Millers 10W-50 Nano Oil - Good for our cars?
Discussion
Patrick Bateman said:
I'd expect so for the most part. Willing themselves to notice a change because they've spent money. 
If there was a difference I doubt it would be large enough for someone to notice.
I brought the mower out of winter hibernation yesterday. Cleaned the spark plug, changed the oil - swear that started and revved better after the oil change too!If there was a difference I doubt it would be large enough for someone to notice.
We appear to be awash with technical information, for which most people in reality, will go right over the top of their heads!
I have been fascinated by the discussions concerning oils in this country. My local engineer says to use an oil that is the best for this country and that the first figure should not start with 0.
He says 0 is designed for minus 25 and that history suggests that hasn't happened recently in Cambridge for quite a long time. I should stress at this point, that this is his words and not mine.
I also have a ww2 jeep, and suggested that perhaps I should move forward to a more complete oil than a mineral oil????
Knowing that I have a porsche, he asked if I had any bore scoring issues, with the jeep, Which I said, no not any problems at all.
After some terrible language concerning porsche engines, he retired back into the garage.
So, after considering his other comments on Mobil 1 and a great deal that Porsche must have achieved to supply all there customers, I decided to go with Baz and use an 5-40 oil for my 981 till it has reached 70k and then move to a 10-40 for the rest of its life.......??????
The car has just crept passed 17k miles and with annual oil changes I am hoping not to have to contact Baz ever.
Thanks Baz.........please let me know if I have to change anything else.
Gadgit.
I have been fascinated by the discussions concerning oils in this country. My local engineer says to use an oil that is the best for this country and that the first figure should not start with 0.
He says 0 is designed for minus 25 and that history suggests that hasn't happened recently in Cambridge for quite a long time. I should stress at this point, that this is his words and not mine.
I also have a ww2 jeep, and suggested that perhaps I should move forward to a more complete oil than a mineral oil????
Knowing that I have a porsche, he asked if I had any bore scoring issues, with the jeep, Which I said, no not any problems at all.
After some terrible language concerning porsche engines, he retired back into the garage.
So, after considering his other comments on Mobil 1 and a great deal that Porsche must have achieved to supply all there customers, I decided to go with Baz and use an 5-40 oil for my 981 till it has reached 70k and then move to a 10-40 for the rest of its life.......??????
The car has just crept passed 17k miles and with annual oil changes I am hoping not to have to contact Baz ever.
Thanks Baz.........please let me know if I have to change anything else.
Gadgit.
gadgit said:
I assume that 50 would be for extreme sahara desert conditions and so the 40 would be enough????? For this country.......
I do have another 50k miles to make the choice
Gadgit.
Was it Hartech you spoke to directly about it? I was coming from the point of view of Hartech requiring 10W50 for their warranty after a rebuild so just curious about the difference. I do have another 50k miles to make the choice
Gadgit.
gadgit said:
So, after considering his other comments on Mobil 1 and a great deal that Porsche must have achieved to supply all there customers, I decided to go with Baz and use an 5-40 oil for my 981 till it has reached 70k and then move to a 10-40 for the rest of its life.......??????
Wouldn't you rather increase the high temperature viscosity as you get more mileage than change the low temp viscosity as presumably you really want the higher viscosity oil when the engine is hot?
After reading the Hartech posts there are a few ways to go concerning this oil situation. And remember, no one has the engine thing licked yet!
One of the main reasons considered by Hartech was that mobil 1 grade was not the best strart for an engine due to its lack of early lubrication on engine start up. What seemed the ideal way of pumping something so thin through the engine could have been its downfall.
I don't remember engines in the 70s and 80s falling apart with 20-50 oil which everybody used to use then it seemed.....
So I suppose once my car cracks 70k miles with a modern engine, is 10-50 or 10-40 better for the engine.
Is it possible in a mordern engine 2014 flat six cayman, that at high revs, the 50 may just stress the engine a bit to much......, who knows the answer at this stage. Not Porsche...... But probably Baz will no, but possibly not yet.....see what I mean.
Gadgit
One of the main reasons considered by Hartech was that mobil 1 grade was not the best strart for an engine due to its lack of early lubrication on engine start up. What seemed the ideal way of pumping something so thin through the engine could have been its downfall.
I don't remember engines in the 70s and 80s falling apart with 20-50 oil which everybody used to use then it seemed.....
So I suppose once my car cracks 70k miles with a modern engine, is 10-50 or 10-40 better for the engine.
Is it possible in a mordern engine 2014 flat six cayman, that at high revs, the 50 may just stress the engine a bit to much......, who knows the answer at this stage. Not Porsche...... But probably Baz will no, but possibly not yet.....see what I mean.
