Code Diagnostic E
Discussion
I've been getting code diagnostic E for a while whenever stationary. I can see this is related to the fuel level sensor not activating zero according to the code.
Has anybody here experienced this and know the fix? I assume it's a new fuel level sensor required, however that in itself seems absolutely fine and the error goes as soon as i start moving again.
Has anybody here experienced this and know the fix? I assume it's a new fuel level sensor required, however that in itself seems absolutely fine and the error goes as soon as i start moving again.
I believe it's the micro switch that's activated by the ally 'quadrant' that uncovers the graduations on the fixed part of the dash.
You'll notice that on key to 'IGN' the quadrants on temp and fuel level gauges flick to zero and then to 'actual' reading. If the quadrant movement doesn't trigger the micro-switch (i.e. the switch doesn't make) then you get the error code (tamp and/or fuel level).
It's not an expensive part, but requires the PCB stack to be de-mounted and the front part to be lifted to expose the switches, and a new one soldered in. The switches are a maplins item.
Nick
You'll notice that on key to 'IGN' the quadrants on temp and fuel level gauges flick to zero and then to 'actual' reading. If the quadrant movement doesn't trigger the micro-switch (i.e. the switch doesn't make) then you get the error code (tamp and/or fuel level).
It's not an expensive part, but requires the PCB stack to be de-mounted and the front part to be lifted to expose the switches, and a new one soldered in. The switches are a maplins item.
Nick
I've had Code C & Code E pretty much since I bought the car nearly 3 years ago. I was told it was a pod issue (spurious warning) and would need it sending away which potentially could intoduce more faults than it cures (for the Code C anyway). That could have been duff advice and sounds like its a simple microswitch defect for the E per nawarne's advice. I've had no running issues and its been serviced 3 times.
Its on the long list behind new cat, front end respray and impending clutch
Its on the long list behind new cat, front end respray and impending clutch
You need to remove the speedo but you do not have to remove the PCBs from the back of it for codes C to F.
To get to these micro switches you have to split the two alloy parts of the speedo which is more a case of having the guts, than technical knowledge, as they are only held in line by two role pins. The two parts are clamped and held together when the whole assembly is screwed into the dashboard.
The parts that you need are 161-6640 which is the micro switch and 161-6684 for the arm (pack of 5) from RS Components.
The arm could be re-used from the old one but it will most likely be damaged when you remove it so for the cost of a new one it is not worth it.
The switch is loosely glued onto its locating pins so will need prising off.
There was just enough wire to reasonably easily de-solder and re-solder the new switch in situe.
To get to these micro switches you have to split the two alloy parts of the speedo which is more a case of having the guts, than technical knowledge, as they are only held in line by two role pins. The two parts are clamped and held together when the whole assembly is screwed into the dashboard.
The parts that you need are 161-6640 which is the micro switch and 161-6684 for the arm (pack of 5) from RS Components.
The arm could be re-used from the old one but it will most likely be damaged when you remove it so for the cost of a new one it is not worth it.
The switch is loosely glued onto its locating pins so will need prising off.
There was just enough wire to reasonably easily de-solder and re-solder the new switch in situe.
chimyellow said:
You need to remove the speedo but you do not have to remove the PCBs from the back of it for codes C to F.
To get to these micro switches you have to split the two alloy parts of the speedo which is more a case of having the guts, than technical knowledge, as they are only held in line by two role pins. The two parts are clamped and held together when the whole assembly is screwed into the dashboard.
The parts that you need are 161-6640 which is the micro switch and 161-6684 for the arm (pack of 5) from RS Components.
The arm could be re-used from the old one but it will most likely be damaged when you remove it so for the cost of a new one it is not worth it.
The switch is loosely glued onto its locating pins so will need prising off.
There was just enough wire to reasonably easily de-solder and re-solder the new switch in situe.
Out of interest, do you know what the fix is for the Code C ?To get to these micro switches you have to split the two alloy parts of the speedo which is more a case of having the guts, than technical knowledge, as they are only held in line by two role pins. The two parts are clamped and held together when the whole assembly is screwed into the dashboard.
The parts that you need are 161-6640 which is the micro switch and 161-6684 for the arm (pack of 5) from RS Components.
The arm could be re-used from the old one but it will most likely be damaged when you remove it so for the cost of a new one it is not worth it.
The switch is loosely glued onto its locating pins so will need prising off.
There was just enough wire to reasonably easily de-solder and re-solder the new switch in situe.
Ta
Exactly the same but the other side.
Codes C and D are temperature gauge.
Codes E and F are fuel gauge.
The micro switches are the same part for both.
Forgot to mention above that when you separate the two parts there are some cables that need to be disconnected so go carefully.
For anyone interested Codes A and B are for the speedo. Same micro switch but to get to it you have to peel of the speedo face which is held in place by a soft glue (you do not have to separate the two metal parts).
This also assumes that it is the micro switch which is at fault. Check all plugs firs.
Codes C and D are temperature gauge.
Codes E and F are fuel gauge.
The micro switches are the same part for both.
Forgot to mention above that when you separate the two parts there are some cables that need to be disconnected so go carefully.
For anyone interested Codes A and B are for the speedo. Same micro switch but to get to it you have to peel of the speedo face which is held in place by a soft glue (you do not have to separate the two metal parts).
This also assumes that it is the micro switch which is at fault. Check all plugs firs.
Maplin doesn't recognise those part numbers but they are stocked at RS Components, are these the right ones:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microswitches/161664...
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microswitch-levers/1...
Can't find any instructions for pod removal on the forum, is it obvious and more importantly are there any risks to be aware of other than what you have pointed out. I own a soldering iron but that's about the limit of my qualification in electronics
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microswitches/161664...
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microswitch-levers/1...
Can't find any instructions for pod removal on the forum, is it obvious and more importantly are there any risks to be aware of other than what you have pointed out. I own a soldering iron but that's about the limit of my qualification in electronics
Removing the pod is straight forward if you take it slowly.
There are two screws at the back on the top part. Remove these and the top will lift off, however it may be glued or fixed at the top. When you lift it off there will be two or three plugs that attach it to the cover (shift lights, windscreen wiper delay and dashboard dimmer if fitted)
Remove the big plug at the back which has two clips (you can only see the top one)
Remove the two plugs for the lights and dash control switch on the ends of the ribbon cables. These can be a bit delicate so be gental.
There the two screws each side that hold the support brackets to the back of the display. Followed by four screws (from memory at least are stand offs) which hold the speedo to the back of the front of the dashboard.
Carefully lift the speedo (with the PCBs) out, you might have to gently pride the two support brackets apart and turn the speedo on its side to get it out. Watch out for the glass as mine is quite loose and could fall out if nudged.
It is more straightforward to do that type.
Removal is the reverse.
There are two screws at the back on the top part. Remove these and the top will lift off, however it may be glued or fixed at the top. When you lift it off there will be two or three plugs that attach it to the cover (shift lights, windscreen wiper delay and dashboard dimmer if fitted)
Remove the big plug at the back which has two clips (you can only see the top one)
Remove the two plugs for the lights and dash control switch on the ends of the ribbon cables. These can be a bit delicate so be gental.
There the two screws each side that hold the support brackets to the back of the display. Followed by four screws (from memory at least are stand offs) which hold the speedo to the back of the front of the dashboard.
Carefully lift the speedo (with the PCBs) out, you might have to gently pride the two support brackets apart and turn the speedo on its side to get it out. Watch out for the glass as mine is quite loose and could fall out if nudged.
It is more straightforward to do that type.
Removal is the reverse.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that to split the two speedo metal parts to get to the micro switch you have to remove the speedo needle which is held on by a small Allen headed grub screw. You can turn the needle by turning the white plastic worm drive screw easily with you fingers. Do not try and turn the needle as you might damage it.
Thread resurrection time....
So i finally got around to doing this today, remarkably straight forward thanks to the advise given above. However unfortunately i'm still getting the error, does anybody know if i need to clear the codes with a laptop or similar, alternatively what else could cause the fault?
So i finally got around to doing this today, remarkably straight forward thanks to the advise given above. However unfortunately i'm still getting the error, does anybody know if i need to clear the codes with a laptop or similar, alternatively what else could cause the fault?
The particular erros are dash errors and not ECU ones, so plugging in a laptop won't help you. Might be worth seeing if you can get a multimeter to the switch and make sure it's actually being triggered (or just check to make sure that the screw or whatever should be hitting it actually is, or looks like it is...).
I can hear it clicking so know the cover is sweeping correctly and making contact. Think i'll have to have it out again and make sure the other end of the wires are still attached properly onto the PCB. Does anybody know if it's a switched ground the contact makes, or should there be a measurable voltage?
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