For the love of Tuscan (project build)

[Modrich]

Pedal box strip down

The first part to come loose when removing the pedal box is the brake pedal switch and bracket as this is held in place by the pedal box to chassis bolts. As you can see there is quite a bit of corrosion to the aluminium bracket around the fixing holes due to the stainless chassis bolts used (in my case anyway) to hold it all in place. This is the first time I've come across how aggressive corrosion is between aluminium and stainless steel due to the metals being far apart on the periodic table. The aluminium literally starts to dissolve as it's converted into aluminium sulphate powder.



This has also started to happen to the back of aluminium pedal box cover where, again stainless bolts have been used, I have cleaned this off in the pic below...


The brake light switch will be replaced by one with a much more robust level that is incorporated into the switch as opposed to the 'add-on' arm of the original. These switches are just a couple of quid from eBay. Search eBay for 'Short Roller Lever V3 Microswitch SPDT 16A Micro Switch' or item 282116447726.



Next up is to remove the E-clips from the ends of the 2 pins/pivots that hold the pedals and arms in place then slide the pins out and remove everything from the pedal box housing.



Leaving a very rusty housing ready to be cleaned-up and dropped off along with the aluminium cover at Able Platers in Livingston for re-plating/anodising...

Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 20:13

[sct_w4]

Just done my pedal box, no where near as bad as yours. I went for the curved pedals and some new stainless braided flexi lines from Hel. Racetech have an offer on stainless shafts, original servo and the clutch master cylinder I think.

[Modrich]

Cool looks spot-on mate.

I tried contacting Autobarn Engineering on their twitter page weeks ago but had no response and haven't found any other way to contact them. Where did you get your curved pedals from and how much?

The shafts are in surprisingly good condition so no need to replace them, one of them feels like Titanium??!! Just need new E-clips. Everything else has cleaned-up nicely. The brake master cylinder was new in 2019 and the clutch master looks pretty new as well. It had £6k spent on it in 2019 and has only done 400miles since.

I wouldn't mind using flexible hoses when I re-fit the box as I'm going to make it adjustable so it's less of a ball ache getting it in the right position. Is there a specific HEL kit for the Tuscan? I can only find brake lines...

Edited by Modrich on Sunday 4th December 22:54

Edited by Modrich on Sunday 4th December 22:55

[mk1fan]

You can try Autobarn's facebook page - https://en-gb.facebook.com/groups/1649639611815791...

Need to refurb my pedal boxes so back to Racetech for stainless bits

[Modrich]

Not looking good Mk1fan, tried facebook: 'Posting in this group has been temporarily paused'

[sct_w4]

I got the ‘mk1’ versions from him years ago, he does a ‘Mk2’ version of the curved pedals with strengthening ribs. He is active on Instagram as I tagged him a couple of days ago and had a response.

Hel have a custom line maker online where you can input connections, angles, thread size etc. I believe they are all 10x1, or i sent them my pedal box lines with a covering letter stating requirements to allow for adjustment, quick phone call from them to confirm and a week later delivered. Can’t remember the full cost but definitely under £100, which is expensive but she’s worth it

[TwinKam]

It's great that HEL offer the facility, but it's not difficult to make these lines yourself... then you can have exactly what you want, and at a fraction of the cost.

[mk1fan]

Modrich said:

Not looking good Mk1fan, tried facebook: 'Posting in this group has been temporarily paused'

Let me email him and point him this way.

[Modrich]

Cheers, you're a gent

[Modrich]

TwinKam said:

It's great that HEL offer the facility, but it's not difficult to make these lines yourself... then you can have exactly what you want, and at a fraction of the cost.

That's got me thinking TwinKam, I'm a dab hand at crimping I take it all you need is the crimp tool, some braided line and fittings?

[TwinKam]

Modrich said:

TwinKam said:

It's great that HEL offer the facility, but it's not difficult to make these lines yourself... then you can have exactly what you want, and at a fraction of the cost.

That's got me thinking TwinKam, I'm a dab hand at crimping I take it all you need is the crimp tool, some braided line and fittings?

