My 5th Sd1 - have I got a disease?
Discussion
The weather has not been good for the last few days. All the work is being done outside on the driveway so waiting for a nice day can take some time.
The stance of the car has been bugging me. The gap between wing and front wheels is almost a hand's width and 3 fingers at the rear. So removed the nearside strut to check I had assembled it correctly. All seemed good so refitted it. Pulled out the huge history files that came with the car and after looking at the dozens of Rimmers invoices it seems that previously, an owner had fitted Gaz adjustable shockers and 30 mm lower springs to the rear. However, at the front new standard inserts had been fitted along with standard springs
I'll order a pair of 30 mm lower uprated front springs from Rimmers after my hols next week. The inserts have plenty resisitance so I'll keep them. Hopefully I'll get the look I want.
The stance of the car has been bugging me. The gap between wing and front wheels is almost a hand's width and 3 fingers at the rear. So removed the nearside strut to check I had assembled it correctly. All seemed good so refitted it. Pulled out the huge history files that came with the car and after looking at the dozens of Rimmers invoices it seems that previously, an owner had fitted Gaz adjustable shockers and 30 mm lower springs to the rear. However, at the front new standard inserts had been fitted along with standard springs
I'll order a pair of 30 mm lower uprated front springs from Rimmers after my hols next week. The inserts have plenty resisitance so I'll keep them. Hopefully I'll get the look I want.Will look a lot better. And agree that lowering the front needs to be done.
Myself in general can't stand cars that are higher at the front then at the rear.
Originally had the bilstein pump-it-self-to-a-level shocks and got replaced as you cannot get them anymore.
Once our SD1 gets and 'overhaul' (RV8 etc) will include lowered springs and adjustable shocks to enjoy it on trackdays.
Until now the 2300-engine doesn't want to go pop, nothing will be done to it, except for to enjoy driving it and getting surprised looks from people
Yesterday in Brussels stood next to a 3500 vandenplas, Belgian plates LHD.
Waved at the couple in the SD1 and they were happily surprised and started looking and found out I was in a Rover 75 KV6
and had a smile from ear to ear! Rovers are still around even outside the UK.
Rob
Myself in general can't stand cars that are higher at the front then at the rear.
Originally had the bilstein pump-it-self-to-a-level shocks and got replaced as you cannot get them anymore.
Once our SD1 gets and 'overhaul' (RV8 etc) will include lowered springs and adjustable shocks to enjoy it on trackdays.
Until now the 2300-engine doesn't want to go pop, nothing will be done to it, except for to enjoy driving it and getting surprised looks from people
Yesterday in Brussels stood next to a 3500 vandenplas, Belgian plates LHD.
Waved at the couple in the SD1 and they were happily surprised and started looking and found out I was in a Rover 75 KV6
and had a smile from ear to ear! Rovers are still around even outside the UK.Rob
Good to hear they survive in Europe too. Had a look on How Many Left - https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/ and surprised to see just 6 Vitesse automatic cars registered for UK roads. There were 29 off road notifications.
Your story reminded me of when I collected my last car in Harrogate. It was a black SD1 3.5 manual and when I stopped at the lights in the town centre, people were stopping and staring. And when we parked up in a Knaresborough car park, a chap immediately started taking photos after asking permission. When we came back several people were stood around it. Amazing really.
You probably don't like the stance as your TVR will likely be the opposite, higher at the rear? My Chim is with the larger wheels.
Iain
Your story reminded me of when I collected my last car in Harrogate. It was a black SD1 3.5 manual and when I stopped at the lights in the town centre, people were stopping and staring. And when we parked up in a Knaresborough car park, a chap immediately started taking photos after asking permission. When we came back several people were stood around it. Amazing really.
You probably don't like the stance as your TVR will likely be the opposite, higher at the rear? My Chim is with the larger wheels.
Iain
Are you replacing the whole rear quarter or just the arch? The quarters are still available. The rears on mine are pretty good really but the fronts are a bit tatty. The worst part I have is the join between the rear panel and the boot floor. Rimmers have the panel but the floor will need to be fabricated. This is probably beyond my skill level. 
