I've just bought some poverty Pork…
Discussion
mfmman said:
I keep seeing this for sale, which just stretches 'poverty' IMO, but anyway
Porsche
The ad mentions a couple of little interior things that need attention. for me there is one great big one as well (which is a shame)
In my opinion, that 996 is a potential serious money pit. Quick look at previous MOT history, it had so many concerns two years ago, unless they fixed those fundamentally. (oil leak, exhaust, brakes, suspension...). Quite crisp Boxster 986 or 987 can easily be purchased and enjoyed with that amount of money, stress-free.Porsche
The ad mentions a couple of little interior things that need attention. for me there is one great big one as well (which is a shame)
All very true, but I've wanted a 911 since I was a very small boy looking at the lovely met bronze example with black and white chequered seats own by the son of the rich people who lived at the end of the lane in about 1980.
I'm also balding and 6ft 4" so would look an arse driving any convertible car
On that car itself, someone posted on here few weeks ago that a 996 was a £20k car, whether you pay 'X' for one then spend £20k - 'X' getting it right or just spend 20k in the first place, it still will cost £20k. that doesn't sound a bad way of going about buying one to me.
I'm also balding and 6ft 4" so would look an arse driving any convertible car
On that car itself, someone posted on here few weeks ago that a 996 was a £20k car, whether you pay 'X' for one then spend £20k - 'X' getting it right or just spend 20k in the first place, it still will cost £20k. that doesn't sound a bad way of going about buying one to me.
mfmman said:
All very true, but I've wanted a 911 since I was a very small boy looking at the lovely met bronze example with black and white chequered seats own by the son of the rich people who lived at the end of the lane in about 1980.
I'm also balding and 6ft 4" so would look an arse driving any convertible car
On that car itself, someone posted on here few weeks ago that a 996 was a £20k car, whether you pay 'X' for one then spend £20k - 'X' getting it right or just spend 20k in the first place, it still will cost £20k. that doesn't sound a bad way of going about buying one to me.
How about this one for a more traditional colour scheme: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-PORSCHE-911-996-Car...I'm also balding and 6ft 4" so would look an arse driving any convertible car
On that car itself, someone posted on here few weeks ago that a 996 was a £20k car, whether you pay 'X' for one then spend £20k - 'X' getting it right or just spend 20k in the first place, it still will cost £20k. that doesn't sound a bad way of going about buying one to me.
Sounds like it's had a lot of work done, though it will need air con rads, not just 'regassing for summer'.
yajeed said:
, though it will need air con rads, not just 'regassing for summer'.
Whilst I don't do it any more, by trade I am an Air Conditioning 'engineer'.If there is ever a phrase to make my teeth itch it is 'just needs regassing'. If it leaks, it leaks!
I know the condensers fail through a combination of rot or stone damage, does anyone ever use the proprietary coil coating systems used on commercial air conditioning system when they are installed in aggressive environments (like at the seaside). Should extend the life, although will do nothing against a stone through the fins obviously.
mfmman said:
Whilst I don't do it any more, by trade I am an Air Conditioning 'engineer'.
If there is ever a phrase to make my teeth itch it is 'just needs regassing'. If it leaks, it leaks!
I know the condensers fail through a combination of rot or stone damage, does anyone ever use the proprietary coil coating systems used on commercial air conditioning system when they are installed in aggressive environments (like at the seaside). Should extend the life, although will do nothing against a stone through the fins obviously.
Have you got a name / product for these coatings? I'm at the seaside! Any downsides such as reduced performance of the condensors / radiators?If there is ever a phrase to make my teeth itch it is 'just needs regassing'. If it leaks, it leaks!
I know the condensers fail through a combination of rot or stone damage, does anyone ever use the proprietary coil coating systems used on commercial air conditioning system when they are installed in aggressive environments (like at the seaside). Should extend the life, although will do nothing against a stone through the fins obviously.
Searider said:
mfmman said:
Whilst I don't do it any more, by trade I am an Air Conditioning 'engineer'.
If there is ever a phrase to make my teeth itch it is 'just needs regassing'. If it leaks, it leaks!
