Discussion
My passenger side window is misbehaving, I open the door and the window drops as usual but when I shut the door the window doesn't go up all the way. Then if I open the door again usually the window won't drop at all and it will catch on the a pillar.
I've swapped the door ecus over and the problem is still there.
The microswitch on the latch is operating fine and doesn't seem to be causing a problem.
The window will wind all the way up when I use the key fob, sometimes it will take a couple of goes though.
It seems to me that the window doesn't really know where it is, is there another sensor or anything that I can reset?
I've swapped the door ecus over and the problem is still there.
The microswitch on the latch is operating fine and doesn't seem to be causing a problem.
The window will wind all the way up when I use the key fob, sometimes it will take a couple of goes though.
It seems to me that the window doesn't really know where it is, is there another sensor or anything that I can reset?
Try removing the door card (3 Allen screws at the bottom of the door pocket) and then removing and refitting the encoder. The encoder is a little circuit board with a few wires attached and is screwed to the top of the window motor. Just unscrew and reseat it again.
I've had problems over the years and always managed to sort it out by mucking around with the ecu's or playing around with the alarm fob. However recently, I couldn't get my driver's window working no matter what I did. I eventually did the above and it's been perfect ever since.
I've had problems over the years and always managed to sort it out by mucking around with the ecu's or playing around with the alarm fob. However recently, I couldn't get my driver's window working no matter what I did. I eventually did the above and it's been perfect ever since.
Cockey said:
Try removing the door card (3 Allen screws at the bottom of the door pocket) and then removing and refitting the encoder. The encoder is a little circuit board with a few wires attached and is screwed to the top of the window motor. Just unscrew and reseat it again.
I've had problems over the years and always managed to sort it out by mucking around with the ecu's or playing around with the alarm fob. However recently, I couldn't get my driver's window working no matter what I did. I eventually did the above and it's been perfect ever since.
What he said!!I've had problems over the years and always managed to sort it out by mucking around with the ecu's or playing around with the alarm fob. However recently, I couldn't get my driver's window working no matter what I did. I eventually did the above and it's been perfect ever since.
Encoder is small (about 12mm x 40mm) circuit board sitting on top of window lift motor.
In TVR's wisdom, they came from the factory as just that - without any water protection. Latterly, I think dealer/owners covered the board in a clear silicone to protect.
I've used an electrical spray to sort mine out - both on the board/electronics themselves and its multi-pin connector. Usually restores normal operation.
Nick
Window glass needs to be in a position to access top of motor (fully up IIRC).
Spray encoder plug and encoder itself with WD-40...Sometimes a poorly encoder will respond to drying out with a hair dryer/placing in airing cupboard.
Worst case, you've got to buy a new encoder. TVR carparts and Racetech will have them.
Nick
Spray encoder plug and encoder itself with WD-40...Sometimes a poorly encoder will respond to drying out with a hair dryer/placing in airing cupboard.
Worst case, you've got to buy a new encoder. TVR carparts and Racetech will have them.
Nick
Hi,
Did that and now the problem is different.
Press door release window drops as normal.
Door pops but doesn't open, (solenoid not powerful enough?)
Then you have to press the button again or put a bit of opening force against the door and it will pop open fully the 2nd time but the window will drop again!
Then you close the door and the window will only go half way up unless you use the window switched
Any ideas?
Did that and now the problem is different.
Press door release window drops as normal.
Door pops but doesn't open, (solenoid not powerful enough?)
Then you have to press the button again or put a bit of opening force against the door and it will pop open fully the 2nd time but the window will drop again!
Then you close the door and the window will only go half way up unless you use the window switched
Any ideas?
You can hear the solenoid operate, however it doesn't pop the catch like it does on the drivers side unless force is applied to the door.
Is this a solenoid issue or a door catch issue?
If I keep the door open and flick the catch closed with a screw driver, then press the door release button the door catch will never open on the first press - it always takes another go.
Is the door catch TVR specific? How about the solenoid?
I've had a poke around behind but there is limited room to see what is happening but have noticed the door catch is quite hard to operate by hand (where the solenoid attaches).
Is this a solenoid issue or a door catch issue?
If I keep the door open and flick the catch closed with a screw driver, then press the door release button the door catch will never open on the first press - it always takes another go.
Is the door catch TVR specific? How about the solenoid?
I've had a poke around behind but there is limited room to see what is happening but have noticed the door catch is quite hard to operate by hand (where the solenoid attaches).
Door latch:-
I'd try taking off stainless beauty cover on B-post and cleaning the mechanism up and lubricating.
If your hearing the solenoid operating, my opinion is that the wiring is 'intact', BUT, you might be loosing a bit through corroded connectors. Have a go at tracing the wiring from the solenoid - you will find a 2-pin connector, cleaning same may help?
Nick
I'd try taking off stainless beauty cover on B-post and cleaning the mechanism up and lubricating.