Gadgit
Happy thread resurrection. I don't suppose Baz is still following this, but based on my own background in this I have the following comments and suggestions;
If areas of the engine are getting too hot during critical stages of driving due to not enough cooling throughput through the engine, then surely an oil which works at a higher temperature is surely a very good idea, and I'm frankly surprised people have criticised that. I'm sure Porsche didn't plan on bore score mitigation on brand new cars while approving their list of oils, and surely a 997 only driven in the summer time in a U.K. Climate would benefit from 10w50. The only argument against using a thicker oil could also be lower propagation / flow through the internal oil emitters inside the engine. But this would have resulted in engine failures for all sorts of reasons on Hartech rebuilt cars, and they'd have quietly gone back to recommending 0w40, which clearly hasn't happened. I'd only worry about using that thicker oil if I used a 911 in the winter.
The best way for a engine building specialist to gather data would be to send off oil samples - simply sell a complete oil change kit for the 997 complete with a pre paid postage tube of oil sample and you'll be able to even test each used oil sample for grade/viscosity and lokasil/metal content can gather even more data to silence the critics. The aircraft industry has done this for years.
With regard to the lack of cooling water flow - wouldn't an additional way to combat the issue be to also not only fit a low temperature thermostat (as is already recommended)but also drill it to allow a bit of extra flow - yes the engine will take perhaps a minute longer to get up to temperature but overall this would perhaps be of benefit. Although expensive, waterless coolant would also help as it would reduce hotspots and make the thermostat open wider due to its lower specific heat capacity compared to water. You'd get higher coolant flow to achieve the same amount of cooling, which is a good thing based on the hartech theory.
Also, what about installing an ELectric booster pump such as this one either into the ignition circuit or the circuit for the cooling fan - or indeed, its own thermostat pasted into contact with the most susceptible cylinder with a reasonable action temperature threshold. The pump itself would be very easy indeed to install on the 911. I have seen these used on track cars (albeit not porsches but cars running no engine water pump at all due to retrofitted dry sumps to very good effect)
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/davies-craig-...
If areas of the engine are getting too hot during critical stages of driving due to not enough cooling throughput through the engine, then surely an oil which works at a higher temperature is surely a very good idea, and I'm frankly surprised people have criticised that. I'm sure Porsche didn't plan on bore score mitigation on brand new cars while approving their list of oils, and surely a 997 only driven in the summer time in a U.K. Climate would benefit from 10w50. The only argument against using a thicker oil could also be lower propagation / flow through the internal oil emitters inside the engine. But this would have resulted in engine failures for all sorts of reasons on Hartech rebuilt cars, and they'd have quietly gone back to recommending 0w40, which clearly hasn't happened. I'd only worry about using that thicker oil if I used a 911 in the winter.
The best way for a engine building specialist to gather data would be to send off oil samples - simply sell a complete oil change kit for the 997 complete with a pre paid postage tube of oil sample and you'll be able to even test each used oil sample for grade/viscosity and lokasil/metal content can gather even more data to silence the critics. The aircraft industry has done this for years.
With regard to the lack of cooling water flow - wouldn't an additional way to combat the issue be to also not only fit a low temperature thermostat (as is already recommended)but also drill it to allow a bit of extra flow - yes the engine will take perhaps a minute longer to get up to temperature but overall this would perhaps be of benefit. Although expensive, waterless coolant would also help as it would reduce hotspots and make the thermostat open wider due to its lower specific heat capacity compared to water. You'd get higher coolant flow to achieve the same amount of cooling, which is a good thing based on the hartech theory.
Also, what about installing an ELectric booster pump such as this one either into the ignition circuit or the circuit for the cooling fan - or indeed, its own thermostat pasted into contact with the most susceptible cylinder with a reasonable action temperature threshold. The pump itself would be very easy indeed to install on the 911. I have seen these used on track cars (albeit not porsches but cars running no engine water pump at all due to retrofitted dry sumps to very good effect)
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/davies-craig-...
Was this warmed over because of my recent post? 
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=17...
(I was also wondering about xxw50 oils in winter - but i'll quite happily defer to baz on this one as i've no experience at all in this area whereas his reputation speaks for itself)
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=17...
(I was also wondering about xxw50 oils in winter - but i'll quite happily defer to baz on this one as i've no experience at all in this area whereas his reputation speaks for itself)
Edited by MrJingles705 on Sunday 15th October 21:45
Just stuck the latest Millers 10w50NT+ in my 1996 996 with 89K on it this morning - west coast of Scotland, never gets that cold here anyway.
You only live once, thought I'd take Hartech's lead!
Car usually runs on 5-40W Edge and uses quite a lot of oil when used hard, so I'm looking forward to seeing how this pans out. I have no oil leaks, as I've had them all fixed.
You only live once, thought I'd take Hartech's lead!
Car usually runs on 5-40W Edge and uses quite a lot of oil when used hard, so I'm looking forward to seeing how this pans out. I have no oil leaks, as I've had them all fixed.
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