No crimping or 'special' tools required, the fittings assemble onto the hose with an olive between the teflon pipe and the stainless over braid, tightened between male & female threaded parts, much like a domestic 15 or 22mm plumbing compression fitting.
The trickiest bit is cutting the braid neatly and opening it up to insert the olive. Thereafter it's just a two spanner job, or a soft jaw vice and spanner if you're being particular. Important not to over tighten. The fittings are reusable so you can always practice first, and also shorten a hose later to get a neater appearance.

[Modrich]

That's handy, I'm a dab hand at plumbing as well I'll see if youtube has any how to vids to get me started. Thanks TwinKam

[Modrich]

BTW what are the fittings called?

[TwinKam]

Modrich said:

BTW what are the fittings called?

Look for TFE hose, eg 600 series from Goodrich, or Aeroquip, they're the big names, beware of cheap copies, deal with an established stockist. I've always used 'Think Automotive' and found them to be very helpful with advice over the phone too. '-3' is the size hose you want for the hp brake lines although some go larger for the lp feeds. The fittings will simply be called 'reusable', choice of materials, you'll want bzp or stainless, not aluminium. Obviously pick the threaded ends to fit your cylinder, male, female, swivel, angled... and m-m, m-f or f-f adapters are also available, just make sure that they state they're for braking systems, very satisfying when you get your head around it.
I have an old 'Think Automotive' paper catalogue that I find much handier than scrolling online and also has assembly illustrations, but I'm sure there's plenty of pics, advice and tutorials online as you say.

[Modrich]

Brilliant, thanks TwinKam I'll get stuck into that

[Modrich]

I've got stacks of updates to post, trying to sort through them when I have time...

Pedal box re-build

The pedal box and cover are back from the platers.




The base is quite pitted because of how rusty it was but it was just surface so hasn't lost any strength and looks almost like new now. The aluminium cover plate is also looking great but the areas of wear and surface scratches show through the anodising, the only way to have achieved a perfect uniform finish would have been to have had it polished first but the platers don't offer that service.

Anyway, on to the rebuild. I used lithium grease on the spindles for a nice smooth pedal action...



1st row in place


This is the spindle that looks and feels like Titanium?? It's very light and rigid and totally corrosion free, but doesn't look or feel like aluminium or stainless...




As I will be fitting a start-stop button I have fabricated a bracket for a clutch switch...


I then changed my mind on how to fix the clutch switch bracket in place so removed the upright tabs and drilled/threaded the base plate, used the same method for the brake switch bracket as the chassis bolt holes won't be used as I'm making it adjustable.



I used a generous coating of silver Hammerite on the pedal box base and on the aluminium switch brackets to help reduce future corrosion...

Next up the pedal box sliders...

Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 20:27

[mk1fan]

Emailled him a linky to this thread. I understand he has one set of pedal in stock - not sure if mk1 or mk2 version.

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Modrich said:

Cheers, you're a gent

Hi,

MK1 just emailed me.

I do the curved pedals,

looking back I don't have twitter, so must be a different AutobarnEngineering. I do have a instagram.

Also on FB I disenabled posts from members to try and keep it uncluttered, most people just reply to a relevant post, or send me a PM.

Send me a email to "tvrleigh at Gmail.com", or contact me on FB as above.

let me know here if you have a problem and I'll keep an eye out.

regards
Leigh

[Modrich]

Thanks guys, Leigh you have mail

[Modrich]

Pedal box slider rails.

So, this is how I made the pedal box slider rails to allow easy longitudinal adjustment. The pedal box has 3 positions from the factory but you need to unbolt it from the chassis each time you want to adjust it and this way is less of a faff...

A pair of stainless steel sheet metal angles, laser cut from eBay.


Slots cut with grinding wheel...


RivNuts fitted to the side of the pedal box


Stainless bolts welded to angles for easy fixing to the floor. I'm a little rusty at welding, I've not done much since my apprentice fabrication/welding days at Senior Hargreaves so go easy...



Rails fitted




From the factory the pedal box is hard up against the RH sill so I've had to offset it to the left by about 10mm to allow clearance for the adjustment bolts on the RH side. This gives about 80mm of adjustment once bolted in place, but you can still use the 3 sets of bolt holes in the floor to bring closer to your range of movement. Just need to get it back in the car and test it now...

Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 20:34