So finally got the TVR finished and off the driveway. Shiny new uprated and lowered front springs arrived from Rimmers so put them on yesterday afternoon. Car is level now although to some it may appear too high. However I don't want it too low as there are a lot of speed humps around here and need to keep a reasonable ride.
The brake fluid looked old and discoloured so a brake fluid change done. The rear bleed nipple was fairly tight but it came out okay. The difference in pedal firmness is amazing so probably some air was in the system.
Removed the chrome strips from the rear window rubber. There is an annoying water leak around the offside corner so that's my next job to apply some sealant between the rubber and the glass before refitting the trims.
Result! The owner of a local garage is going to Crufts for 2 days in March and has asked me to look after the garage for him. Wants me to open it up as usual to answer the phone and tell customers when he's back. So long as I work on the SD1 to 'do the harder to reach jobs'. That's sump gasket, extension tube front seal and the exhaust to fit and seal finally. Can't wait
The brake fluid looked old and discoloured so a brake fluid change done. The rear bleed nipple was fairly tight but it came out okay. The difference in pedal firmness is amazing so probably some air was in the system.
Removed the chrome strips from the rear window rubber. There is an annoying water leak around the offside corner so that's my next job to apply some sealant between the rubber and the glass before refitting the trims.
Result! The owner of a local garage is going to Crufts for 2 days in March and has asked me to look after the garage for him. Wants me to open it up as usual to answer the phone and tell customers when he's back. So long as I work on the SD1 to 'do the harder to reach jobs'. That's sump gasket, extension tube front seal and the exhaust to fit and seal finally. Can't wait
Had a scary few days with the oil pressure. I noticed the oil pressure gauge needle was always above 0 even when switched off, it should move to 0 from the extreme left, so took the dash apart and had a look. Someone had twisted the needle to make the oil pressure look higher 
Put it back to the correct position.
So now I'm thinking the engine is toast. Don't have a mechanical gauge to test it. Knowing that oil pressure senders are often poor ordered an aftermarket one (i.e. made in China) from Rimmers. The original type can be removed with the alternator still fitted (18mm spanner) but the aftermarket one needs a 34mm socket so off it came. Fitted the sender and fingers crossed. Reading went up to over 40psi - yes there is a God - then when I revved it up a little bit, the reading went to 0.
This is a common failure of the cheapy senders. Ordered another one, off with the alternator again and started her up. Oil pressure remained steady at 10psi.
It was all or nothing now and ordered a new gauge. Fitted it and turned the ignition on. The needle went to 0. So all or nothing started the engine. The reading climbed up to an indicated 45psi (cold engine) and after a couple of minutes revved it. The pressure climbed higher. Let it idle and the pressure remained above 30psi.
That was enough excitement for one day.
Put it back to the correct position.So now I'm thinking the engine is toast. Don't have a mechanical gauge to test it. Knowing that oil pressure senders are often poor ordered an aftermarket one (i.e. made in China) from Rimmers. The original type can be removed with the alternator still fitted (18mm spanner) but the aftermarket one needs a 34mm socket so off it came. Fitted the sender and fingers crossed. Reading went up to over 40psi - yes there is a God - then when I revved it up a little bit, the reading went to 0.
This is a common failure of the cheapy senders. Ordered another one, off with the alternator again and started her up. Oil pressure remained steady at 10psi.
It was all or nothing now and ordered a new gauge. Fitted it and turned the ignition on. The needle went to 0. So all or nothing started the engine. The reading climbed up to an indicated 45psi (cold engine) and after a couple of minutes revved it. The pressure climbed higher. Let it idle and the pressure remained above 30psi.
That was enough excitement for one day.Scary absolutely! Good it was only the sender.
Luckily the RV8s don't need a lot of pressure, it is flow. Always look for the oil pressure light, if out then ok. Gauges and the rest are 'nice to have'
Oil pressure relieve valve is another 'nice' item.... Will renew the spring and plunger on the 350i, just to be sure during the next oil change.
And changing the oil, as you know, don't leave the RV8 too long without it, as the oil pump is not self priming! Have a remote oil filter on the TVR and always pump oil from this remote in to the pump before putting the oil filter on, again to just to be sure and crank the engine without firing to check the light goes out. Better safe then sorry.
Rob
Luckily the RV8s don't need a lot of pressure, it is flow. Always look for the oil pressure light, if out then ok. Gauges and the rest are 'nice to have'
Oil pressure relieve valve is another 'nice' item.... Will renew the spring and plunger on the 350i, just to be sure during the next oil change.
And changing the oil, as you know, don't leave the RV8 too long without it, as the oil pump is not self priming! Have a remote oil filter on the TVR and always pump oil from this remote in to the pump before putting the oil filter on, again to just to be sure and crank the engine without firing to check the light goes out. Better safe then sorry.
Rob
Ha, you reminded me of my first SD1 V8. I sold it to a good mate (not a good idea BTW) and after a while he wanted me to fit a new camshaft. So, once I had done it, refilled with oil and started it, no oil pressure. He was absolutely foaming. Told him to bugger off and took the pump off, filled with good ol' Vaseline and oil pressure came back. No damage done for the few minutes running before.
I change the oil filter first, filling the new one with as much oil as possible and having it ready to swap over. Then I change the oil and fill up straightaway. Fortunately, on the later (Serp) engine in the Chim, this is not a problem.
If the weather stays dry, hope to get some sealant around the tailgate rubber to try and stop the small but annoying leak. Then its the interior, starting with the heater box as the ducting pipes are not fitted properly.
Oh what joy.....
I change the oil filter first, filling the new one with as much oil as possible and having it ready to swap over. Then I change the oil and fill up straightaway. Fortunately, on the later (Serp) engine in the Chim, this is not a problem.
If the weather stays dry, hope to get some sealant around the tailgate rubber to try and stop the small but annoying leak. Then its the interior, starting with the heater box as the ducting pipes are not fitted properly.
Oh what joy.....
For now having a crack at the interior. Both glove boxes out and then the centre console. Fairly straightforward other than the spaghetti wiring underneath. The lights for the auto-box gear lever were hanging down behind the carpet so that's why the little green positioning lights were not lit. Had a look around and the hose clips on the matrix look very new so hopefully that is a sign of good news i.e. a recent heater matrix. The dash bolts into the A pillar had clearly been disturbed so looks like it.
Not so good was finding the letterbox that covers the blower motor was missing. Some bodge tape and a thin sheet of plastic had replaced it. Cut out a new one, drilled and fitted it.
Got some silicon vacuum pipe coming tomorrow and a new vacuum tank. Once they are fitted I can test the heater box and fingers crossed it all works.
Need to get the badly over reading water temp gauge back into reality. Trying a 160 ohm resistor or a 180 to see if I can get the gauge to give a sensible reading. I can use my temperature gun as a reference.
Not so good was finding the letterbox that covers the blower motor was missing. Some bodge tape and a thin sheet of plastic had replaced it. Cut out a new one, drilled and fitted it.
Got some silicon vacuum pipe coming tomorrow and a new vacuum tank. Once they are fitted I can test the heater box and fingers crossed it all works.
Need to get the badly over reading water temp gauge back into reality. Trying a 160 ohm resistor or a 180 to see if I can get the gauge to give a sensible reading. I can use my temperature gun as a reference.
Been waiting for the weather to pick up. So, finished the ducting pipes from the heater box, fitted the new vacuum tank - 1983-on Defender with aircon has the same one as the SD1 so a straight fit. Warmed the engine then tried the blower on the different settings and at last, there is air blowing from the vents. The vacuum system is working so that's a bonus.
Tidied up and replaced some wiring for the cigarette lighters then refitted the centre console after giving it a good clean. A new ashtray finished that job. A test of the lights and the heater panel lights up after replacing the bulb for the fibre optic unit.
