Clever Trevor LCD Display replacement
Discussion
Following several months of driving around being unable to read my LCD display, finally got around to ordering new screen from Clever Trevor.
With a very speedy next day service my new screen arrived, and after only an hour of fairly straight forward DIY, I had a superb new very bright LCD display again.
During my first drive, it was just like the car was talking to me again, fantastic.
If anyone else is suffering with a similar problem with their POD, I highly recommend this fix, I just wish I hadn't waited so long.
Big thanks to Keith at Clever Trevor for solving the problem.
With a very speedy next day service my new screen arrived, and after only an hour of fairly straight forward DIY, I had a superb new very bright LCD display again.
During my first drive, it was just like the car was talking to me again, fantastic.
If anyone else is suffering with a similar problem with their POD, I highly recommend this fix, I just wish I hadn't waited so long.
Big thanks to Keith at Clever Trevor for solving the problem.
It's a really easy job, so here goes.
Pod Out:-
Two screws to be removed to take off top cover of the POD, one either side.
Once top cover is lifted up three cable connectors need to be disconnected, one which controls back light level of dash, one for change up lights, and one for intermitent wipe. All easily disconnected and easy to identify and re connect.
Once pod cover removed, I removed 2 x screws from LHS bracket holding alluminium pod surround, just to gain some room to manouevre.
Then,4 x screws that connect pod to alloy surround, easily identifiable.
Then disconnect main plug at rear (squeeze top and bottom clip and pull backwards)and 2 more cables connecting front alloy surround to pod. Again really easy to identify.
Now Pod is ready to remove by gently rotating and manouevering around brackets.
Once out of car, with use of medium sized phillips screwdriver and adjustable spanner, remove screws and spacer/nuts to slowly remove each layer of circuit board (4 in total). Once you have removed screws just gently pull apart. Not difficult at all.
Finally, the last circuit board is the one with the screen attached, and four phillips screws later its out.
Install new card and then re insert all the other cards. (Battery in one of the cards retains all info, i.e. mileage etc)
The re installation process is a simple reversal of the above and very straight forward.
To do the whole job, I needed one medium sized phillips screwdriver and a medium sized adjustable spanner, plus 1 hour of spare time. Take it steady pulling the circuit boards apart and you will have no problems.
If you have any questions, please PM me, not a problem.
Bishy
Pod Out:-
Two screws to be removed to take off top cover of the POD, one either side.
Once top cover is lifted up three cable connectors need to be disconnected, one which controls back light level of dash, one for change up lights, and one for intermitent wipe. All easily disconnected and easy to identify and re connect.
Once pod cover removed, I removed 2 x screws from LHS bracket holding alluminium pod surround, just to gain some room to manouevre.
Then,4 x screws that connect pod to alloy surround, easily identifiable.
Then disconnect main plug at rear (squeeze top and bottom clip and pull backwards)and 2 more cables connecting front alloy surround to pod. Again really easy to identify.
Now Pod is ready to remove by gently rotating and manouevering around brackets.
Once out of car, with use of medium sized phillips screwdriver and adjustable spanner, remove screws and spacer/nuts to slowly remove each layer of circuit board (4 in total). Once you have removed screws just gently pull apart. Not difficult at all.
Finally, the last circuit board is the one with the screen attached, and four phillips screws later its out.
Install new card and then re insert all the other cards. (Battery in one of the cards retains all info, i.e. mileage etc)
The re installation process is a simple reversal of the above and very straight forward.
To do the whole job, I needed one medium sized phillips screwdriver and a medium sized adjustable spanner, plus 1 hour of spare time. Take it steady pulling the circuit boards apart and you will have no problems.
If you have any questions, please PM me, not a problem.
Bishy
For those of you who are not confident to change the screen yourself we offer 2 options. You can send the whole instrument pod to us and we will change the screen or with prior arrangement it can be a drive in, wait and drive away all done. (We will also supply the screens mail order). Our screens are the Clever Trevor version.
By the way, and if anyone is interested...Racing Green also do them, either as a part or fitted...I needed mine doing as it kept getting more and more horizontal lines going across them.
I'm pretty sure they are just under £90 + vat for the parts...I had mine fitted for £209 + vat, which included the screen.
hth
LB
I'm pretty sure they are just under £90 + vat for the parts...I had mine fitted for £209 + vat, which included the screen.
hth
LB
I also suffer from the LCD screen having missing lines. The weird thing is that they are intermittent with a perfect display on some days and it being virtually illegible on others. The key issues for me are:-
1) What is the failing component here and is it sevirceable (e.g. do the ribbon wire connections need cleaning or something)? It just seems strange that if the fault is intermittent then it ought to be able to be fixed. I could understand, if it was permanent, say, if the printed circuit board had failed.
2) Assuming it isn't serviceable (and there has been a previous post to that effect), is the "clever-trevor" version different to the built-up replacement pod version? I don't want to spend £1-200 on a fix to have it reappear in a couple of years time.
I'd appreciate any feedback on these.
1) What is the failing component here and is it sevirceable (e.g. do the ribbon wire connections need cleaning or something)? It just seems strange that if the fault is intermittent then it ought to be able to be fixed. I could understand, if it was permanent, say, if the printed circuit board had failed.
2) Assuming it isn't serviceable (and there has been a previous post to that effect), is the "clever-trevor" version different to the built-up replacement pod version? I don't want to spend £1-200 on a fix to have it reappear in a couple of years time.
I'd appreciate any feedback on these.
Gassing Station | Tuscan | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff