Discussion
Oh dear David, you seem to be chasing your tail on this! TVR's don't you just love'em!
I'd agree with Neill - in terms of priority of resolving issue.
Have you tried 'phoning the electronics chap?
I'd be tempted to buy an encoder - you'd always have a spare then, and fit it and see if the situation improves?
Nick
I'd agree with Neill - in terms of priority of resolving issue.
Have you tried 'phoning the electronics chap?
I'd be tempted to buy an encoder - you'd always have a spare then, and fit it and see if the situation improves?
Nick
Yeah Paul said it could be a fault within the ECU or encoder.
I think tonight I'll strip everything down (again), clean all the connectors of everything. Check all the fuses as I haven't even looked there. Put the drivers side door back how it was to see if I can get that to work properly again. If that works then it is most likely a dodgey encoder I think.
Is there a way of testing them? Or is it simply just replace and stop messing around?
I think tonight I'll strip everything down (again), clean all the connectors of everything. Check all the fuses as I haven't even looked there. Put the drivers side door back how it was to see if I can get that to work properly again. If that works then it is most likely a dodgey encoder I think.
Is there a way of testing them? Or is it simply just replace and stop messing around?
OK, sage words from Neill again.
Basically, it's a bit of a cr*p design. All the electrics behind the door card are not really damp protected. Therefore, it pays to put Vaseline/dialectric grease on the multipin plugs, keep the window spiral drive lubricated....and waterproof the encoder!!
Think you're on the right track now.
Nick
Basically, it's a bit of a cr*p design. All the electrics behind the door card are not really damp protected. Therefore, it pays to put Vaseline/dialectric grease on the multipin plugs, keep the window spiral drive lubricated....and waterproof the encoder!!
Think you're on the right track now.
Nick
Replaced the encoder and it's still the same.
I believe it may be a fault with the microswitch.
I pulled all the wiring out for both and there was a ruddy great battery attached between the live of the door solenoid and earth of the microswitch. Could this be causing an issue if the battery was flat? I presume it's for the alarm, looks like aftermarket.
I believe it may be a fault with the microswitch.
I pulled all the wiring out for both and there was a ruddy great battery attached between the live of the door solenoid and earth of the microswitch. Could this be causing an issue if the battery was flat? I presume it's for the alarm, looks like aftermarket.
It was a tracker.
No idea when it was put in but it's in the bin now and wiring removed.
Ordered a new catch and a door micro switch now so hopefully it will start working. Otherwise I'm out of options.
Does anyone know if there is a way to fully reset the system? So the windows know they're shut etc?
No idea when it was put in but it's in the bin now and wiring removed.
Ordered a new catch and a door micro switch now so hopefully it will start working. Otherwise I'm out of options.
Does anyone know if there is a way to fully reset the system? So the windows know they're shut etc?
I am in Gloucestershire and do travel down.
There is an electrical diagram on here somewhere. The only thing that controls the number of drops is the encoder via the controller. You swapped the controllers over, did the drivers side work then?
The encoder works on a slot or marker passing the encoder, I haven't taken it apart so I don't know. I wonder if there is a problem there, or if the signal isn't getting to the controller. Or the controller isn't recognising the pulses from the encoder. Is it always 4" or does it change?
There is an electrical diagram on here somewhere. The only thing that controls the number of drops is the encoder via the controller. You swapped the controllers over, did the drivers side work then?
The encoder works on a slot or marker passing the encoder, I haven't taken it apart so I don't know. I wonder if there is a problem there, or if the signal isn't getting to the controller. Or the controller isn't recognising the pulses from the encoder. Is it always 4" or does it change?
davidsc said:
Fixed it tonight.
Turns out it was a loose connection inside the plug between the encoder.
Looks like I'll need a new loom or maybe do away with the plug totally...!
Well done David...good bit of fault finding!Turns out it was a loose connection inside the plug between the encoder.
Looks like I'll need a new loom or maybe do away with the plug totally...!
When I was up with Jason picking my car up after service, we were moaning about some of the rubbish 'Alarm/Tracker' installs by so-called professionals.
Good shout removing the device IMO. I think I commented regarding all the electrics in the door cavity - so worth doing preventative maintenance on them.
Nick
Yep, Paul's fantastic - happy to give advice over the 'phone.
...Hmm, reversing light. I'd check in order of ease:
Fuses - from end of board nearest driver's knees check all 4 fuses - mainly 7.5 amp jobbies. Just had one blow on my car...took out brake lights and reverse light
2-pin connector in boot at light fitting - Use multi-meter - car in revers, ignition ON.
Then if no success, look at reverse light switch. Need to remove centre console, gear knob and handbrake alloy finisher then lift small carpeted panel with gaiters on. This will expose rubber gaiter around gear stick - 4 off self-tappers and silicone secure the rubber gaiter to tunnel. Lifting this will allow you to peer at gear stick and attached bracket. The bracket strikes the ball switch when in reverse. The bracket and the switch can both be adjusted!!
Note that the reverse light flickering on whilst driving usually indicates a failed N/S engine mount.
Nick
...Hmm, reversing light. I'd check in order of ease:
Fuses - from end of board nearest driver's knees check all 4 fuses - mainly 7.5 amp jobbies. Just had one blow on my car...took out brake lights and reverse light
2-pin connector in boot at light fitting - Use multi-meter - car in revers, ignition ON.
Then if no success, look at reverse light switch. Need to remove centre console, gear knob and handbrake alloy finisher then lift small carpeted panel with gaiters on. This will expose rubber gaiter around gear stick - 4 off self-tappers and silicone secure the rubber gaiter to tunnel. Lifting this will allow you to peer at gear stick and attached bracket. The bracket strikes the ball switch when in reverse. The bracket and the switch can both be adjusted!!
Note that the reverse light flickering on whilst driving usually indicates a failed N/S engine mount.
Nick
Hi Guys
Wow - that could be it. When the window dropped originaly I did not notice for a day or so. Car was parked outside and it had rained. Water had entered the car through the passenger window and no doubt come had gone inside the door.
We will take a look and let you know - many thanks - and well done pistonheads, a great community.
Wow - that could be it. When the window dropped originaly I did not notice for a day or so. Car was parked outside and it had rained. Water had entered the car through the passenger window and no doubt come had gone inside the door.
We will take a look and let you know - many thanks - and well done pistonheads, a great community.
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