Discussion
CDP said:
Liquid Knight said:
Had a "Rover" moment this morning the car refused to start. Turning over just fine and the smell of petrol meant it wasn't fuel delivery. Spare plug to find no spark at all. Hmmmmm, pulled the plugs; they were all fine. Checked the HT leads; again all good. 12.3V across the terminals of the coil pack; so dizzy cap off a bit of carbon in there so a quick clean and replace. Still no spark. 5:50AM on a Sunday morning so I can't ask anyone (and expect to talk to them ever again). So re-check everything. This time when I get to the coil pack it still had 12.3V going across it; until I turned the starter motor. Then it dropped to 0.0V! What the ?
Here's the cause of my being an hour late for work.....
"Sparkrite"? No spark at all while the bloody thing was connected. Grrrrr!
It was the first time I've had a car fail to start in years and it was good to get back to basics and trouble shooting, but it couldn't have happened on any of my days off could it?
So when it starts first time at -12 it's a Honda and when it fails to start it's a Rover?Here's the cause of my being an hour late for work.....
"Sparkrite"? No spark at all while the bloody thing was connected. Grrrrr!
It was the first time I've had a car fail to start in years and it was good to get back to basics and trouble shooting, but it couldn't have happened on any of my days off could it?
Liquid Knight said:
CDP said:
Liquid Knight said:
Had a "Rover" moment this morning the car refused to start. Turning over just fine and the smell of petrol meant it wasn't fuel delivery. Spare plug to find no spark at all. Hmmmmm, pulled the plugs; they were all fine. Checked the HT leads; again all good. 12.3V across the terminals of the coil pack; so dizzy cap off a bit of carbon in there so a quick clean and replace. Still no spark. 5:50AM on a Sunday morning so I can't ask anyone (and expect to talk to them ever again). So re-check everything. This time when I get to the coil pack it still had 12.3V going across it; until I turned the starter motor. Then it dropped to 0.0V! What the ?
Here's the cause of my being an hour late for work.....
"Sparkrite"? No spark at all while the bloody thing was connected. Grrrrr!
It was the first time I've had a car fail to start in years and it was good to get back to basics and trouble shooting, but it couldn't have happened on any of my days off could it?
So when it starts first time at -12 it's a Honda and when it fails to start it's a Rover?Here's the cause of my being an hour late for work.....
"Sparkrite"? No spark at all while the bloody thing was connected. Grrrrr!
It was the first time I've had a car fail to start in years and it was good to get back to basics and trouble shooting, but it couldn't have happened on any of my days off could it?
CDP said:
So when it starts first time at -12 it's a Honda and when it fails to start it's a Rover?
Nice one CDP .... Rover Owner selling his car said:
...The very powerful and reliable Honda turbo engine has never missed a beat...
Me interested in buying said Rover said:
If your Rover turbo has a Honda engine then I'm no longer interested in the car
Rover Owner selling his car said:
Wha ...?
Of course it had a Rover engine and the deal was done...Have done that on more than one occasion...
But, John, it must be a Honda engine it's so powerful and reliable .. stands to reason.
Yeah ... right ...
.
I like the 216 advertised on eBay with a "Tomcat" engine. I asked "is it a Tomcat or a 216?" and didn't get a reply.
Forgive the differensiation earlier the car does have the Honda derived engine and not the S series. I've owned three of those and vowed "never again". It's a personal preference based of previous experiences. Having said that none of the 216's tried to kill me before.
Forgive the differensiation earlier the car does have the Honda derived engine and not the S series. I've owned three of those and vowed "never again". It's a personal preference based of previous experiences. Having said that none of the 216's tried to kill me before.
Bad luck ..
Whenever I get a used car, even if it comes with two keys, for the sake of a few quid I get a spare. The cost is not much compared to the huge inconvenience having NO keys when they go missing. Yes even the chipped variety used in my 620ti which are about 30 quid a throw....
Not only that, when I buy a used car and it comes with only one fob, I get that duplicated sharpish. I have never lost or had car keys stolen but, several friends and relatives have and the resulting aggravation they have had is something I hope I never have to face. For a relatively small 'safety' outlay, money well spent.
