Novice attempting gearbox removal!
Discussion
Hi all,
I'm on my second stint at Tuscan ownership and am attempting to remove my gearbox for rebuild purposes.
Ive removed the exhausts and centre console (gearshift shaft grub screw isn't playing ball - trying to drift this out but may have to wait untill i lower the 'box for better access) and and now staring at the prop-shaft wondering the best/easiest way to remove the bolts at the diff end - assuming this is what i need to tackle first!? There is a chassis cross brace that makes access more ticky (car is on axle stands at rear & jacking ramps at front).
Any assistance would be most grateful :-)
I'm on my second stint at Tuscan ownership and am attempting to remove my gearbox for rebuild purposes.
Ive removed the exhausts and centre console (gearshift shaft grub screw isn't playing ball - trying to drift this out but may have to wait untill i lower the 'box for better access) and and now staring at the prop-shaft wondering the best/easiest way to remove the bolts at the diff end - assuming this is what i need to tackle first!? There is a chassis cross brace that makes access more ticky (car is on axle stands at rear & jacking ramps at front).
Any assistance would be most grateful :-)
Edited by Steve Devaney on Saturday 2nd March 18:05
Done this on the ground many times.
You need the car up high on stands, like high at the front and if possible 12" under the wheels at the back.
Prop shaft, yep gotta come out, mark the flanges with a marker/paint, just so you get same location again, bolts are only accessible one at a time, rotate and lock with handbrake etc. Catch the oil when you slide the shaft from the box. Gear lever, I take the four bolts out and lift lever complete. One is F tricky and a flexy socket helps. The box will not come out with lever in me thinks.
I get a stout hex key on a 1/2" drive (impact hex if you have one) and remove the four bolts that hold the gearbox to the bellhousing, they will take serious cracking off as they corrode in, you will need decent 1/2" drive and extensions (my Snap on 3/8 stuff screams at me when I try this so I use 1/2" drive) to do this, but this saves removing starter, hydraulic clutch line and all the air box etc to reach the top bell housing bolts, also the box is easier to handle without the bell housing. Gearbox mountings are in need of better access, the cotton reels have spacer washers that will fall out, I replace with C washers and slide in after.
You can get the bellhousing off with the clutch line still attached, it is good to put back in this order as the operation of the clutch can be checked.
Check my previous posts, like years back, I have done hours of work on the clutches and have my own opinions on failure/fixes.
If the engine mounts are shagged the engine will fall back and hit the bulkhead, check this. When you take the gearbox mount off keep a trolley jack under the box and let off slowly.
Good luck and use decent stands.
You need the car up high on stands, like high at the front and if possible 12" under the wheels at the back.
Prop shaft, yep gotta come out, mark the flanges with a marker/paint, just so you get same location again, bolts are only accessible one at a time, rotate and lock with handbrake etc. Catch the oil when you slide the shaft from the box. Gear lever, I take the four bolts out and lift lever complete. One is F tricky and a flexy socket helps. The box will not come out with lever in me thinks.
I get a stout hex key on a 1/2" drive (impact hex if you have one) and remove the four bolts that hold the gearbox to the bellhousing, they will take serious cracking off as they corrode in, you will need decent 1/2" drive and extensions (my Snap on 3/8 stuff screams at me when I try this so I use 1/2" drive) to do this, but this saves removing starter, hydraulic clutch line and all the air box etc to reach the top bell housing bolts, also the box is easier to handle without the bell housing. Gearbox mountings are in need of better access, the cotton reels have spacer washers that will fall out, I replace with C washers and slide in after.
You can get the bellhousing off with the clutch line still attached, it is good to put back in this order as the operation of the clutch can be checked.
Check my previous posts, like years back, I have done hours of work on the clutches and have my own opinions on failure/fixes.
If the engine mounts are shagged the engine will fall back and hit the bulkhead, check this. When you take the gearbox mount off keep a trolley jack under the box and let off slowly.
