Oil for 996 turbo

Oil for 996 turbo

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huggies

Original Poster:

55 posts

184 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
I am getting all sorts of "advice" re what is the preferred oil to choose
I currently have Mobil SHC 10/60 in there and am due a change
I have been told MIllers is preferable
What do the experts suggest
The car has done 64k with a full service history
I would rather like to ensure long life as the car is a keeper

Whilst asking do I change the TIptronic oil and if so what is suggested
Ditto re the diff oil

Fl0pp3r

859 posts

202 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
I've been filling my cars (Carreras and GT3's) with Mobil X1 Super3000 5W40 for the past few years, but am going to 'upgrade' to Millers Nanodrive CFS5w40 having read about the benefits this tri-ester oil brings - primarily even further reduction of friction, better temperature control at high crank speeds (ie track), and some say a small power gain (though this is the least in order of priority!).

Orangecurry

7,399 posts

205 months

Sunday 17th July 2016
quotequote all
You really need to DYOR, but isn't that engine designed to run on 0W40? What does your Driver's Manual say?

I'd probably put a 5W40 in it. 10W60 sounds wrong on every level.

ETA this is worth a read if you want an unbiased opinion...

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/10w-...

Edited by Orangecurry on Sunday 17th July 22:58

huggies

Original Poster:

55 posts

184 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the help

My handbook is 10 years out of date of course and there is so much conflicting/confusing advice out there I was seeking input from folks like you who clearly have a deeper understanding and some knowledge of latest products
I know Hartech recommend Millers but my local indie persists with SHC for example
Plus I cannot run with OPC advice that every 2 years is OK
Sound help so thanks again

Orangecurry

7,399 posts

205 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
Your handbook is not out of date. It matches the oil specification that the engine was designed for.

I agree 100% that you should not listen to advice on your engine from an OPC today or Porsche HQ today, but instead you SHOULD listen to the engineers who designed and built the Mezger engine.

Porsche have been laughable on the recommendations for the oil-cooled engines over the years - switching in a heartbeat from 'you must use 0W40' to 'you must use our own classic 20W50 oil' in a 911 and 'you must use our own classic 10W60 oil' in a late911/964/993.

Most credible indies recommend the factory spec. weights for these cars.

New oils don't change the laws of physics. They just don't break down as quickly as older formulations.

(Established engineering advice is to 'possibly' increase the cold-starting weight as the mileage increases...)

huggies

Original Poster:

55 posts

184 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
Got all that and taken on board and i will follow your advice

As a non engineer with a brain not really in tune with things scientific your advice has been invaluable

Yes I too remember all the conflicting recommendations when I ran SC's etc and tbh really don't trust Porsche OPC's at all on most things (sad but it's commercial world I guess) so thank heavens for enthusiasts

Orangecurry

7,399 posts

205 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
Don't forget my advice is to DYOR and not listen to nutters on the internet... hehe

huggies

Original Poster:

55 posts

184 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
promise not to..... just like my Dad told me
thanks again

chriscoates81

482 posts

131 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
Im interested to know if porsche recommend the same oil in a car thats been to the moon and back as is in a brand new car?

Orangecurry

7,399 posts

205 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
There is no distinction - Porsche told you to fit 0W40 in your oil-cooled car from 1998? until 2014, and now you are told to fit 20W50 or 10W60.

http://www.porsche.com/international/accessoriesan...

How dare you ask such an irrelevant question? It's almost as bad as what climate do you live in, or what use do you put the car to?

Just pay twice as much for the wrong oil in a nice container, and sit smugly knowing that their advice is beyond question.

huggies

Original Poster:

55 posts

184 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
How about this for a brilliant response (and within 2 hours!) from OPIE oils????????




We would use a 5w-40 synthetic and you will find those through the link below.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul Sport/300V, Red Line and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XF Longlife, Castrol Edge/Magnatec, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives.

As you need about 9L, with most of those oils the order would be over £60, so delivery would be free.



I'll choose to go with that advice if thats OK

Orangecurry

7,399 posts

205 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
I have no affiliation with Opie, but would recommend them without question for supply and advice, as they are unbiased...

I forgot to answer your tiptronic and diff questions - here there is no controversy, and I would imagine Opie will recommend you something that could ship with the engine oil, should you choose to source it from them.

I bought some Mobil 75W90 from Opie few months back for my gearbox.