.
Whenever I get a used car, even if it comes with two keys, for the sake of a few quid I get a spare. The cost is not much compared to the huge inconvenience having NO keys when they go missing. Yes even the chipped variety used in my 620ti which are about 30 quid a throw....
Not only that, when I buy a used car and it comes with only one fob, I get that duplicated sharpish. I have never lost or had car keys stolen but, several friends and relatives have and the resulting aggravation they have had is something I hope I never have to face. For a relatively small 'safety' outlay, money well spent.
.
Uncle of the year award goes to......
....someone else. As I have just shown my nephews how to do this....
...gone in sixty seconds eh?
After the worlds most disappointing Merc' and my keys being taken I hotwired the car for some retail therapy....
..I'll be looking at Montego/Maestro Rover 200/400/600 locks and barrels to see if they'll fit.
....someone else. As I have just shown my nephews how to do this....
...gone in sixty seconds eh?
After the worlds most disappointing Merc' and my keys being taken I hotwired the car for some retail therapy....
..I'll be looking at Montego/Maestro Rover 200/400/600 locks and barrels to see if they'll fit.
LK ~ visited a local ( Glos ) Breaker yard this afternoon and noticed this C-Reg 216 Vp. The Ignition key was present and it worked. I removed the key and placed it into the driver's door pocket otherwise it may go astray or someone break it off just for fun.
Complete with Haynes manual ... :~
If you want further information, send pm.
MGJ.
Complete with Haynes manual ... :~
If you want further information, send pm.
MGJ.
That VDP looks worth saving. Being a pre-facelift one they're aren't many left out of the 160-odd series one Rover 200s left in the UK. The barren looked salvagable until I tried to straighten it and it cracked.
Bought one of these for now.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
Bought one of these for now.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
Swaped wheel cylindars today.
Remove the wheel and drum as normal.
Take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and push the pistons away from the shoes with screw drivers.
Undo and remove the retaining bolts and brake line from the back of the cylindar and tap loose.
Once removed inspect the backing plate for damage and rust.
Put the new cylindar in place and push the pistons in the same was as before. This reduced the amount of air in the system to save bleeding later.
Reconnect the brake line and bolt the cylindar in place.
When you remover the screw driver spacers the pistons shoud withdraw slowly to mee the shoes.
Replace the drum and bleed the brakes as normal.
This is why they needed changing....
...the one that didn't leak was siezed.
Finally I was prety pleased with myself and bought some Jaffa Teacakes.
They're rubbish.
Adding this photo for my other forum.
Remove the wheel and drum as normal.
Take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and push the pistons away from the shoes with screw drivers.
Undo and remove the retaining bolts and brake line from the back of the cylindar and tap loose.
Once removed inspect the backing plate for damage and rust.
Put the new cylindar in place and push the pistons in the same was as before. This reduced the amount of air in the system to save bleeding later.
Reconnect the brake line and bolt the cylindar in place.
When you remover the screw driver spacers the pistons shoud withdraw slowly to mee the shoes.
Replace the drum and bleed the brakes as normal.
This is why they needed changing....
...the one that didn't leak was siezed.
Finally I was prety pleased with myself and bought some Jaffa Teacakes.
They're rubbish.
Adding this photo for my other forum.
Edited by Liquid Knight on Tuesday 1st November 12:01
Liquid Knight said:
That VDP looks worth saving. Being a pre-facelift one they're aren't many left out of the 160-odd series one Rover 200s left in the UK. The barren looked salvagable until I tried to straighten it and it cracked.
Bought one of these for now.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
Looks like 44K miles. May well be a scrapage car..Bought one of these for now.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
Liquid Knight said:
Swaped wheel cylindars today.
Remove the wheel and drum as normal.
Good work LK. I get more pleasure breathing new life into an old car than taking delivery of a new one! Over the years, both private purchases and company cars, numbers around three dozen new cars I guess.Remove the wheel and drum as normal.
Good pictures .... keep 'em coming.
Liquid Knight said:
Shame ~ what a disappointment ~ they look double tasty ....
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