Tuscan Non-Starting

Tuscan Non-Starting

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UncleDave

Original Poster:

7,155 posts

231 months

Monday 4th March
quotequote all
I've dropped a post on Facebook about this so apologies if anyone has seen it already - but good old PH is the wealth of knowledge bow

I know it's a pain in the arse to diagnose remotely but just wondered if anyone has any ideas/suggestions.

Symptoms were:

- Last few months or so it would start and run fine, then cut out once red hot (literally after an hour or more of driving). It would 'kangaroo' for a few minutes before it eventually died - almost like the fuel or spark was being totally cut for a split second.

- Eventually it would die completely and not restart until it's cooled.

- Now it seems the issue has progressed and it won't start at all - even from completely cold! Fuel pump primes ok, engine turns and starts for a second then just cuts out (attached scope of 2 attempted starts).

It's has already had:
New Fuel Pump, Relay and Filter
New Coil Pack
Big fat earth lead from battery to engine to try and rule that out.
100A Fuses seem to be fine
Recently changed plugs and leads.
Starter is fine.

  • Just* noticed a Lambda Sensor flash red on for a split second but surely that wouldn't cause the car not to start totally?
I did notice that both sensors were around 0.9V, then upon starting Cyl 456 would shoot up to 1.5V and 123 stays around 0.9V - but both sensors still seem to "react" similarly on the scope. I'd just change the lambda sensors too but I just can't understand how the hell they'd cause the car not to start at all - and I've already thrown enough parts at it it'd be easier to buy a new car hehe



Thanks in advance!

S6PNJ

5,182 posts

281 months

Monday 4th March
quotequote all
Sorry, can't really help other than to suggest looking for a dry joint (solder) somewhere, maybe in the ecu or pin connections as if it only happens when warm, it could be something expanding (less likely to be air / fuel as you can rule that out through diagnostics etc.
Where on FB have you posted it? I'm in the Tuscan group and can't see it there - is there another group I'm not seeing?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/828469707180573/

UncleDave

Original Poster:

7,155 posts

231 months

Monday 4th March
quotequote all
S6PNJ said:
Sorry, can't really help other than to suggest looking for a dry joint (solder) somewhere, maybe in the ecu or pin connections as if it only happens when warm, it could be something expanding (less likely to be air / fuel as you can rule that out through diagnostics etc.
Where on FB have you posted it? I'm in the Tuscan group and can't see it there - is there another group I'm not seeing?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/828469707180573/
It's there a few days ago (3d) It'd just so boring it's probably been pushed down the algorithm hehe

Appreciate that! Starting to wonder if it is ECU related now to be honest....

s6boy

1,625 posts

225 months

Tuesday 5th March
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I've read of similar symptoms and although seemingly fine it turned out to be the 100a fuse which had cracked. If you just did a visual/continuity check it must be worth trying a new one.

PetrolHeadPete

743 posts

189 months

Tuesday 5th March
quotequote all
Lambdas arent supposed to output more than about 1V. Odd!

If you are minded, try the "carb-cleaner" test. Puff a small bit direct into throttle bodies and watch the lambdas. Should go rich (1V) for a brief second then settle back to 50:50 between 0.x and 1.0V. Need to be quite accurate to not x-contaminate between cylinders.

The fact its failing at hot suggests something like an air leak? or a lambda failing I suppose but they run so hot all the time that seems less likely.

Sagi Badger

590 posts

193 months

Sunday 10th March
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Ummhh,

Its raining and I am on the web... OK, over voltage could be an earth on the loom either in the harness just under the heat shrink or where the ring tag bolts to the top of the block at the back.

Q. does it smell of petrol? do you have a spark? have you tried running it on Easi-start (don't laugh but you eliminate fuel or spark in time with one puff of the jallop)

So is it fuel or spark in time?

If it runs rough, I would (esp. as you are seeing odd things on screen), in order... Check ring tag earth (solder the wire in as well, crimp will be old now), check harness earth, just cut it open and you will find a group of black wires soldered together, (get some self amalgamating tape to repair) check the engine bay harness connector, like clean the pins properly, check the crank sensor, I have seen these too far in and the end shaved off!!! or flapping about loose where bolt gone AWOL. Check ECU is not wet, I dried one out that was ringing wet, worked fine after... true

I did have a funky set of symptoms years ago where the Novram chip battery had died and it couldn't store any adaptives. Found by chance and bingo new chip and away it went .