ETA I used to fill the engine with Motul X-Cess 8100, as it is a highly recommended oil, and was even on the Porsche-approved list a few years back, and I have only moved away from it as
a) my oil-cooled engine really suits a 10W40 in the UK climate
b) the formulation on the X-Cess changed to an SN, which is not an issue for your water-cooled engine but might have been an issue for my oil-cooled engine over many years.

Edited by Orangecurry on Monday 18th July 15:33

Digga

40,206 posts

282 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
FWIW I had an oil change at Sports & Classic the other week on my similarly aged 996 turbo and they use/recommend 5W 40 Millers.

I'd done a DIY interim/6 month oil and filter change myself previously, using Mobil 1 0W 40. I will be interested to see if there is any discernible difference - will monitor oil consumption as usual.

huggies

Original Poster:

55 posts

184 months

Monday 18th July 2016
quotequote all
Thanks and I trust Mike st classic and sports car
Like you I like to do some diy hence the question which has been answered superbly

Digga

40,206 posts

282 months

Tuesday 19th July 2016
quotequote all
My take on the DIY oil change is, even though mileage is negligible, it's an insurance policy. The Mezger engine burns oil - lots of reasons why, it's well documented and the owners manual says something like 1L/1,000km (600m) IIRC - so given that, it stands to reason that some un-burned oil is recirculating through the engine and that the overall quality of the oil will deteriorate, even though you are topping-up with new.

Rockster

1,508 posts

159 months

Wednesday 20th July 2016
quotequote all
huggies said:
I am getting all sorts of "advice" re what is the preferred oil to choose
I currently have Mobil SHC 10/60 in there and am due a change
I have been told MIllers is preferable
What do the experts suggest
The car has done 64k with a full service history
I would rather like to ensure long life as the car is a keeper

Whilst asking do I change the TIptronic oil and if so what is suggested
Ditto re the diff oil
Porsche does not approve any 10w-XX, 15w-XX or 20w-XX oil for use in these engines.

Its approved oils list lists only some (a few) 0w-40 oils, a bunch of 5w-40 oils, and at least one 5w-50 oil.

My 2003 Turbo has been filled with 0w-40 most of its life -- currently with 146K miles on it -- but a year or so ago I switched to 5w-50 oil as it gets plenty hot here where I live (triple digit heat coming (again) this weekend) and doesn't get that cold.

(My 2002 Boxster likewise was filled with 0w-40 until recently I switched it over to 5w-50, too. Oh, the Boxster has 302K miles on its engine.)

For real cold operation -- -25C or colder -- Porsche recommends 0w-40 oil.

Frankly, given your location I think just sticking with 0w-40 oil is best. (There's a USA based Turbo with over 400K miles on its engine and the owner has used 0w-40 oil and upon engine teardown -- to address engine wear and leaks -- no engine wear was found.)

My only recommendation is to consider changing the oil/filter more often than Porsche recommends. I've always followed a 5K mile oil/filter change interval.

You can change the Tip fluid at any time. Best have this done by a reputable shop that knows how to do this properly and that uses the right (same) ATF.

huggies

Original Poster:

55 posts

184 months

Wednesday 20th July 2016
quotequote all
Blimey impressive mileages......in fact amazing

I agree on regular changes the wisdom i am going to run with is 5W-40 as it grants some extra start up protection as the engine ages i think.I am going with Fuchs/Silkolene on OPIE's advice whom I have been hugely impressed with

I looked at the workshop manual re the tip ATF as a DiY job.......... basically suck it out and carefully and slowly drip it in as there is a baffle.Is there more to it than that? I guess of course swap the filter also
The Porsche view is 96k miles but I wanted to do it before that based on age

Very interesting to hear from you and thanks

Digga

40,206 posts

282 months

Thursday 21st July 2016
quotequote all
huggies said:
Blimey impressive mileages......in fact amazing

I agree on regular changes the wisdom i am going to run with is 5W-40 as it grants some extra start up protection as the engine ages i think.I am going with Fuchs/Silkolene on OPIE's advice whom I have been hugely impressed with

I looked at the workshop manual re the tip ATF as a DiY job.......... basically suck it out and carefully and slowly drip it in as there is a baffle.Is there more to it than that? I guess of course swap the filter also
The Porsche view is 96k miles but I wanted to do it before that based on age

Very interesting to hear from you and thanks
Fills me with hope. biggrin

That said, the Mezger was designed to be incredibly durable, so looked after well - and the matter of oil maintenance is definitely key - they should last well.

