Clunk Clunk Every Trip
Discussion
Had a quick search as well but no joy.
I did mine last winter with the diff out, So unsure if you can do it with the diff in situ.
I used a reciprocating air saw to cut the center out, carefully cut through the metal part and knock it out with a drift
The front 2 mounts are easy as you can work at them on the bench.
I believe some people used a puller type tool but the above worked well for me.
I did mine last winter with the diff out, So unsure if you can do it with the diff in situ.
I used a reciprocating air saw to cut the center out, carefully cut through the metal part and knock it out with a drift
The front 2 mounts are easy as you can work at them on the bench.
I believe some people used a puller type tool but the above worked well for me.
The first time I did mine (body on) I had to chisel the bush out. Rather than burning the rubber out so close to the bodywork I heated up an old screwdriver to red hot with a blowtorch and used that to burn out the central tube. Once that is out you can get most of the rubber out by the same method. I then ground a triangular point on a long bit of rebar and fed it in through the wheelarch so the point was between the chassis tube and the metal outer sleve of the rubberless bush. Smacking the end of the rebar with a sledge hammer eventualy folded the bush sleve (hence the triangular point). Make sure your bar is long enough that you won't hit the wing if you miss the bar!!!
If I'd had access to one I reckon an air chisel would have been a lot easier.
If I'd had access to one I reckon an air chisel would have been a lot easier.
Edited by Tanguero on Tuesday 9th October 21:08
It is a straight forward job, but however prepared you are, you will end up using swearing, very loudly at various points in the removal process!
There are various methods and tools available, but I found using a socket on one side of the bush and a nut and bolt passed through the lot and tightened up the best way to pull out the inner bush tube. This also means you do not have to use a flame. I then cut 2 slots through the remaining rubber using a hack saw with the 2nd cut going through the rubber and metal bush casing. Once you have cut through the metal case of the bush, you should only need to tap it and it will fall out.
You can then use the boly and socket arrangement to pull the new (probably poly) bush into place.
Hope the above makes sense and helps!
There are various methods and tools available, but I found using a socket on one side of the bush and a nut and bolt passed through the lot and tightened up the best way to pull out the inner bush tube. This also means you do not have to use a flame. I then cut 2 slots through the remaining rubber using a hack saw with the 2nd cut going through the rubber and metal bush casing. Once you have cut through the metal case of the bush, you should only need to tap it and it will fall out.
You can then use the boly and socket arrangement to pull the new (probably poly) bush into place.
Hope the above makes sense and helps!
Even with the body off, it's the b
h arse job from hell!!!
I ended up using a combination of foul language, long drift, more foul language, big hammer, brute force, saw, blow torch, ice pack, even more foul language... You get the picture!
I tried a combination of heat/burning & drifting but it was quite literally going nowhere (the hammer/hand/chassis interface didn't help either)! What eventually worked was drifting out the rubber, cutting the metal sleeve and then drifting that out.
M
h arse job from hell!!!I ended up using a combination of foul language, long drift, more foul language, big hammer, brute force, saw, blow torch, ice pack, even more foul language... You get the picture!
I tried a combination of heat/burning & drifting but it was quite literally going nowhere (the hammer/hand/chassis interface didn't help either)! What eventually worked was drifting out the rubber, cutting the metal sleeve and then drifting that out.
M
Nefarious said:
camel_landy said:
I tried a combination of heat/burning & drifting
Watch out for the fuel lines! I decided they were just too close to safely use oxy. Fortunately, it came out a lot easier than the suspension ones, but I guess I was just lucky.I wouldn't do it with a body on, if nothing else, it generates loads of soot.
M
ukkid35 said:
Thank you very much!
The RG/CT pricing structure has always been somewhat confusing. When I bought the front discs they were put through the CT invoicing system which represented about a 15% discount on the RG listed price.
No problem.The RG/CT pricing structure has always been somewhat confusing. When I bought the front discs they were put through the CT invoicing system which represented about a 15% discount on the RG listed price.
Just ordered a set myself along with new front lens seals as I`m replacing the reflectors.
Came across the kit by chance as I was browsing the parts.
Had to do a "double take" as I thought it couldn`t be right based on single bush pricing.
Simon
Edited by TVdinneR on Tuesday 16th October 21:50
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