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Brummmie
Original Poster
4,227 posts
90 months
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Hi guys,
What is the brake master cylinder from,
Is it Ford escort from the 90's?
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tvrgit
7,944 posts
121 months
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According to the Alternative Parts list here http://www.alexjudd.com/cerbera/parts/#Brake%20mas...It's Fiesta Mk 2 XR2 or 1.6 Ghia. I think that the Mk3 Fiesta is the same (note sure but I know that fits the S-Series with exactly the same servo) As it says on that site, there are two bore diameters, make sure you get the bigger one.
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GT6k
181 posts
31 months
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Good to see you got home OK yesterday Brummie and thanks for the loan of the slicks. I could have done with floats and oars on the way home.
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scotty_d
5,652 posts
63 months
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It is also a Ford connect Van as well as the above 22mm Diameter IIRC.
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Brummmie
Original Poster
4,227 posts
90 months
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GT6k said: Good to see you got home OK yesterday Brummie and thanks for the loan of the slicks. I could have done with floats and oars on the way home. No Problem, was good to go out in an original one as a point of reference!  Thanks for the advice guys, i am going to get a new one fitted this week before something nasty happens.
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ridds
6,543 posts
113 months
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Has anyone fitted the smaller diameter one? What are the results?
Also are there not issues with having to use an adaptor to allow the pressure pipe to fit due to differing threads?
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FarmyardPants
2,244 posts
87 months
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Brummmie said: No Problem, was good to go out in an original one as a point of reference! What did you think of it Brum, as a matter of interest?
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Brummmie
Original Poster
4,227 posts
90 months
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A smaller master cylinder will give a longer pedal but more power, does the 4.5 run the smaller one then? It would give more feel theoretically, as the 4.5 runs bigger discs and i run bigger still this might be an interesting experiment? The stock 4.5 was good, alot more friendly than mine to drive i suspect, but mine is so fast its terrifying, especially if you are not used to it. I gave Dobbie on here a blast in mine and it was faster than he thought it was going to be, and he thought his shoulders might be bruised from the harness's as the brakes are so fierce, but after 3 laps i suspect the master cylinder has finally given up the ghost, as it was taking 5 or 6 pumps to get any brakes, at every corner!! 
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ridds
6,543 posts
113 months
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Sorry, got clutches on the brain at the moment and was thinking it was that.  Your brake description is exactly how mine is on track, starts fine then just gradually gives up. Does it get worse as the laps go on or does your pedal behave like that all the time now.
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Jhonno
749 posts
10 months
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Fresh decent fluid? What pads? If the master was failing it would need pumping all the time.
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ridds
6,543 posts
113 months
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Well this is what I was thinking. Mine has behaved how Brummie describes for ages. I put it down to boiling fluid but even fresh CL fluid still did the same.
Changed my braking method (was being a girl and braking early and gently vs late and hard) allowing plenty of cool down time between corners but it still does it.
But perhaps I have a failing master cylinder.... Although my experience of a failing master is as you describe, always spongy and requires pumping unless you press hard and fast as this fires the seals out straight away.
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Brummmie
Original Poster
4,227 posts
90 months
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Pads are new and the best! Fluid is new, brake lines are new...
This has been a problem all year and getting steadily worse, funny thing is yesterday i got around 6 laps before failure, i then bled through with brand new fluid and it lasted 3 laps, and the worst failure yet, every corner even when coasting back to the pits needed 5-6 pumps.
Pedal comes back after a few minutes, i have even heat gunned the calipers at failure and fronts are 255C rears are 190C, fluid boils at 325C.
And 3 laps is no where near enough to boil them
I am thinking that bleeding them took even more edge off the seal hence quicker failure than before. You just cant replicate those conditions on road.
Job looks a complete pig to do, but this is THE last thing it can be.
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ridds
6,543 posts
113 months
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Please keep me posted on this Brummie as this is EXACTLY the problem I have ad for 2-3 years now. It has spoilt many a trackday only being able to get 3-4 laps before all confidence in having anything under your right foot disappears! However, if it is the master cylinder I'm not going to be happy!! 
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Brummmie
Original Poster
4,227 posts
90 months
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Forgot to add, i have ducted the brakes too, from the front grill and into a semi sealed area bolted off the upright, and an alloy plate that fits snugly inside the disc, just like a proper race car, didnt make any difference... 
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ridds
6,543 posts
113 months
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Hmmm, that was my next point of call, ducting.
Better add a BRAKE master cylinder to the list as well!!
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ridds
6,543 posts
113 months
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This One Cheaper than the £130+ the TVR parts suppliers want. Who needs the reservoir.
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Brummmie
Original Poster
4,227 posts
90 months
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ridds said: This OneCheaper than the £130+ the TVR parts suppliers want. Who needs the reservoir. You can put the original reservoir back in though?
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ridds
6,543 posts
113 months
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I know, I guess the £75 extra from TVR part people is for the reservoir. 
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tvrgit
7,944 posts
121 months
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Brummmie said: You can put the original reservoir back in though? Yes it just pops out then you click it into the new one.
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Jhonno
749 posts
10 months
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A lot of heat in the engine bay though also.. Did you temp gun in there? Masters do fail I guess.. Maybe the heat is thinning the fluid down enough to weep past the older seals a bit..
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