Warning - Battery Charge Point
Discussion
No word on the Tuscan yet. It took Elephant a week or two to get an engineer out so I think the work was delayed. I can't wait to get it back though as driving a Ka, even with all four wheels again, isn't quite the same. The duke isn't taxed or MOT'd either so I can't even make up for it with that.
As I'm not using their repairer I don't get a replacement. Not really a problem as long as nobody else decides to nick anything from the run around.
I spoke to the repairers today and the body is going back on the chassis today. Apparently a fair bit of damage underneath so had to be stripped completely. Another week or so and it should be done.
I spoke to the repairers today and the body is going back on the chassis today. Apparently a fair bit of damage underneath so had to be stripped completely. Another week or so and it should be done.
I'm letting them sort it. The only bit of the chassis I was aware needed sorting before this were the usual rails next to the manifolds/cats. As the fire did most of it's damage in that area anyway it should be covered. I'm guessing with the amount of work involved it must have been getting on for a write off decision.
I had to change the engine mount last night and found the lead from the battery to the anderson connector completly corroded off at the connector, it was just laid next to the chassis 
I then took the connector off to replace it and.....
Im actually glad the lambda sensor and engine mount needed doing now!
Please go check yours, i had been putting it off.
I then took the connector off to replace it and.....
Im actually glad the lambda sensor and engine mount needed doing now!
Please go check yours, i had been putting it off.
I saw exactly the same thing on a Tamora last week....very scarey 
... apparantly it was resting on the chassis...it was only the fact it was so badly corroded that it wasn't shorting out. The owner had obviously never used it, but the car had a full service history from main dealerships.
... apparantly it was resting on the chassis...it was only the fact it was so badly corroded that it wasn't shorting out. The owner had obviously never used it, but the car had a full service history from main dealerships.Edited by glow worm on Saturday 11th April 14:50
Whitey said:
Nice one Basil Brush! Are you happy with the work? Do you know what they actually did?
Engine and box out, body off, a couple of the outer chassis tubes replaced around the battery area, repaint chassis, repair/repaint big bonnet where the heat had damaged it & fit new scuttle panel. All the heatshields have been replaced, including fitting the later one next to the cats, which is a bonus, plus other bits and pieces such as the lambdas.I need to have a look at a couple of bits this weekend before I'm sure it's ok but glad to have it back.
Update.
Did a safety check on a friend's Tuscan today (03 'S') and:-
The whole thing took three hours.
Did a safety check on a friend's Tuscan today (03 'S') and:-
- while the main battery cable did have heat protection
- it wasn't tight to the chassis (loose near the manifold)
- it didn't have a battery clamp and
- the Anderson connector was cracked to buggery and the terminals were badly corroded!
The whole thing took three hours.
nelly1 said:
Update.
Did a safety check on a friend's Tuscan today (03 'S') and:-
The whole thing took three hours.
Niell Did a safety check on a friend's Tuscan today (03 'S') and:-
- while the main battery cable did have heat protection
- it wasn't tight to the chassis (loose near the manifold)
- it didn't have a battery clamp and
- the Anderson connector was cracked to buggery and the terminals were badly corroded!
The whole thing took three hours.
Thanks for the tip, checked mine on Saturday (2001 S) and as you say above, the connector was cracked/shattered not as bad as the picks above but nether the less cracked. The terminals were also very corroded inside. Connector has now been completly removed along with the wirering.
Just hope the battery don't go flat before I get a new one fitted
Thanks again mate
Steve
P.S will arrange for a beer soon!!
Nice one Steve 
TBH I don't think it's worth replacing. At all.
It's too much of a weak point and therefore risk for something that, when you actually need it you either won't have the right leads, they'll be locked in the boot, or it'll be too corroded to make a proper contact anyway.
There's always 'that' way in if you get stuck, and there's always the option of removing the wheel and jump starting in the conventional manner.
Inconvenient I know, but that's why you pay for RAC cover...and it's a damn sight more convenient than a mass of melted glass-fibre that used to be your car.
BTW, was your battery clamped down in any way?
TBH I don't think it's worth replacing. At all.
It's too much of a weak point and therefore risk for something that, when you actually need it you either won't have the right leads, they'll be locked in the boot, or it'll be too corroded to make a proper contact anyway.
There's always 'that' way in if you get stuck, and there's always the option of removing the wheel and jump starting in the conventional manner.
Inconvenient I know, but that's why you pay for RAC cover...and it's a damn sight more convenient than a mass of melted glass-fibre that used to be your car.
BTW, was your battery clamped down in any way?
nelly1 said:
Nice one Steve
TBH I don't think it's worth replacing. At all.
It's too much of a weak point and therefore risk for something that, when you actually need it you either won't have the right leads, they'll be locked in the boot, or it'll be too corroded to make a proper contact anyway.
