Discussion
tvrmallorca said:
Does anyone know the part numbers for the later hub carriers as I am definitely changing my upper wishbones to the later one. Mine is a sept 2000 red rose model. Also is it worth changing the drop links to the upgraded version?
You'll need a later steering rack as well.Edited by tvrmallorca on Sunday 9th August 10:56
The original hub carriers can be machined to suit the longer wishbones which could be a cheaper option than replacing. Rack spacers can also be used along with the later track rod arms. This will put the pivot point closer in line with the wishbone pivots.
I was recently going to do the same thing and went as far as buying the wishbones but when I measured them up it gives the car yet more positive scrub radius which is not good. I'm not suggesting don't do this but be aware of the changes you are making and the effects it has on the geometry. I made a conscious decision to keep the earlier parts and my car works very very well. It has none of the nervous traits that are much publicised on here (I am regularly deep into three figures- how I still have a license I don't know!) and can hold with the best when being thrown down a bumpy B road.
One change I did make was the addition of spacer plates to the lower side of the hub carriers. This allowed me to drop the front suspension but still keep the lower wishbones horizontal. As well as the aesthetic improvement, they have made the car feel much more planted.
Edited to add:
Having re read this I'd like to add my comment about my driving above is not me trying to be or thinking I'm big, clever, stupid or the reincarnate of Ayrton Senna. I was merely trying to make the point I have pushed my car very hard and it doesn't display the characteristics that many do at much lower speeds.
I was recently going to do the same thing and went as far as buying the wishbones but when I measured them up it gives the car yet more positive scrub radius which is not good. I'm not suggesting don't do this but be aware of the changes you are making and the effects it has on the geometry. I made a conscious decision to keep the earlier parts and my car works very very well. It has none of the nervous traits that are much publicised on here (I am regularly deep into three figures- how I still have a license I don't know!) and can hold with the best when being thrown down a bumpy B road.
One change I did make was the addition of spacer plates to the lower side of the hub carriers. This allowed me to drop the front suspension but still keep the lower wishbones horizontal. As well as the aesthetic improvement, they have made the car feel much more planted.
Edited to add:
Having re read this I'd like to add my comment about my driving above is not me trying to be or thinking I'm big, clever, stupid or the reincarnate of Ayrton Senna. I was merely trying to make the point I have pushed my car very hard and it doesn't display the characteristics that many do at much lower speeds.
Edited by Andy_mr2sc on Monday 10th August 11:42
tvrmallorca said:
hey basil
why do I need to change the rack? just curious as other people have said only the wishbone and the carrier is needed??
I found with mine that to get the front to stay in alignment over a decent amount of travel, it needed the later 30mm shorter track rods which then means the wider rack bar or extension pieces.why do I need to change the rack? just curious as other people have said only the wishbone and the carrier is needed??
For clarity some of the very early Tuscans had the rack from the Cerbera which was too short. The consequent mismatch of wishbone and track rod lengths caused bump steer. So couple that with the poor early wishbone and upright design and you have a bucking bronco on your hands. Most Tuscans do actually have the correct length rack, but they might not be shimmed up correctly to minimize bump steer.
I'm running Toyo R1Rs on the front in 225/40 18 size. These made a great difference over the previous 225/35. Much less tram lining. On the back are 255/35 Bridgestone Potenzas. Not my choice, they came with the car and until recently had too much rubber left on to warrant changing. These are getting changed for R1Rs any time now as they are the weak point at the back, breaking away with ease.
Something to remember is the rear suspension is just as important as the front. I run nitrons too. I recently replaced all the ball joints on the front and replaced the original standard bushes with some from acetal with stainless steel sleeves. These are quite hard; between polybush blacks and nylon. My car now rides better than before because I could back the dampers off a click. The bushes are now doing what they are supposed to (locating the suspension arms and allowing them to move through their travel smoothly) instead of doing the job of the damper and spring (absorbing shocks.)
I personally found the floaty unstable feeling at speed came from the back as much, if not more than the front and gave that weaving fish movement. The bush that is by the toe adjustor on the rear has a fair amount of rubber in it and my case this could easily be levered a few mm which as you will know is light years in wheel movement.
Something to remember is the rear suspension is just as important as the front. I run nitrons too. I recently replaced all the ball joints on the front and replaced the original standard bushes with some from acetal with stainless steel sleeves. These are quite hard; between polybush blacks and nylon. My car now rides better than before because I could back the dampers off a click. The bushes are now doing what they are supposed to (locating the suspension arms and allowing them to move through their travel smoothly) instead of doing the job of the damper and spring (absorbing shocks.)
I personally found the floaty unstable feeling at speed came from the back as much, if not more than the front and gave that weaving fish movement. The bush that is by the toe adjustor on the rear has a fair amount of rubber in it and my case this could easily be levered a few mm which as you will know is light years in wheel movement.
Thanks Andy - I think my first step will be switching from my current 255/35's all around to 225s at the front. From what you've said I should be ok keeping the current steering rack regardless if it is the old or new one (I don't know which version it is - though it was refurbished this year) - is there an easy way to tell?
Cheers!
Cheers!
Edited by Dischordant on Wednesday 12th August 18:20
The later rack is wider but I'm not sure of the actual numbers. You can tell by measuring the track rod length. The early ones are ~336mm and later ones ~314mm. To save buying an expensive rack 22mm spacers can be made that screw in the end of the rack then the track rod screws into this. (Watch this space...) The track rods are then a similar length to the lower wishbone which is (generally) a good thing for bump steer (or lack of.) It also brings the track rod pivot point closer in line with the inner pivot point of the upper and lower wishbones which is also good for geometry.
Discho I've just seen the colour of your car. What is it called? I've never seen it before. Stunning!
Discho I've just seen the colour of your car. What is it called? I've never seen it before. Stunning!
Edited by Andy_mr2sc on Wednesday 12th August 21:23
Very interesting to hear about spacers to sole the issue! I will indeed watch this space =)
Cheers for the compliment on the colour! It's Deep Candy Red - multiple layers of candy on top of a silver. Had to go through a lot of different combinations until I found one that worked for what I was trying to achieve (a red that almost goes to black at certain angles that therefore emphasizes the Tuscan's curves) - The grill and wheels are painted in a dark anthracite.
Cheers for the compliment on the colour! It's Deep Candy Red - multiple layers of candy on top of a silver. Had to go through a lot of different combinations until I found one that worked for what I was trying to achieve (a red that almost goes to black at certain angles that therefore emphasizes the Tuscan's curves) - The grill and wheels are painted in a dark anthracite.
After getting the car back from Castle at Bishops Stortford, it feels like a completely different animal! Handling is spot on, I can actually completely let go of the wheel on a straight road and it doesn't even twitch.
Also I had air leaks on the TB's and they were not set up correctly, along with a few other items, it drives much better in every way!
I'm not even going to bother with the 3mm spacers now, I had intended on putting them on but I don't see how they can make it any better. Next big spend will be Nitrons over the winter!
Also I had air leaks on the TB's and they were not set up correctly, along with a few other items, it drives much better in every way!
I'm not even going to bother with the 3mm spacers now, I had intended on putting them on but I don't see how they can make it any better. Next big spend will be Nitrons over the winter!
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