Mk1 LCD Display
Discussion
Evening all,
I've just bought a 2003 MK1 Tuscan, the car ran well on the 230 mile trip home with the only issue being the LCD display. The display has lots of lines running though it, making reading all information impossible (except for the rev counter which is big enough to still be able to make out).
Any suggestions pls?
Thanks
Richard
I've just bought a 2003 MK1 Tuscan, the car ran well on the 230 mile trip home with the only issue being the LCD display. The display has lots of lines running though it, making reading all information impossible (except for the rev counter which is big enough to still be able to make out).
Any suggestions pls?
Thanks
Richard
http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/N01...
If you fancy doing this yourself, its relatively easy. You'll be removing the electronics from inside the instrument binnacle from the back, while leaving the silver frame and glass etc in place. You will need:
Long pozidrive #2 screwdriver
Short pozidrive #2 screwdriver
Short pozidrive #1 screwdriver
Pair long nose pliers
(ideally) a 6mm socket with handle.
Instructions:
1. Remove instrument cover: Two black screws either side of cover towards the back. Lift slightly then unplug the two connectors from the instrument cluster and one connector on a flying lead towards the back. Remove cover completely.
2. Locate two small screws that secure grey metal bracket to the vertical face on right hand side. Its easier to stand outside the car and look through the window. The screws are about 2" apart, one above the other, with heads facing front. Remove both, they are about 6mm long.
3. Locate 4 long screws that secure instrument assembly to main framework. Two on each side, pozi heads facing front, you'll be able to see the long screw threads. Remove all 4.
4. Bend bracket that you freed in step 2 away from assembly about 1".
5. Carefully grasp pcb assembly from the back and lift out.
6. Place on table covered with a folded towel face down. Be careful throughout not to put too much pressure downwards, you don't want to damage the needle.
7. Locate 4 pozi screws that secure top pcb. Remove all 4. Carefully lift pcb off - it is now only secured by several multi-pin connectors - these will come apart with only a small amount of force.
8. Using 6mm socket (or, less preferably, pliers), unscrew 4 hexagonal pillars that these screws were screwed into. Remove second pcb.
9. Continue in this vein, until you get to the pcb with several plugs at the bottom. Mark these with a pen so you can see which one goes where, then unplug them and remove this pcb. Place all pcbs one on top of each other so you can see the order in which they must be refitted.
10. Note small motor at centre with white worm gear which drives the speedo needle. Remove the two screws that secure motor to the right-angle aluminium machining, and remove motor.
11. The remaining pcb is the display module. Remove 4 screws that secure this to the aluminium machining, then carefully prize this up, top first. With a small amount of gentle persuasion it will come away.
12. Place new module in position, and fit 4 screws.
13. Refit motor, ensuring that it is not tight against the white gear or they will jam. Use the play in the two screws that secure it to position its worm gear as far away from the white gear wheel as possible. You should be able to easily turn the motor spindle by hand and make the speedo needle move. Ensure when you replace the motor that the needle is at or just above the zero position (i.e. not below it. If it's above zero it's ok, it will recalibrate itself.)
14. Refit all PCBs in order, as above, ensuring when you locate them that all the multipin connectors line up properly, there should be no need to force the pcbs together.
15. Reassembly is the reverse of above.
While the instrument assy is out its a good idea to check that the glass has not moved back in its frame - perhaps put a few little dobs of silicone at its edges to preclude it happening in the future. If the glass does become unattached and move back it can foul the needle and you'll have to take the whole caboodle out again to fix it.
Replacing the cover is a bit fiddly, make sure you don't forget to reconnect the three cables inside before securing it!
Whole job should take 30 mins to an hour.
Sorted.
Good luck with the car Richard, she's a cracker!
Andy.
If you fancy doing this yourself, its relatively easy. You'll be removing the electronics from inside the instrument binnacle from the back, while leaving the silver frame and glass etc in place. You will need:
Long pozidrive #2 screwdriver
Short pozidrive #2 screwdriver
Short pozidrive #1 screwdriver
Pair long nose pliers
(ideally) a 6mm socket with handle.
Instructions:
1. Remove instrument cover: Two black screws either side of cover towards the back. Lift slightly then unplug the two connectors from the instrument cluster and one connector on a flying lead towards the back. Remove cover completely.
2. Locate two small screws that secure grey metal bracket to the vertical face on right hand side. Its easier to stand outside the car and look through the window. The screws are about 2" apart, one above the other, with heads facing front. Remove both, they are about 6mm long.
3. Locate 4 long screws that secure instrument assembly to main framework. Two on each side, pozi heads facing front, you'll be able to see the long screw threads. Remove all 4.
4. Bend bracket that you freed in step 2 away from assembly about 1".
5. Carefully grasp pcb assembly from the back and lift out.
6. Place on table covered with a folded towel face down. Be careful throughout not to put too much pressure downwards, you don't want to damage the needle.
7. Locate 4 pozi screws that secure top pcb. Remove all 4. Carefully lift pcb off - it is now only secured by several multi-pin connectors - these will come apart with only a small amount of force.
8. Using 6mm socket (or, less preferably, pliers), unscrew 4 hexagonal pillars that these screws were screwed into. Remove second pcb.
9. Continue in this vein, until you get to the pcb with several plugs at the bottom. Mark these with a pen so you can see which one goes where, then unplug them and remove this pcb. Place all pcbs one on top of each other so you can see the order in which they must be refitted.
10. Note small motor at centre with white worm gear which drives the speedo needle. Remove the two screws that secure motor to the right-angle aluminium machining, and remove motor.
11. The remaining pcb is the display module. Remove 4 screws that secure this to the aluminium machining, then carefully prize this up, top first. With a small amount of gentle persuasion it will come away.
12. Place new module in position, and fit 4 screws.
13. Refit motor, ensuring that it is not tight against the white gear or they will jam. Use the play in the two screws that secure it to position its worm gear as far away from the white gear wheel as possible. You should be able to easily turn the motor spindle by hand and make the speedo needle move. Ensure when you replace the motor that the needle is at or just above the zero position (i.e. not below it. If it's above zero it's ok, it will recalibrate itself.)
14. Refit all PCBs in order, as above, ensuring when you locate them that all the multipin connectors line up properly, there should be no need to force the pcbs together.
15. Reassembly is the reverse of above.
While the instrument assy is out its a good idea to check that the glass has not moved back in its frame - perhaps put a few little dobs of silicone at its edges to preclude it happening in the future. If the glass does become unattached and move back it can foul the needle and you'll have to take the whole caboodle out again to fix it.
Replacing the cover is a bit fiddly, make sure you don't forget to reconnect the three cables inside before securing it!
Whole job should take 30 mins to an hour.
Sorted.
Good luck with the car Richard, she's a cracker!
Andy.
Edited by alinton on Thursday 6th September 09:00
Edited by alinton on Thursday 6th September 10:34
Edited by alinton on Thursday 6th September 10:35
Edited by alinton on Thursday 6th September 10:40
I could only suggest you remove the cowling again Rob and double check all the multi plugs. If that does not work then you'll probably need to remove the head unit then strip/rebuild (assuming you stripped it to do whatever work was required to the speedometer needle). Stripping the head may seem intimidating but is actually straight forward if you follow the instructions and lay the components out methodically.
I don't really think there can be anything else to check,
Richard
I don't really think there can be anything else to check,
Richard
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