I know the condensers fail through a combination of rot or stone damage, does anyone ever use the proprietary coil coating systems used on commercial air conditioning system when they are installed in aggressive environments (like at the seaside). Should extend the life, although will do nothing against a stone through the fins obviously.
Have you got a name / product for these coatings? I'm at the seaside! Any downsides such as reduced performance of the condensors / radiators?If there is ever a phrase to make my teeth itch it is 'just needs regassing'. If it leaks, it leaks!
I know the condensers fail through a combination of rot or stone damage, does anyone ever use the proprietary coil coating systems used on commercial air conditioning system when they are installed in aggressive environments (like at the seaside). Should extend the life, although will do nothing against a stone through the fins obviously.
Sold my 2004 Boxster 2.7 this week. Standard car, just with the S upgrade alloys, and black leather.
Full history, but only part Porsche main dealer. 69K miles.
I gave £6750 for it last year at the end of summer, and got £6850 for it this year, so on paper a small profit. I did put a set of tyres on it though...
Had two calls about it in the week i had it for sale. Was expecting it to take longer to sell.
I think i did "ok". I didnt perhaps get top dollar, but likewise i dont think i gave it away?
Full history, but only part Porsche main dealer. 69K miles.
I gave £6750 for it last year at the end of summer, and got £6850 for it this year, so on paper a small profit. I did put a set of tyres on it though...
Had two calls about it in the week i had it for sale. Was expecting it to take longer to sell.
I think i did "ok". I didnt perhaps get top dollar, but likewise i dont think i gave it away?
snotrag said:
You owned (and presumably drove a bit) a bona fide Porsche for a while. And made.a.hubdred quid to boot. I'd say you did alright, as I'm sure would everyone else here! What next!?
Yes, i was well pleased with the car.Sold it through no fault of the car - i'd been running a Volvo T5 too, and a change of job roles means it was the wrong car combo for me. So, goodbye Porsche & T5, hello 2016 Passat Diesel!!
Still, cant cry too much, we've an A45 still too.
Will look to having another Porsche again at some point. Probably a 987 or a 911 (if i have the money and / or cajones!!)
Really enjoyed the car. A pleasure to own and drive.
ATM said:
Searider said:
mfmman said:
Whilst I don't do it any more, by trade I am an Air Conditioning 'engineer'.
If there is ever a phrase to make my teeth itch it is 'just needs regassing'. If it leaks, it leaks!
I know the condensers fail through a combination of rot or stone damage, does anyone ever use the proprietary coil coating systems used on commercial air conditioning system when they are installed in aggressive environments (like at the seaside). Should extend the life, although will do nothing against a stone through the fins obviously.
Have you got a name / product for these coatings? I'm at the seaside! Any downsides such as reduced performance of the condensors / radiators?If there is ever a phrase to make my teeth itch it is 'just needs regassing'. If it leaks, it leaks!
I know the condensers fail through a combination of rot or stone damage, does anyone ever use the proprietary coil coating systems used on commercial air conditioning system when they are installed in aggressive environments (like at the seaside). Should extend the life, although will do nothing against a stone through the fins obviously.
http://www.mymicroguard.com/products/hvac/
UK product
http://www.heronhill.co.uk/products/199/protective...
It goes without saying that if anyone has a go at this, it's at their own risk!
snotrag said:
I took advantage of a few sales, and made some purchases. Keep me busy for a coupe of days! 
Ohhhh, let me know how the rear end goes please, I just did the front on mine (incl ARB drop links, bushes and TRE's) and can now hear the clonks from the back end so that's next.Thanks
Jim
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Does give an option to turn them into GT3 style arms on more of a budget. There's a few monoball options for the outer bush and a few for the centre one too. Perhaps they might even press them in for you if you sent them up or just renew the balljoint and discount for lack of other bushes ...snotrag said:
I took advantage of a few sales, and made some purchases. Keep me busy for a coupe of days!
Where did these come from andnis the deal still on? I see design911 have a full set of fronts for £300. Are these not the TRW oem parts? How come they are not available anymore? Anyone know?