Gloveboxes cleaned up and refitted so starting to look half decent now.
Next job is to replace all the window switches and while the door cards are off, time to renovate the wood veneer which is faded. If the weather holds......
Tidied up and replaced some wiring for the cigarette lighters then refitted the centre console after giving it a good clean. A new ashtray finished that job. A test of the lights and the heater panel lights up after replacing the bulb for the fibre optic unit.
Gloveboxes cleaned up and refitted so starting to look half decent now.
Next job is to replace all the window switches and while the door cards are off, time to renovate the wood veneer which is faded. If the weather holds......
Nice sunny day so progress made. Dash all reassembled and refitted. So it at least looks like a car from the inside anyway. Door cards removed and after another look at the wood veneers, decided they weren't as bad as I remembered. Replaced all the window switches.
There has always been a small annoying leak from the tailgate and finally traced it to a poor seal in the screen rubber directly above the rear wiper. Cleaned out the old broken up seal and squirted some non setting sealant right under the rubber. See if it works.
Then a moment of panic. The brake fluid level had dropped a little since bleeding the brakes and a check of all the brakes showed no leak until I saw fluid dripping from the brake balance valve. I remembered that Rimmers did not sell the valve for the Vitesse but they helpfully found the part number. A quick Google and the same valve was used on Disco series 1 - Land Rover part number ANR 3194 - with Rimmers wanting £78+vat+ postage etc. LR Direct £59 delivered.
Rain forecast so no update tomorrow but a chance to test the sealant.
There has always been a small annoying leak from the tailgate and finally traced it to a poor seal in the screen rubber directly above the rear wiper. Cleaned out the old broken up seal and squirted some non setting sealant right under the rubber. See if it works.
Then a moment of panic. The brake fluid level had dropped a little since bleeding the brakes and a check of all the brakes showed no leak until I saw fluid dripping from the brake balance valve. I remembered that Rimmers did not sell the valve for the Vitesse but they helpfully found the part number. A quick Google and the same valve was used on Disco series 1 - Land Rover part number ANR 3194 - with Rimmers wanting £78+vat+ postage etc. LR Direct £59 delivered.
Rain forecast so no update tomorrow but a chance to test the sealant.
Well the butyl sealant did not work at all. So cleaned it all out - took forever as its very tacky - and brought out the trusty Sikaflex 221 which holds my Chimaera together. Carefully squeezed it right into the edge of the glass and pressed the seal down and left it. Lots bubbled out on to the screen but left it to dry. After 24 hours of rain and no leaks!
Just taken out insurance for the old girl and a 3,000 mile fully comp policy was £105. So no complaints.
The brake balance valve arrived today but ran out of time to fit it.
Just taken out insurance for the old girl and a 3,000 mile fully comp policy was £105. So no complaints.
The brake balance valve arrived today but ran out of time to fit it.
Decent weather for the last 2 days so onwards and upwards. Finally got around to fitting the home made immobiliser even though the insurance company was not bothered if it had one. Repaired the door seals which were doing the usual trick of separating with Loctite superglue. Also fitted a GPS type speedo I had lying about so hopefully will keep me from collecting speeding tickets.
The original horn manged a squeak at best so a pair of chrome plastic made in China air horns - 150 db - fitted.
The brake balance valve also fitted and the brakes bled up instantly.
Aiming to take it for its MOT just after Easter.
The original horn manged a squeak at best so a pair of chrome plastic made in China air horns - 150 db - fitted.
The brake balance valve also fitted and the brakes bled up instantly. Aiming to take it for its MOT just after Easter.
Edited by N7GTX on Monday 26th March 17:22
All plans went out the window with the crap weather. Haven't done a thing for ages. So decided to fix the rear axle extension housing leak. Propshaft disconnected then big hammer and out the shaft came. Circlips removed and then tap, tap, tap with the hammer to get the bearing off. Except I badly marked the surface where the seal sits
So looking around and not one to be found. Rang Rimmers for the part number and any suggestions of who might have one. Hang on they say, we'll have a look. They come back and say they have a second hand housing and shaft less the bracket. £60 sound okay? Too bloody right it does so it should be here in the morning. Phew....
