Radio pod door switches
Discussion
Sometimes they seem to work, sometimes they dont.
Last week the car decided to take me hostage in one of its "now they dont" moments!
Took everything to pieces today, including stripping down the door opener solenoids.
Findings:
1. The interior switches behind those nice gold buttons...were actually knackered. Highly intermittent according to DMM. Hard to believe but true! Replaced with some maplin push to make jobs. Now its instant, every time (like the outside ones)
2. The solenoid motors are poor quality. Not helped by being exposed to the elements. Brushes a bit burnt and spiny thing rusty. Cleaned up, greased and re-assembled. Seem much more "perky" to pop the door open
Lets see
Last week the car decided to take me hostage in one of its "now they dont" moments!
Took everything to pieces today, including stripping down the door opener solenoids.
Findings:
1. The interior switches behind those nice gold buttons...were actually knackered. Highly intermittent according to DMM. Hard to believe but true! Replaced with some maplin push to make jobs. Now its instant, every time (like the outside ones)
2. The solenoid motors are poor quality. Not helped by being exposed to the elements. Brushes a bit burnt and spiny thing rusty. Cleaned up, greased and re-assembled. Seem much more "perky" to pop the door open
Lets see
Hi Pete,
I had a similar "look and learn fix it session" but never took the dash buttons apart. I found the multipin connector inside the door ecu was not soldered properly, I realised it was a problem in the box as a tap from a screwdriver opened the door while the button was held in. It is a through plated board and they really need to be "sweated" to get the solder to flow through, especially as the pins of the connector are acting like a heat sink when you solder.
I cleaned up the micro switches in the door lock as well as these were fuzzed up, a good dose of contact cleaner and the aerospace stuff in a purple can to keep out the weather has done the trick so far.
Glad you got sorted.
J
I had a similar "look and learn fix it session" but never took the dash buttons apart. I found the multipin connector inside the door ecu was not soldered properly, I realised it was a problem in the box as a tap from a screwdriver opened the door while the button was held in. It is a through plated board and they really need to be "sweated" to get the solder to flow through, especially as the pins of the connector are acting like a heat sink when you solder.
I cleaned up the micro switches in the door lock as well as these were fuzzed up, a good dose of contact cleaner and the aerospace stuff in a purple can to keep out the weather has done the trick so far.
Glad you got sorted.
J
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