Discussion
yes, brand new and the car drove perfectly to Anglesey - it was only after the track day that i noticed the issue on the way home.
Makes sense that its the tyres if the geo is now back to what it was and nothing is bent which it shouldn't be unless I have a weak coffin arm or similar. i went over a couple of v mild kerbs at the exit of the loop hairpin and spun once on the tarmac (no grass cutting etc.)
Car goes back in Friday for re-geo and a spanner/visual check - anything else i should be doing?
Cheers,
Kevin
Makes sense that its the tyres if the geo is now back to what it was and nothing is bent which it shouldn't be unless I have a weak coffin arm or similar. i went over a couple of v mild kerbs at the exit of the loop hairpin and spun once on the tarmac (no grass cutting etc.)
Car goes back in Friday for re-geo and a spanner/visual check - anything else i should be doing?
Cheers,
Kevin
Did you change or check the bushes on the rear Suspension side subframes, on gt cars these are solid mounted but on all others they are mount to the body via a bush, if they are knackered you will have the geo change a lot under load, worth checking them. You can get solid mount kits but not sure how much they are.
I don't think your camber is that excessive to be honest.
Ive drove to spa and the ring and back many times with 2 days on track with the front camber at -3.5 and the rear -2.5 and had no uneven tyre wear whatsoever. It's usually incorrect toe that kills tyres in my experience.
I don't think your camber is that excessive to be honest.
Ive drove to spa and the ring and back many times with 2 days on track with the front camber at -3.5 and the rear -2.5 and had no uneven tyre wear whatsoever. It's usually incorrect toe that kills tyres in my experience.
around 1.25deg front
that will be painfull lol
I ran -2 at Anglesey last week end and no issues on the 1000 mile 4 day holiday I did with track day inc.
do you make sure your pressures are ok on track as I have to let out a good 8 psi over the day, then re pump them up in the morning after a cold night at the hotel.
that will be painfull lol
I ran -2 at Anglesey last week end and no issues on the 1000 mile 4 day holiday I did with track day inc.
do you make sure your pressures are ok on track as I have to let out a good 8 psi over the day, then re pump them up in the morning after a cold night at the hotel.
Why not take a tyre pyrometer or as a minimum an IR thermometer, re setting the front camber?
It's all very well getting "a setup", but if you don't drive "to this setup" i.e. just hard enough to make use of the camber, but not so aggressively such that you need more camber, then whatever amount of -ve you have dialled in will be sub optimal.
The ONLY real way to set camber is via seeing how hot the tyres get at (say) 3 points across their section. Everything else is guesswork at best. Granted, for a given tyre, you can get a ball park setting, but saying 1.25 is way too low, and you should have -2 degrees is irrelevant until you see what is required. This is also useful for setting your tyre pressures accurately, but you'll need to interpret the 3 tyre readings slightly differently with respect to pressure.
Put an average driver on Cup car settings and they'd be all over the place, as they have neither the talent or speed to both control the feedback the car provides or the ability to keep sufficient heat in the tyres.
This happens a lot with bikes, where a magazine will print THEIR setup, which everyone else blindly copies, regardless of either understanding what they're doing, or the effect their weight has on the setup (granted, it's a much larger factor in bike setup).
It's all very well getting "a setup", but if you don't drive "to this setup" i.e. just hard enough to make use of the camber, but not so aggressively such that you need more camber, then whatever amount of -ve you have dialled in will be sub optimal.
The ONLY real way to set camber is via seeing how hot the tyres get at (say) 3 points across their section. Everything else is guesswork at best. Granted, for a given tyre, you can get a ball park setting, but saying 1.25 is way too low, and you should have -2 degrees is irrelevant until you see what is required. This is also useful for setting your tyre pressures accurately, but you'll need to interpret the 3 tyre readings slightly differently with respect to pressure.
Put an average driver on Cup car settings and they'd be all over the place, as they have neither the talent or speed to both control the feedback the car provides or the ability to keep sufficient heat in the tyres.
This happens a lot with bikes, where a magazine will print THEIR setup, which everyone else blindly copies, regardless of either understanding what they're doing, or the effect their weight has on the setup (granted, it's a much larger factor in bike setup).
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