Rockster

1,508 posts

159 months

Sunday 24th July 2016
quotequote all
huggies said:
Blimey impressive mileages......in fact amazing

I agree on regular changes the wisdom i am going to run with is 5W-40 as it grants some extra start up protection as the engine ages i think.I am going with Fuchs/Silkolene on OPIE's advice whom I have been hugely impressed with

I looked at the workshop manual re the tip ATF as a DiY job.......... basically suck it out and carefully and slowly drip it in as there is a baffle.Is there more to it than that? I guess of course swap the filter also
The Porsche view is 96k miles but I wanted to do it before that based on age

Very interesting to hear from you and thanks
Changing the Tip ATF is a bit more involved than just letting the fluid drain out and then refilling the transmission with fresh Porsche fluid. After refilling the manual calls for the PST2 (Porsche diagnostics computer) be connected and the Tip fluid temperature checked. It should not be over 40C at the start of what follows. The engine is started and the Tip shifter is moved to each position and left there for 10 seconds. More fluid is added via the charging hole until fluid runs out the control screw bore.

Here are some snippets from the factory manual regarding ATF fluid replacement:

Replacing ATF fluid
Note
Remarks
• Top up only with ATF approved by Porsche. See Parts Catalogue!
Filling capacity: approx. 9.0 litres Change quantity: approx. 4.5 litres
1. Place oil collection pan under the transmission.

2. Unscrew drain plug −A− and drain ATF. Note
• Without ATF, the engine must not be started and the vehicle must not be towed. 3. Replace sealing ring for drain plug and screw in plug.
Tightening torque: 22 Nm (16 ftlb.)
einordnung
4. Unscrew control screw −B− . Note
• To undo and tighten the cap nut for the charging valve, counter with an open−ended wrench.
5. Screw off cap nut for the charging
valve.
6. Screw connection hose 9507/1 −A− onto charging valve. Top up with ATF via the charging valve until surplus ATF runs out at the control screw bore.
Note
• All instructions and test conditions for "Checking and topping up ATF fluid" must be observed for further work steps (see Serv. No. 370235).

7. Connect the Porsche System Tester 2 and call up the ATF temperature.
8. Move selector lever to position "P" and allow engine to idle.


9. With engine running, top up ATF again until excess ATF emerges from the bore of the ATF control screw −B− .
10. With the brake pedal pressed, change through all selector lever positions, remaining in each position for approx. 10 s.
Note
• The ATF temperature must not be higher than 40 °C at the start of the test.
11. Check the ATF level again and top up if necessary.
12. Replace sealing ring for cap nut and screw cap nut onto the charging valve.
Tightening torque: 40 Nm (30 ftlb.)
13. Screw in the ATF control screw with a new sealing ring and tighten it to 20 Nm (15 ftlb.).

See Tightening Torque below.

For my Porsches and in fact for all my cars I've always had the transmission fluid changed at the dealer. I did a manual fluid change once years ago and while it went off without a hitch the fluid stinks to high heaven and makes a mess.

BTW, with the Tip you have to do a separate procedure to change the rear differential fluid and don't forget the front diff.

My experience is neither of my Porsche engines appears to have any real clearance issues even with the 302K miles on the Boxster and the 146K on the Turbo. Both engines are still quiet upon cold start and durign hot idle. Hot engine idle oil pressure with the Turbo is unchanged from what it was with just 10K miles on the engine to now. There is no oil pressure gage for the Boxster but the engine never manifests any signs of low oil pressure cold, warm or hot.

It is not the start up protection that worries me. The engines are quite adequately lubed at start up as long as the proper multi-grade oil is present. What worries me is high temperature high load operation.

The engines were fine with 0w-40 I just switched to 5w-50 (not a typo for 15w50!) because it gets hot here. Up to 97F (36C) today in fact and it will remain in the mid to high 90's most of next week. In this heat even just driving in town the engines get plenty hot. I've seen 226F coolant temperature from my Boxster. The Turbo engine runs cooler as it has better air flow through the radiator ducts and and more cooling capacity (3 radiators).


huggies

Original Poster:

55 posts

184 months

Sunday 24th July 2016
quotequote all
Yup can't argue looks like an experts job to change the Tip ATF so off to my local indie

The 2 diifs I guess are straightforward certainly the w/shop manual seems to say so???

This thread has taught me a great deal so thanks to you all