ATM said:
Interesting - I have never heard of people applying coatings. People just fit grills to stop objects getting past the bumper.
I sprayed mine with GT85 after clearing out last year and before fitting grills. It didn't do any harm. The condensers had just been replaced and still look good. GT85 is just a different WD40 so it's not magic, but it does give some protection and means that less dirt sticks. For it to have any long lasting benefits I suspect you'd need to do it every quarter or so and then drive or run the fans to get it to run through the matrix and coat all the fins. I had an issue with the light in the front boot. This generally doesn't work but I have seen it on once in a blue moon. The bulb was fine when swapped with the rear boot and my multimeter was saying zero volts. Also, the alarm wouldn't beep if locked with the boot open. I suspected the microswitch in the locking mechanism. Internet seemed to confirm the same; allegedly a common problem.
Before buying a new one, I investigated. Below is a mini how-to. Hopefully, this may help some of you readers and lurkers.
You'll need socket set with 10mm head, a flat head screwdriver, fine nose pliers and maybe some silicone spray.
Open the boot. Notice the dead light. There's a plastic trim held in by four plastic screw-like fasteners (one's missing on mine...). These unlock by turning them 90 degrees so the 'head' is horizontal. You can then pull the trim off.
DSC_0655 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
You'll be greeted with this:
DSC_0683 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
There are a couple of fasteners holding the front of the boot carpet in place (one's missing one mine...notice a theme?
). These come off with some twisting and pulling.
DSC_0685 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
I didn't take any pictures of this, but the latching mechanism is held in place with two 10mm bolts. Loosen these. There's a metal backing plate / cover that sits behind the mechanism.
DSC_0678 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
You should be able to remove this with the bolts loosened. Remove the bolts completely. There are a couple of cables and an electrical connector that need to be removed.
Remove this one first. Just prises out with a flat head screwdriver. Be careful not to damage the rubber bung.
DSC_0677 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
Undo the electrical connector behind the boot carpet that leads to the mechanism. One side just simply slides off by depressing the ends and pulling. The other (below) is clipped into the front of the boot. The bit of plastic in the middle (this is the side that is clipped to the car) need to be prised away to unclip the connector from the car.
DSC_0674 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
Once this is done, you should be able to squeeze the rubber bung and cable / connector through towards the front of the car and pull it through
DSC_0675 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
Disconnect the second cable. This is clipped at two points. Be careful not to cause any damage.
DSC_0673 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
You can now remove the latch mechanism.
DSC_0657 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
The microswitch and actuator cam are beneath a black plastic cover (with what look like a couple of philips screw heads at the bottom), which is clipped to the mechanism at the top. Unclip this and pop it out:
DSC_0664 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
The issue was obvious. The cam is spring loaded and should close the switch without any assistance. However it doesn't:
DSC_0670 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
This is what it should do (and close the switch):
DSC_0669 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
Connect the microswitch back to the plug in the boot and you should be able to turn the light on and off my moving (and assisting) the cam to the closed and open position.
The microswitch and electrical connector can be easily prised out with a flat head screwdriver:
DSC_0671 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
I bent the metal actuator slightly with some fine nose pliers so the cam would have less resistance. I also lubed the cam with silicone. Once the switch and cam are assembed back together, ensure the cam now closes the switch without any assistance.
Refit the microswitch assembly to the latch mechanism and fit the whole this back to the car (reverse of removal). Don't bother with the trim panel just yet. The light should now be on.
DSC_0679 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
Close the latch mechanism manually with a screwdriver to ensure the microswitch is operating correctly and the light goes out. Make sure to push the latch all the way so it closes
2017-04-22_05-42-24 by ash_ashy_mo, on Flickr
This is a good opportunity to test the boot release still works correctly. The latch should release and the light should come back on.
If all is well, close the boot. Check the level of the boot - you may have to loosen the bolts on the latch mechanism to adjust the height so the boot closes flush with the bumper.
You can test the microswitch is working by dropping the boot but not pushing it down. Try locking the car and the alarm will beep, indicating something isn't closed. Unlock with the central locking and close the boot properly. Lock again and you shouldn't get a beep.