If your hearing the solenoid operating, my opinion is that the wiring is 'intact', BUT, you might be loosing a bit through corroded connectors. Have a go at tracing the wiring from the solenoid - you will find a 2-pin connector, cleaning same may help?
Nick
Ok, after lots of swearing and cut arms the door is now popping open like it should.
Press door button, window winds down.
Door pops and window winds down more.
Close the door and window winds back up to the first position.
It seems like the door button opens the window, then when the door micro switch is unpressed the window winds down again, which it shouldn't do...
Any ideas?
Is the microswitch at fault?
Press door button, window winds down.
Door pops and window winds down more.
Close the door and window winds back up to the first position.
It seems like the door button opens the window, then when the door micro switch is unpressed the window winds down again, which it shouldn't do...
Any ideas?
Is the microswitch at fault?
OK, Just a thought, have you gone through a couple of -
Shut door....lock car.
Unlock car, open door. Repeat several times.
I 'think' the encoder has to "learn" how many revolutions of the motor it takes for discrete operations.
Failing this, it might be the window ecu. These are located, effectively, under & behind the ashtray. Need to remove the transmission tunnel 'cover' to get at them (1 for each side). If it's the pass. side only that's playing up, swap the window ecu's over to see if the issue is still there with the other ecu.
Nick
Shut door....lock car.
Unlock car, open door. Repeat several times.
I 'think' the encoder has to "learn" how many revolutions of the motor it takes for discrete operations.
Failing this, it might be the window ecu. These are located, effectively, under & behind the ashtray. Need to remove the transmission tunnel 'cover' to get at them (1 for each side). If it's the pass. side only that's playing up, swap the window ecu's over to see if the issue is still there with the other ecu.
Nick
I'll try that but obviously shutting, locking, opening, shutting doesn't work properly so that leaves me to either go inside the cabin and wind the window closed using the spin knob or press and hold key fob for total closure a couple of times until the window finally reaches the top position.
I've tried swapping the door ECU's over before when it was doing it and the problem was still there, but I'll try again and see if it makes a difference this time.
Is there a way to totally reset the windows?
It's like it doesn't really know where the fully closed position is, it thinks half open is fully closed
I've tried swapping the door ECU's over before when it was doing it and the problem was still there, but I'll try again and see if it makes a difference this time.
Is there a way to totally reset the windows?
It's like it doesn't really know where the fully closed position is, it thinks half open is fully closed
David, yep that's what I mean by the lock/unlock process,,,,,using the key fob to get all the electronics to re-synch themselves. Everything done from outside the car.
One other thing that's crossed my mind, is to disconnect the battery ( negative only needed) . Then when you replace Neg. battery cable the default should be that the windows go fully closed and the car locks itself. Totally random, but maybe ittll be like turning your PC on and off,,,,hard reboot??
Nick
One other thing that's crossed my mind, is to disconnect the battery ( negative only needed) . Then when you replace Neg. battery cable the default should be that the windows go fully closed and the car locks itself. Totally random, but maybe ittll be like turning your PC on and off,,,,hard reboot??
Nick
OK, I'm at the end of my "window - door lock" knowledge :-).
If you still have problems then I'd 'phone Paul Smith here: http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/
Paul is ex-factory, will happily chat/give advice over the 'phone, and if he deduces that the ecu needs attention, his rates are quite reasonable.
Interested how you get on though
Nick
If you still have problems then I'd 'phone Paul Smith here: http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/
Paul is ex-factory, will happily chat/give advice over the 'phone, and if he deduces that the ecu needs attention, his rates are quite reasonable.
Interested how you get on though
Nick
I think it's the window encoder sensor thingy.
When I spin the window knob the glass moves down in 2 large movements. Nothing like the fully working side which moves down in 1cm increments.
Is the encoder behind the door card the only thing that tells the ecu where the window is?
Swapping the ecus didn't work :-(
The encoder is only a couple years old and don't think it could have got wet!
When I spin the window knob the glass moves down in 2 large movements. Nothing like the fully working side which moves down in 1cm increments.
Is the encoder behind the door card the only thing that tells the ecu where the window is?
Swapping the ecus didn't work :-(
The encoder is only a couple years old and don't think it could have got wet!
Fuses, encoders, door switches, ecu's and then regulators in that order. That is all there is really to go wrong.
Only other thing I can think of is a broken wire on the door loom or a fault in the multipin connector on the door, unusual on the passenger door as it isn't used as much as the drivers door. What are the connectors like on the encoder?
If it is going down in one or two movements then it has to be the encoder.
Not going up or down after the door is shut is the microswitch normally, or a constant door open warning.
Only other thing I can think of is a broken wire on the door loom or a fault in the multipin connector on the door, unusual on the passenger door as it isn't used as much as the drivers door. What are the connectors like on the encoder?
If it is going down in one or two movements then it has to be the encoder.
Not going up or down after the door is shut is the microswitch normally, or a constant door open warning.
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