How to replace window encoder when the bugger is stuck open!
Discussion
Morning all.
So the drivers side window wont close, new encoder ordered, pop off the door panel...
where's this new thingie go... not obvious at all!
perhaps the gubbins I'm after are behind the open window, which of course is now inside the door, so I cant get to the motor or actuator....
Maybe I'm looking too hard and it's staring me in the face!!
So the drivers side window wont close, new encoder ordered, pop off the door panel...
where's this new thingie go... not obvious at all!
perhaps the gubbins I'm after are behind the open window, which of course is now inside the door, so I cant get to the motor or actuator....
Maybe I'm looking too hard and it's staring me in the face!!
ILoveMondeo said:
Morning all.
So the drivers side window wont close, new encoder ordered, pop off the door panel...
where's this new thingie go... not obvious at all!
perhaps the gubbins I'm after are behind the open window, which of course is now inside the door, so I cant get to the motor or actuator....
Maybe I'm looking too hard and it's staring me in the face!!
OK, you've got the door card off and the rubber damp membrane lifted/removed?
The glass and associated mechanism is in the fully 'open' position?
The encoder is held onto the top of the lift motor by a small machine screw. I think you need to remove the window glass - pretty easy - look at the bottom of the glass, and you'll see 2 off clamping devices that hold the glass. Un-clamp the glass (c/sunk allen bolts), and lift the glass, carefully, out of the runners.
Looking at the motor, you'll see fairly heavy gauge wiring to the motor itself and lighter wiring going to the encoder...both go to multi pin connectors.....Give both connectors (& encoder pcb) a spray with contact cleaner and try window lift rotary switch. It may work now!
Swapping the encoder for the new item is pretty straight forward.
....Also check the micro-switch behind the lock-plate on the B-post...Make sure the actuating lever is well located and the switch is being 'made' when the lock is closed. This switch 'tells' the window ecu the door is shut when it is electrically 'made',, and allows the window to be lifted to shut position.
Nick
So the drivers side window wont close, new encoder ordered, pop off the door panel...
where's this new thingie go... not obvious at all!
perhaps the gubbins I'm after are behind the open window, which of course is now inside the door, so I cant get to the motor or actuator....
Maybe I'm looking too hard and it's staring me in the face!!
OK, you've got the door card off and the rubber damp membrane lifted/removed?
The glass and associated mechanism is in the fully 'open' position?
The encoder is held onto the top of the lift motor by a small machine screw. I think you need to remove the window glass - pretty easy - look at the bottom of the glass, and you'll see 2 off clamping devices that hold the glass. Un-clamp the glass (c/sunk allen bolts), and lift the glass, carefully, out of the runners.
Looking at the motor, you'll see fairly heavy gauge wiring to the motor itself and lighter wiring going to the encoder...both go to multi pin connectors.....Give both connectors (& encoder pcb) a spray with contact cleaner and try window lift rotary switch. It may work now!
Swapping the encoder for the new item is pretty straight forward.
....Also check the micro-switch behind the lock-plate on the B-post...Make sure the actuating lever is well located and the switch is being 'made' when the lock is closed. This switch 'tells' the window ecu the door is shut when it is electrically 'made',, and allows the window to be lifted to shut position.
Nick
nawarne said:
ILoveMondeo said:
....Also check the micro-switch behind the lock-plate on the B-post...Make sure the actuating lever is well located and the switch is being 'made' when the lock is closed. This switch 'tells' the window ecu the door is shut when it is electrically 'made',, and allows the window to be lifted to shut position.
Nick
Nick
nawarne said:
OK, you've got the door card off and the rubber damp membrane lifted/removed?
The glass and associated mechanism is in the fully 'open' position?
The encoder is held onto the top of the lift motor by a small machine screw. I think you need to remove the window glass - pretty easy - look at the bottom of the glass, and you'll see 2 off clamping devices that hold the glass. Un-clamp the glass (c/sunk allen bolts), and lift the glass, carefully, out of the runners.
Looking at the motor, you'll see fairly heavy gauge wiring to the motor itself and lighter wiring going to the encoder...both go to multi pin connectors.....Give both connectors (& encoder pcb) a spray with contact cleaner and try window lift rotary switch. It may work now!
Swapping the encoder for the new item is pretty straight forward.
....Also check the micro-switch behind the lock-plate on the B-post...Make sure the actuating lever is well located and the switch is being 'made' when the lock is closed. This switch 'tells' the window ecu the door is shut when it is electrically 'made',, and allows the window to be lifted to shut position.
Nick
Yes, to the present state, door off, rubber sheet lifted.The glass and associated mechanism is in the fully 'open' position?
The encoder is held onto the top of the lift motor by a small machine screw. I think you need to remove the window glass - pretty easy - look at the bottom of the glass, and you'll see 2 off clamping devices that hold the glass. Un-clamp the glass (c/sunk allen bolts), and lift the glass, carefully, out of the runners.
Looking at the motor, you'll see fairly heavy gauge wiring to the motor itself and lighter wiring going to the encoder...both go to multi pin connectors.....Give both connectors (& encoder pcb) a spray with contact cleaner and try window lift rotary switch. It may work now!
Swapping the encoder for the new item is pretty straight forward.
....Also check the micro-switch behind the lock-plate on the B-post...Make sure the actuating lever is well located and the switch is being 'made' when the lock is closed. This switch 'tells' the window ecu the door is shut when it is electrically 'made',, and allows the window to be lifted to shut position.
Nick
Hadn't noticed the glass would be that easy to get out! That would solve all my issues! Will finish my coffee and get out and get it sorted!
Thank you!
Milky400 said:
nawarne said:
ILoveMondeo said:
....Also check the micro-switch behind the lock-plate on the B-post...Make sure the actuating lever is well located and the switch is being 'made' when the lock is closed. This switch 'tells' the window ecu the door is shut when it is electrically 'made',, and allows the window to be lifted to shut position.
Nick
Nick
Thank you both!
ILoveMondeo said:
it was one of the door ECUs, swapped them over, moved the problem from left to right... more bits from racetech then...
...Just a heads-up, and if you can wait a while for repair, try these guys:www.electroversal.com
They repaired/checked my heater ecu a couple of weeks ago, cost about £50. Good service, and they say they test the pcb - - so I guess a test for functionality? Turn around time for the repair was about 6 working days.
Nick
There is also Paul Smith, a TVR electrics guru. He will have it fixed and back to you in days.
http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/
http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/
Seems these are pretty rare, Racetech dont seem to have them, and tvr-parts seems the only other place that do them on an exchange basis and not a hint of a second hand one on the interwebs!
Turns out I've got the slightly "rarer" ME0427 from the very early tuscans....
Thanks for the suggestions on repair! I'll give them a call next week.
Turns out I've got the slightly "rarer" ME0427 from the very early tuscans....
Thanks for the suggestions on repair! I'll give them a call next week.
S6 Devil said:
There is also Paul Smith, a TVR electrics guru. He will have it fixed and back to you in days.
http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/
Yep, I've used Paul before - repair to my mirror ecu and key-pad. Came across as helpful and knowledgeable (he is ex-factory). However, I emailed him with regard to the heater ecu repair....and didn't get a reply...tried 'phoning too. Think I've read on here that most of his business is with the TVR service dealerships now. http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/
At this point I used the search facility on here and dug out the reference to Electroversal in Luton. Previous poster had used them for heater controller repair, and was pleased with service...So 'phoned and organised the posting of heater ecu to them.
Nick
matt-man said:
Looks like we are having the same fun this weekend with windows! Glass is very easy to get out, bit of an awkward job to do...but isnt everything on the Tuscan?!
Out was about 30 seconds, Took me ages to get it back in and aligned in the runners properly! Still, Glad I finally found the issue.
http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-me...
this suggests its under the centre console, forward of the gear lever. i shall have a look and play tomorrow.
this suggests its under the centre console, forward of the gear lever. i shall have a look and play tomorrow.
yup, centre console.
There's a bolt under the ash tray and one at the back under the air vent.
May be two screws on the "wings" of the trim under the window controls on yours too. Should just lift off easily enough then.
Two ECU's are large black boxes, size of two packs of fags at a guess... you cant miss them. Easily disconnected and swapped over to test.
ETA it;s likely the part number will be written somewhere on the box of tricks too, mine was hand written on a bit of masking tape stuck to it!
Also, ETA, they are "behind" as in towards the rear of the car, the gear stick and hand brake. Where your elbow would be if you were resting your hand on the gear stick.
There's a bolt under the ash tray and one at the back under the air vent.
May be two screws on the "wings" of the trim under the window controls on yours too. Should just lift off easily enough then.
Two ECU's are large black boxes, size of two packs of fags at a guess... you cant miss them. Easily disconnected and swapped over to test.
ETA it;s likely the part number will be written somewhere on the box of tricks too, mine was hand written on a bit of masking tape stuck to it!
Also, ETA, they are "behind" as in towards the rear of the car, the gear stick and hand brake. Where your elbow would be if you were resting your hand on the gear stick.
Edited by ILoveMondeo on Wednesday 20th July 13:05
Found em. Such a large box to do what?
Put the working one on the non working door and it worked hey presto. ECU.
Put the non working ecu on the other door, and boom that worked too!. Put it back on the original door and it worked but was slow. Did it a few times and now both doors are working great.
FFS about 4 hours faffing and all i need was to disconnect the ecu. Only took 5 min to get at it...
Put the working one on the non working door and it worked hey presto. ECU.
Put the non working ecu on the other door, and boom that worked too!. Put it back on the original door and it worked but was slow. Did it a few times and now both doors are working great.
FFS about 4 hours faffing and all i need was to disconnect the ecu. Only took 5 min to get at it...
I'm guessing it's all hand built electronics hence the size, probably all components soldered to a board by hand, and then stuck in what appears to be a massive heat sink.
My understanding is they take the input from the door switches, window winders and window optical sensors/encoders, to work out where the window is, and where it needs to be based on opening/closing door and input from the occupants.
Weird it just started working again, perhaps a slightly dodgy connection on the plug, may be inside the unit too so it could come back. At least you know where it is now.
I seem to think mine started with "sluggish" opening/closing of the door and also the window, then stopped working altogether. Fingers crossed it keeps working.
Cheers
Dave
My understanding is they take the input from the door switches, window winders and window optical sensors/encoders, to work out where the window is, and where it needs to be based on opening/closing door and input from the occupants.
Weird it just started working again, perhaps a slightly dodgy connection on the plug, may be inside the unit too so it could come back. At least you know where it is now.
I seem to think mine started with "sluggish" opening/closing of the door and also the window, then stopped working altogether. Fingers crossed it keeps working.
Cheers
Dave
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