oil leak advice
Discussion
... think that need to go over the UK. 
They can be pulled and replaced but... the cover always feels fragile to me so care on knocking in. The bearings are plain and the front one is lubricated via the shaft. The small hole in the picture Matti has posted is the drain hole back into the timing case. The front end of this shaft that is outside of the cover gets all manner of junk and debris on it so before you start pulling the seal clean this up, maybe run an emery pad carefully while the engine is running otherwise you are likely to have a contamination problem on reassembly, clean with a magnet and solvents after. If the bearing has lift then it is an engine out, probably only feel this when the chain tension is off.
Check the pillow block and bearing on the tail end of this shaft before you start and that the cap head in the centre is not leaking as this is a plug on the oil way where it is drilled in manufacture, just in case.
J
Check the pillow block and bearing on the tail end of this shaft before you start and that the cap head in the centre is not leaking as this is a plug on the oil way where it is drilled in manufacture, just in case.
J
After some research, I think it's possible from some videos that I have watched, to remove it "easily" the question is: I can drive like it is for the moment, I hope not to make it worse. Because if so long way distance to tow over the UK. Thank you for all the inputs.
So sorry that in here I can't find anyone to "properly" work on the Tuscan.
Last story:
Bought the decats 50€, went the 2 mechanics: they asked 350 euros to remove them and they need the best mechanic to learn to work on the car a 4 hours job they said. "This kind of car we need to learn how to work on it, since it's a TVR 100€/hour" straight in my mind, I was saying: ok I will charge you 300€ to let your mechanic learn on my car. So I will do it myself.
So sorry that in here I can't find anyone to "properly" work on the Tuscan.
Last story:
Bought the decats 50€, went the 2 mechanics: they asked 350 euros to remove them and they need the best mechanic to learn to work on the car a 4 hours job they said. "This kind of car we need to learn how to work on it, since it's a TVR 100€/hour" straight in my mind, I was saying: ok I will charge you 300€ to let your mechanic learn on my car. So I will do it myself.
The Aux shaft seal can be replaced in situ, used to fit them quite often. Carefully tapping it in to get it started then using a correct size socket to slide over auxshaft on to outer edge of seal then using prybar against chassis tube to lever on socket to push seal in. Cleanup auxshaft 1st with scotchbrite and use oil or grease to lube seal as it goes on. De-cats should take no longer than an hour to fit on a ramp.
helderteixeira said:
After some research, I think it's possible from some videos that I have watched, to remove it "easily" the question is: I can drive like it is for the moment, I hope not to make it worse. Because if so long way distance to tow over the UK. Thank you for all the inputs.
So sorry that in here I can't find anyone to "properly" work on the Tuscan.
Last story:
Bought the decats 50€, went the 2 mechanics: they asked 350 euros to remove them and they need the best mechanic to learn to work on the car a 4 hours job they said. "This kind of car we need to learn how to work on it, since it's a TVR 100€/hour" straight in my mind, I was saying: ok I will charge you 300€ to let your mechanic learn on my car. So I will do it myself.
Can't you drive up to Torqueflyte up Derry way and get them to do it all in one hit. There a decent enough outfit. So sorry that in here I can't find anyone to "properly" work on the Tuscan.
Last story:
Bought the decats 50€, went the 2 mechanics: they asked 350 euros to remove them and they need the best mechanic to learn to work on the car a 4 hours job they said. "This kind of car we need to learn how to work on it, since it's a TVR 100€/hour" straight in my mind, I was saying: ok I will charge you 300€ to let your mechanic learn on my car. So I will do it myself.
Hi,
After a closer look, it seems that the oil seal was recently replaced. Does the screw comes out alone or together with the pulley? It's so rusty when I have tried to undo the screw, the head of the screw will break. Can the pulley and the screw be replaced in situ? He oil leak is coming from the oil seal, I think is because the pulley is so rusty that can end up damaging the oil seal, looking around it seems that oil seal have no marks... But the oil is coming out from the lower position from the oil seal. What's the best approach?![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/er8sqRJT.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/CNkwIEqy" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/CNkwIEqy.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/CNkwIEqy" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/CNkwIEqy.jpg)
After a closer look, it seems that the oil seal was recently replaced. Does the screw comes out alone or together with the pulley? It's so rusty when I have tried to undo the screw, the head of the screw will break. Can the pulley and the screw be replaced in situ? He oil leak is coming from the oil seal, I think is because the pulley is so rusty that can end up damaging the oil seal, looking around it seems that oil seal have no marks... But the oil is coming out from the lower position from the oil seal. What's the best approach?
Ummmhhh, interesting earthing point that has been added, think I would move that off the timing case, but the oil leak first.
The cap head screw is in there to fill the end of the hole that is drilled to feed oil from the rear shell bearing in the block along the shaft to the front shell bearing. You will gain nothing by removing this. The outer part of the seal is a dust/debris seal, the rear part of the seal that runs on the shaft further back inside the timing case cover controls the oil, this is the part with the ring spring to maintain contact.
The seal in your picture, it is hard to be sure, doesn't look as though it is seated fully. Anyway you will need to dig this out and fit a new one, the shaft has a chain sprocket machined as part of it so you will not be able to withdraw the shaft unless you take the timing cover off and remove the chain.... that is really an engine out unless you do a Petrolhead Pete and work in the engine bay and remove the cover, he has written a good guide for this.
Good luck, I don't envy you on this one, it is possible though as earlier post refers.
J
The cap head screw is in there to fill the end of the hole that is drilled to feed oil from the rear shell bearing in the block along the shaft to the front shell bearing. You will gain nothing by removing this. The outer part of the seal is a dust/debris seal, the rear part of the seal that runs on the shaft further back inside the timing case cover controls the oil, this is the part with the ring spring to maintain contact.
The seal in your picture, it is hard to be sure, doesn't look as though it is seated fully. Anyway you will need to dig this out and fit a new one, the shaft has a chain sprocket machined as part of it so you will not be able to withdraw the shaft unless you take the timing cover off and remove the chain.... that is really an engine out unless you do a Petrolhead Pete and work in the engine bay and remove the cover, he has written a good guide for this.
Good luck, I don't envy you on this one, it is possible though as earlier post refers.
J
Bloody hell that does look rough!!! Screw does not need to come out, I would clean the aux shaft up a bit, emery cloth and wire brush. but the important part is under seal lip and slightly stepped up in diameter, thats the bit that needs carefull scotchbriting and deburing of any small nicks before new seal is driven back in
Gassing Station | Tuscan | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff