Lambda sensors

[m60ddy]

Evening all. I believe my Landba sensors have fail on my AJP. Looking at the parts I can get one from race tech direct for £80 but also looking at Alex Judds alternative list I can get the britpart ERR 6729 from LR direct for £40. Does anyone have / use the britpart unit in their car and is it ok. Secondly is there a difference between left and right sensors??

Many thanks. Matt

[ukkid35]

Why did they fail?

The most common cause is the exhaust manifold sealant. Make sure you use the right type otherwise you are condemning your new sensors to an early death.

[m60ddy]

Yes cracked manifolds but all sorted now so ready for new sensors hence the question. As said the Judd alternative parts list mentions the ERR6729 and I'm asking if anyone has experience of them. In all the images I've seen they look identical but half the price of race tec

[Supateg]

From my experience you need ntk sensors, majority of branded parts use these, like intermotor, landrover, Bosch etc the cheapest these can be had for is £70 each. Cheaper alternatives are false economy.

Hth

[Mr Cerbera]

Some time ago I had a prob with one of mine so replaced both of them with units that I had found on the web which were cheaper than TVR suppliers'.
Then, a short time later when I had driven down to Monza, one of the new ones went on the blink.
This is not an area I would recommend saving money on (especially when the price difference is nothing compared to a tank of fuel).

No difference in left or right but be careful that you attach the appropriate one to its cable plug (behind the block) otherwise the ECU will make changes to the wrong ignition bank if the Lambda picks up an unusual reading.

[m60ddy]

Thanks very much. All sorted now with a pair of NTK. Just need to put some miles on her now so she can sort her self out.

[Mr Cerbera]

Hope that you reset The Adaptives before you started off.

[gruffalo]

I gave up with the Lambda's, replaced them with blanks and turned them off in the ECU map, mine went faulty twice or three times a year.

[Mr Cerbera]

gruffalo said:

I gave up with the Lambda's, replaced them with blanks and turned them off in the ECU map, mine went faulty twice or three times a year.

Ooh, I lurve an alternate plan

[Jabbah]

gruffalo said:

I gave up with the Lambda's, replaced them with blanks and turned them off in the ECU map, mine went faulty twice or three times a year.

Was that on the MBE ecu? How did you do it?

[gruffalo]

Jabbah said:

gruffalo said:

I gave up with the Lambda's, replaced them with blanks and turned them off in the ECU map, mine went faulty twice or three times a year.

Was that on the MBE ecu? How did you do it?

It has to be part of the Map, if you have the full version of the software you can do it but not with the normal version.

I used to have to change at least two lambda's a year now never.

[Jabbah]

gruffalo said:

It has to be part of the Map, if you have the full version of the software you can do it but not with the normal version.

I used to have to change at least two lambda's a year now never.

Interesting. If I remember correctly most cars run open loop above certain RPM and throttle positions anyway and closed loop is more for efficient cruising. So making it open loop for all areas is perfectly safe. Do you have any issues with emissions for MOT ever?

[gruffalo]

Nope, passes fine.

You can put the Lambda's back in to see how the car is running, they just don't control anything so if the go faulty you don't have to replace them, on mine they average a reading of .92 and you need <1 for an MOT test I believe.

Edited by gruffalo on Saturday 2nd July 06:45

[Twinkam]

Important not to confuse a Lambda value (as read by a gas analyser) with anything to do with a Lambda Sensor (which should really be called an Oxygen Sensor).
Lambda is a theoretical value calculated from all the tested gasses (including O, CO, CO2, NO2) inserted into a formula where the ideal value is 1.0 ...for MOT +/- 0.03 tolerance allowed.
The Oxygen Sensor just detects the oxygen content (not how many Lambdas!) in the exhaust and supplies a varying voltage for the ECU to decipher.
The ECU uses this (along with all the other sensor inputs) to calculate the fuelling for closed loop (generally a steady throttle condition).
A well set up FI engine will give around 1% CO (pre CAT or at tailpipe if no CAT) compare that to eg an old Mini on an SU where 3.0 was the norm!
So if your figure of 0.92 is % CO, it's about right.

Edited by Twinkam on Saturday 2nd July 10:33