Total cost: £5 and some pennies, vs a new microswitch which is upwards of £65 online: http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod129758/Porsche-F...
Winning
Before buying a new one, I investigated. Below is a mini how-to. Hopefully, this may help some of you readers and lurkers.
You'll need socket set with 10mm head, a flat head screwdriver, fine nose pliers and maybe some silicone spray.
Open the boot. Notice the dead light. There's a plastic trim held in by four plastic screw-like fasteners (one's missing on mine...). These unlock by turning them 90 degrees so the 'head' is horizontal. You can then pull the trim off.
DSC_0655 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrYou'll be greeted with this:
DSC_0683 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrThere are a couple of fasteners holding the front of the boot carpet in place (one's missing one mine...notice a theme?
). These come off with some twisting and pulling.DSC_0685 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrI didn't take any pictures of this, but the latching mechanism is held in place with two 10mm bolts. Loosen these. There's a metal backing plate / cover that sits behind the mechanism.
DSC_0678 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrYou should be able to remove this with the bolts loosened. Remove the bolts completely. There are a couple of cables and an electrical connector that need to be removed.
Remove this one first. Just prises out with a flat head screwdriver. Be careful not to damage the rubber bung.
DSC_0677 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrUndo the electrical connector behind the boot carpet that leads to the mechanism. One side just simply slides off by depressing the ends and pulling. The other (below) is clipped into the front of the boot. The bit of plastic in the middle (this is the side that is clipped to the car) need to be prised away to unclip the connector from the car.
DSC_0674 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrOnce this is done, you should be able to squeeze the rubber bung and cable / connector through towards the front of the car and pull it through
DSC_0675 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrDisconnect the second cable. This is clipped at two points. Be careful not to cause any damage.
DSC_0673 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrYou can now remove the latch mechanism.
DSC_0657 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrThe microswitch and actuator cam are beneath a black plastic cover (with what look like a couple of philips screw heads at the bottom), which is clipped to the mechanism at the top. Unclip this and pop it out:
DSC_0664 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrThe issue was obvious. The cam is spring loaded and should close the switch without any assistance. However it doesn't:
DSC_0670 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrThis is what it should do (and close the switch):
DSC_0669 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrConnect the microswitch back to the plug in the boot and you should be able to turn the light on and off my moving (and assisting) the cam to the closed and open position.
The microswitch and electrical connector can be easily prised out with a flat head screwdriver:
DSC_0671 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrI bent the metal actuator slightly with some fine nose pliers so the cam would have less resistance. I also lubed the cam with silicone. Once the switch and cam are assembed back together, ensure the cam now closes the switch without any assistance.
Refit the microswitch assembly to the latch mechanism and fit the whole this back to the car (reverse of removal). Don't bother with the trim panel just yet. The light should now be on.
DSC_0679 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrClose the latch mechanism manually with a screwdriver to ensure the microswitch is operating correctly and the light goes out. Make sure to push the latch all the way so it closes
2017-04-22_05-42-24 by ash_ashy_mo, on FlickrThis is a good opportunity to test the boot release still works correctly. The latch should release and the light should come back on.
If all is well, close the boot. Check the level of the boot - you may have to loosen the bolts on the latch mechanism to adjust the height so the boot closes flush with the bumper.
You can test the microswitch is working by dropping the boot but not pushing it down. Try locking the car and the alarm will beep, indicating something isn't closed. Unlock with the central locking and close the boot properly. Lock again and you shouldn't get a beep.
Total cost: £5 and some pennies, vs a new microswitch which is upwards of £65 online: http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod129758/Porsche-F...
Winning
Edited by Rosewood Red on Saturday 22 April 18:58
edc said:
The TRW-same-as-Porsche-but-with-logo-ground-off have been unavailable for some time supposedly due to a dispute with Porsche. These arms used to be really quite cheap. Think £65 a coffin arm and £35 for a rear diagonal.
Eurocarparts. Just select trw on the drop down list. And yes they have the Porsche logo ground off. It was 56% off at Easter, got ten litres of shell helix and a a set of filters too. Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff