Clutch Slave cylinder

[matt-man]

Hi guys,

EDIT - MASTER CYLINDER!!! not sure why i typed slave cylinder but can't edit the title.

Had the Tuscan out this week and it was getting more difficult to get into gear towards the end of the journey. It is perfectly drivable but just more notchy and reverse in particular was a pain (had to do lots of gears before it would play ball) so I think something's up clutch wise.

It was changed less than 10k ago so I doubt it would be fingers (here's hoping!)

Had a quick look at the master cylinder and under the cover there was a small bit of liquid which I am pretty sure is brake fluid so think the slave is on the way out (and I've read they are a weak point)

Anyone done this and can explain the best process? It looks like absolute pig of a job just because it's where it is. Why on earth it's designed like that I'll never know...

Does the pedal box need to come out\be removed?

Thanks!

Edited by matt-man on Friday 10th March 21:27

[m4tti]

I'd dry that fluid out with kitchen towel and work the pedal and see if there's anymore visible signs of it.

What your describing, needing to work through the gears to reverse, presumably 3rd, 4th, 5th then reverse could very well be the clutch.

It's not the amount of miles that ultimately determines the clutch, it can be the type of driving. Lots of stop start, work hardens the fingers.

[matt-man]

I will do that before I order one up. Strange thing is when cold it's fine but once it gets warm it seems to get worse. Might just need a bleed....

[tofts]

I've seen leaky masters that work perfectly well. Your symptoms sound fingers/slave orientated.

Not definitive but if there is brake fluid on the bottom of the bell housing, it's skave. If none then suspect clutch fingers or master. But I would bet my strong arm it's slave or fingers!

[Basil Brush]

Getting worse when warm does sound like the fingers. If you press and hold down the clutch whilst keeping trying it in and out of gear and it gets worse then could be fluid leak.

If it is the master then it's a bit fiddly but it can be done without taking the pedal box out.

The fingers can fail pretty quickly if the pedal travel isn't set properly. The clutch should only just release at full travel otherwise they get over stressed.

Edited by Basil Brush on Sunday 12th March 22:53

[matt-man]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Have bled it (the fluid was pretty nasty) but I expect I might be in for a bill.

Will try and get it out this week for a quick drive and if it's not good news then get it booked in.

Just picked it up from having a load of work at APM but he didn't notice the clutch being a problem on the drive out he did to get the alignment done. Had the throttle bodies rebuilt through tvr parts and it runs beautifully!