There's always 'that' way in if you get stuck, and there's always the option of removing the wheel and jump starting in the conventional manner.
Inconvenient I know, but that's why you pay for RAC cover...and it's a damn sight more convenient than a mass of melted glass-fibre that used to be your car.
BTW, was your battery clamped down in any way?
'That way in' has been fine for me for the last two times I have needed it, however when I really need it to work it goes U/S. Really embarrassing not being able to get the car out of the container in Sydney and then having to force a way in so that it can be moved out. Still not got customs clearance - Grrrr. TBH I don't think it's worth replacing. At all.
It's too much of a weak point and therefore risk for something that, when you actually need it you either won't have the right leads, they'll be locked in the boot, or it'll be too corroded to make a proper contact anyway.
There's always 'that' way in if you get stuck, and there's always the option of removing the wheel and jump starting in the conventional manner.
Inconvenient I know, but that's why you pay for RAC cover...and it's a damn sight more convenient than a mass of melted glass-fibre that used to be your car.
BTW, was your battery clamped down in any way?
Do have another set of the right leads - if they will work ! You are right that the first set are in the boot - DOH ! New set will be kept behind the seats. Also have a new battery just in case so hopefully can get the paperwork clearance started. Has cosy A$350 just to get through customs
May be back on the road by end July but possible option of a track day even if not road legal 
Edited by Bob the Planner on Tuesday 9th June 11:00
nelly1 said:
Nice one Steve
TBH I don't think it's worth replacing. At all.
It's too much of a weak point and therefore risk for something that, when you actually need it you either won't have the right leads, they'll be locked in the boot, or it'll be too corroded to make a proper contact anyway.
There's always 'that' way in if you get stuck, and there's always the option of removing the wheel and jump starting in the conventional manner.
Inconvenient I know, but that's why you pay for RAC cover...and it's a damn sight more convenient than a mass of melted glass-fibre that used to be your car.
BTW, was your battery clamped down in any way?
NiellTBH I don't think it's worth replacing. At all.
It's too much of a weak point and therefore risk for something that, when you actually need it you either won't have the right leads, they'll be locked in the boot, or it'll be too corroded to make a proper contact anyway.
There's always 'that' way in if you get stuck, and there's always the option of removing the wheel and jump starting in the conventional manner.
Inconvenient I know, but that's why you pay for RAC cover...and it's a damn sight more convenient than a mass of melted glass-fibre that used to be your car.
BTW, was your battery clamped down in any way?
There was a little L shaped piece of metal that was only a Token gesture of a bracket if you know what I mean, it was'nt actually doing anything but tbh I dont think the battery is going anywhere and it certainly has not moved since who ever put it in there, I have some 15mm wide zip ties so I just wrap a couple of them round as I did not like the idea of a "floating battery"
I agree with you in the fact that I probably won't bother replacing the connector
Have seen another thread on here somewhere like Bob the planners epidode, Just have to remember not to park to close to the wall or in a sea container if you its going to be for any length of time
Steve
UPDATE
Despite being kept on constant AccuMate charge, my battery died last week.
It was at least 5 years old. Oh well - never mind, these things happen...
I have therefore replaced it with a 'correct' one where the terminals are reversed from TVRs' original (ie. wrong!) design of having the positive less than one inch away from an earthed chassis next to a red-hot exhaust manifold!
The battery is this one..., which from the Tayna site (excellent service BTW) worked out 30 quid cheaper than Halfrauds, even with delivery.
This is what I had already fabricated (arrowed green) to replace the OEM TVR clamp - ie. ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!...
The new battery has a proper flanged body (as oppose to the original 'straight-sided' item), so I added an additional clamp which can be seen below (arrowed red)...
I now feel that this issue can be classed as "Sorted" on my car.
I would urge anyone who hasn't done something similar to
DO IT NOW!
Despite being kept on constant AccuMate charge, my battery died last week.
It was at least 5 years old. Oh well - never mind, these things happen...
I have therefore replaced it with a 'correct' one where the terminals are reversed from TVRs' original (ie. wrong!) design of having the positive less than one inch away from an earthed chassis next to a red-hot exhaust manifold!
The battery is this one..., which from the Tayna site (excellent service BTW
) worked out 30 quid cheaper than Halfrauds, even with delivery.This is what I had already fabricated (arrowed green) to replace the OEM TVR clamp - ie. ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!...
The new battery has a proper flanged body (as oppose to the original 'straight-sided' item), so I added an additional clamp which can be seen below (arrowed red)...
I now feel that this issue can be classed as "Sorted" on my car.
I would urge anyone who hasn't done something similar to
DO IT NOW!Edited by nelly1 on Tuesday 4th August 20:32
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