Today noticed the second transmission sump pan seal was leaking So drain it out with the vacuum pump via the dispstick tube and remove, clean up and try this time with some Granville high temp sealant. Fingers crossed.
Took the opportunity to fit a new transducer for the speedometer while under there.
So looking around and not one to be found. Rang Rimmers for the part number and any suggestions of who might have one. Hang on they say, we'll have a look. They come back and say they have a second hand housing and shaft less the bracket. £60 sound okay? Too bloody right it does so it should be here in the morning. Phew....
Today noticed the second transmission sump pan seal was leaking
So drain it out with the vacuum pump via the dispstick tube and remove, clean up and try this time with some Granville high temp sealant. Fingers crossed.Took the opportunity to fit a new transducer for the speedometer while under there.
Check- auto sump not leaking.
The second hand extension housing and tube turned up at 9am today - excellent service from Rimmers. Stripped it all down as the bearing was fubar'd and the surface where the seal fits had some light corrosion. Polished it all up, reassembled and refitted.
Check - auto sump not leaking. So fill up to the mark.
Replaced the bottom hose (slight leak) made more difficult as there is a larger alternator fitted. Filled up and ran the engine for a good few minutes.
Check - auto sump not leaking.
Called it a day as the TVR needed some tidying up and the forecast is not good for a while.
The second hand extension housing and tube turned up at 9am today - excellent service from Rimmers. Stripped it all down as the bearing was fubar'd and the surface where the seal fits had some light corrosion. Polished it all up, reassembled and refitted.
Check - auto sump not leaking. So fill up to the mark.
Replaced the bottom hose (slight leak) made more difficult as there is a larger alternator fitted. Filled up and ran the engine for a good few minutes.
Check - auto sump not leaking.
Called it a day as the TVR needed some tidying up and the forecast is not good for a while.
A frustrating couple of days with everything going wrong now.
The rear windscreen is still leaking so bought some proper window sealant for cars. Spent a lot of time cleaning out the old stuff with a small screwdriver, cleaning, drying etc, Then spent an age applying a bead inside the rubber seal on the inside and outside. Once done, had to refit the chrome trim. Applied Fairy Liquid to both the groove and the chrome piece and amazingly it fitted very easily, just a simple press in. See if that fixes it.
The auto sump has started weeping again - getting fed up with this now. Got one last gasket left to try as it sits right above the exhaust so burning oil smell as it warms up.
Dash all refitted - straightened out the dash top by putting it in my old Workmate and leaving it squashed for a week. Then started on cleaning the interior which has made a difference.
Bodywork next.....
The rear windscreen is still leaking so bought some proper window sealant for cars. Spent a lot of time cleaning out the old stuff with a small screwdriver, cleaning, drying etc, Then spent an age applying a bead inside the rubber seal on the inside and outside. Once done, had to refit the chrome trim. Applied Fairy Liquid to both the groove and the chrome piece and amazingly it fitted very easily, just a simple press in. See if that fixes it.
The auto sump has started weeping again - getting fed up with this now. Got one last gasket left to try as it sits right above the exhaust so burning oil smell as it warms up.
Dash all refitted - straightened out the dash top by putting it in my old Workmate and leaving it squashed for a week. Then started on cleaning the interior which has made a difference.
Bodywork next.....
The proper windscreen sealant has done the job at last
Had another look at the auto leak and it may be the dipstick seal that's leaking and running along the box before dripping down. Or the selector shaft seal. Need to check that tomorrow.
Started on the offside rear corner where the corrosion is worst. Cut it all out and welded in some nice new steel. Bit of filling and smoothing tomorrow.
Had another look at the auto leak and it may be the dipstick seal that's leaking and running along the box before dripping down. Or the selector shaft seal. Need to check that tomorrow.
Started on the offside rear corner where the corrosion is worst. Cut it all out and welded in some nice new steel. Bit of filling and smoothing tomorrow.
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