Good luck and use decent stands.
Thanks Sagi Badger for your comprehensive reply!
I will follow your step-by-step guide and will let you know how i progress. I've got a pretty decent set of tools.
Do you work the bolt heads on the prop shaft (unlikely due to sockets not passing the spider) or do you maniulate a spanner (9/16?) on the diff side nuts? Its very tight there so i don't want to be rounding anything!
Yes, the four gearstick bolts look fun, so I'll stick the kettle on and limber up......
Thanks again it is very much appreciated. 👍
I will follow your step-by-step guide and will let you know how i progress. I've got a pretty decent set of tools.
Do you work the bolt heads on the prop shaft (unlikely due to sockets not passing the spider) or do you maniulate a spanner (9/16?) on the diff side nuts? Its very tight there so i don't want to be rounding anything!
Yes, the four gearstick bolts look fun, so I'll stick the kettle on and limber up......
Thanks again it is very much appreciated. 👍
Have you seen Tuscan Tales on YouTube? Rob has completely dismantled is Tuscan on film to do a chassis refurb.
https://youtube.com/@tuscantales?si=vEPgTfuRbYoUns...
https://youtube.com/@tuscantales?si=vEPgTfuRbYoUns...
Yes, am an avid watcher of Rob's vids - he's a chemp!
Unfortunately, it's a little different with the body being off (far better access) and there is only so much detail that he can go into.
I will be having another session in the garage tomorrow so will update with, hopefully, some progess! :-)
Unfortunately, it's a little different with the body being off (far better access) and there is only so much detail that he can go into.
I will be having another session in the garage tomorrow so will update with, hopefully, some progess! :-)
TwinKam said:
There is a special (LandRover) socket that makes removal of 9/16" AF prop shaft bolts a breeze.
I have a Britpart one but I see that Laser Tools now do them, part number 6151, under £20 from Machine Mart, Halfrauds etc
I'm still waiting for the tool to arrive.I have a Britpart one but I see that Laser Tools now do them, part number 6151, under £20 from Machine Mart, Halfrauds etc
Do you pop that onto a ratchet gun or hand ratchet - on the bolt head (accessible) - and just lock the rear facing nut with a 9/16 open-ended spanner as a ring spanner will not pass the bolt which is only a few mm from the domed diff' plate?
Is it advisable to replace the four nuts and bolts once removed or are they safe to be reused (assuming i don't rotund them!?)
👍
Correct re removal technique.
The bolts are re useable,
You don’t need that tool if you have suitable sockets extension bar and Ratchet.
If for some reason they are very tight a proper rattle gun or breaker bar might help.
They are not normally torqued up that tight from what I can remember and as long as you keep the spanner square on to the nuts it should be relatively easy to undo them.
Get a plastic bag and rubber band. Pop that on the end of the gearbox to stop oil coming out once you pull prop out.
Actually I think I just shoved a rag into gearbox come to think about it but the bag technique is a good one if the car is left rear end down or for any length of time.
The bolts are re useable,
You don’t need that tool if you have suitable sockets extension bar and Ratchet.
If for some reason they are very tight a proper rattle gun or breaker bar might help.
They are not normally torqued up that tight from what I can remember and as long as you keep the spanner square on to the nuts it should be relatively easy to undo them.
Get a plastic bag and rubber band. Pop that on the end of the gearbox to stop oil coming out once you pull prop out.
Actually I think I just shoved a rag into gearbox come to think about it but the bag technique is a good one if the car is left rear end down or for any length of time.
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 7th March 06:22
Sagi Badger said:
When you get it back, fit the gear lever and watch the reverse light switch operation, if poorly positioned the bracket can lock you in 5th. You will see what I mean, then you will know what to look for when you put it back in the car.
Noted, SB.I know exactly what you are refering to! I took plenty of pictures of the bracket position in the hope to hit the spot on reassembly.
I really appreciate the heads up......keep keeping watch over me 😁
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