentle clacking from the cam chains (there's five after all, and being an early motor it'll have a roller IMS chain which is a bit noisier) when starting from stone cold but it should stop once the oil pressure comes up fully.

Above all, it should go well, it should really lift up its skirt above 4000 rpm and take off like a scalded cat above 5 in the lower gears.

Shame it's a bit of a schlep for me - I'd happily come and act as a second opinion and you could judge against mine (a 69k C2 of the same vintage)..

[Diesel Meister]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

This - great stuff.

Condition is always key for secondhand purchases but especially so in this case all you can do is look, listen and feel for signs of any atypical behaviour / reluctance.

Good luck ATM.

[ATM]

Diesel Meister said:

anonymous said:

[redacted]

This - great stuff.

Condition is always key for secondhand purchases but especially so in this case all you can do is look, listen and feel for signs of any atypical behaviour / reluctance.

Good luck ATM.

Fingers crossed lads

[kingston12]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

I have been with them for years, and their renewal quote is always comical - usually at least a 50% increase from current year even if other insurers are less than current year. A quick screenshot from Admiral and they match/beat the quote.

It looks as though rates are up anyway this year as my usual search shows a 25% increase from what I am currently paying. I'll be interested to see what the Flux renewal is...

[ATM]

bgunn said:

Check the condition of the oil and coolant - check the coolant pressure comes up nice and high (the hoses should be 'inflated' quite hard after a good run) and that the pressure holds for a decent time after stopping the engine as this will at least show the cooling system holds pressure. Oil - I'd guess it last had an oil change when the engine was rebuilt - 5k old oil should be a medium brown colour if the engine has been 'used' to any degree, but it should feel pretty clean and have good lubricity when rubbed between pressed finger and thumb. It should not smell burnt - if it does, I'd want to walk away.

Compression - hard to tell without measuring, but as a guide 'by ear' - check the general demeanour of the engine - does it idle smoothly when cold, does it idle smoothly and happily when hot. Does it start quickly and feel 'perky' - if you've driven more than one you'll have a benchmark. Check for any noises - you might get some gentle clacking from the cam chains (there's five after all, and being an early motor it'll have a roller IMS chain which is a bit noisier) when starting from stone cold but it should stop once the oil pressure comes up fully.

Above all, it should go well, it should really lift up its skirt above 4000 rpm and take off like a scalded cat above 5 in the lower gears.

Shame it's a bit of a schlep for me - I'd happily come and act as a second opinion and you could judge against mine (a 69k C2 of the same vintage)..

So I bought it. Engine does pick up over 4000. It's not as quick as my boxster, that's for sure. Does make some weird tappet like noises. But starts promptly and idles smoothly. Pulls smooth in high gears at low revs. Altogether it works well. Brakes feel better than my boxster, perhaps it's just a firmer pedal and the stiff suspension. Weight moving round at the back is odd bit you quickly get a feel for it. Needs very little steering wheel movement to make it turn. Altogether it feels much more sensitive to all inputs.

[bgunn]

ATM said:

So I bought it. Engine does pick up over 4000. It's not as quick as my boxster, that's for sure. Does make some weird tappet like noises. But starts promptly and idles smoothly. Pulls smooth in high gears at low revs. Altogether it works well. Brakes feel better than my boxster, perhaps it's just a firmer pedal and the stiff suspension. Weight moving round at the back is odd bit you quickly get a feel for it. Needs very little steering wheel movement to make it turn. Altogether it feels much more sensitive to all inputs.

Yeah, they feel like a fairly hefty big Boxster - mine definitely feels a lot quicker than the Boxster did when it gets going - but I had a 2.7 Box, which was very sweet and revvy but ultimately not scorchingly quick.

You'll find the more you drive it, the more you get to like it. I'm really starting to enjoy mine, 4 months in! When you say tappet like noises, how long for?

Edited by bgunn on Tuesday 7th February 22:27

[ATM]

bgunn said:

Yeah, they feel like a fairly hefty big Boxster - mine definitely feels a lot quicker than the Boxster did when it gets going - but I had a 2.7 Box, which was very sweet and revvy but ultimately not scorchingly quick.

You'll find the more you drive it, the more you get to like it. I'm really starting to enjoy mine, 4 months in! When you say tappet like noises, how long for?

Edited by bgunn on Tuesday 7th February 22:27

I can't remember how quick my old 3.2 boxster was. My current boxster is the newest 3.4 and it revs much more urgently.

I'm not sure about the noises. I've only heard it start up once from outside. I've been too busy blasting around in it.

[bgunn]

ATM said:

I can't remember how quick my old 3.2 boxster was. My current boxster is the newest 3.4 and it revs much more urgently.

I'm not sure about the noises. I've only heard it start up once from outside. I've been too busy blasting around in it.

Ahh - yes, I guess a new one will be a fair bit more lively!

Enjoy! Great motors - I'm sure they'll creep up in value soon.

[bgunn]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Yep, I was going to write that in my post but it's getting late and I couldn't be bothered to write it in a particularly eloquent way (as you've done) - but the more modern Variocam+, better mapping, yada yada conspire to make things a lot sweeter and smoother. I'd say eGas has a lot to answer for in terms of 'dumbing down' the way the car feels too - opening a throttle butterfly with the pedal in a linear fashion definitely feels different, whereas doing it via fly by wire means the first quarter of pedal travel does a lot less on the butterfly to make the car feel lovely and soft around town.

It's a bit of a 'step backwards' initially, but I find the cable throttle 3.4 a lot more of an enriching experience to drive - it all feels rather more organic and honed by an engineer rather than a person with a laptop, and that's right for a sports car. I can only imagine what earlier Porsches are like with their analogue nature, having not yet had the chance for a drive.