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ukkid35
Original Poster
1,651 posts
43 months
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as Jimmy Saville wouldn't have said.
I've had enough of the almost non-existent diff bush, and I've not found the forum post explaining what to do. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
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scotty_d
5,653 posts
64 months
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Had a quick search as well but no joy.
I did mine last winter with the diff out, So unsure if you can do it with the diff in situ.
I used a reciprocating air saw to cut the center out, carefully cut through the metal part and knock it out with a drift
The front 2 mounts are easy as you can work at them on the bench.
I believe some people used a puller type tool but the above worked well for me.
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djstevec
2,113 posts
44 months
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Tanguero
3,368 posts
71 months
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The first time I did mine (body on) I had to chisel the bush out. Rather than burning the rubber out so close to the bodywork I heated up an old screwdriver to red hot with a blowtorch and used that to burn out the central tube. Once that is out you can get most of the rubber out by the same method. I then ground a triangular point on a long bit of rebar and fed it in through the wheelarch so the point was between the chassis tube and the metal outer sleve of the rubberless bush. Smacking the end of the rebar with a sledge hammer eventualy folded the bush sleve (hence the triangular point). Make sure your bar is long enough that you won't hit the wing if you miss the bar!!!
If I'd had access to one I reckon an air chisel would have been a lot easier.
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greenracing
89 posts
41 months
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It is a straight forward job, but however prepared you are, you will end up using swearing, very loudly at various points in the removal process!
There are various methods and tools available, but I found using a socket on one side of the bush and a nut and bolt passed through the lot and tightened up the best way to pull out the inner bush tube. This also means you do not have to use a flame. I then cut 2 slots through the remaining rubber using a hack saw with the 2nd cut going through the rubber and metal bush casing. Once you have cut through the metal case of the bush, you should only need to tap it and it will fall out.
You can then use the boly and socket arrangement to pull the new (probably poly) bush into place.
Hope the above makes sense and helps!
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camel_landy
1,549 posts
53 months
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Even with the body off, it's the b  h arse job from hell!!! I ended up using a combination of foul language, long drift, more foul language, big hammer, brute force, saw, blow torch, ice pack, even more foul language... You get the picture! I tried a combination of heat/burning & drifting but it was quite literally going nowhere (the hammer/hand/chassis interface didn't help either)! What eventually worked was drifting out the rubber, cutting the metal sleeve and then drifting that out. M
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pmessling
1,141 posts
73 months
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I'm must be the only person who found it easy. Took about 5minutes getting mine out. Using the drift I made. An axle stand to support the iron bar and a big hammer to knock it out. Easy.
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camel_landy
1,549 posts
53 months
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pmessling said: I'm must be the only person who found it easy. Took about 5minutes getting mine out. Using the drift I made. An axle stand to support the iron bar and a big hammer to knock it out. Easy. You can go off some people...
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Nefarious
980 posts
135 months
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camel_landy said: I tried a combination of heat/burning & drifting Watch out for the fuel lines! I decided they were just too close to safely use oxy. Fortunately, it came out a lot easier than the suspension ones, but I guess I was just lucky.
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camel_landy
1,549 posts
53 months
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Nefarious said: camel_landy said: I tried a combination of heat/burning & drifting Watch out for the fuel lines! I decided they were just too close to safely use oxy. Fortunately, it came out a lot easier than the suspension ones, but I guess I was just lucky. Indeed... Mine was with the body off. I wouldn't do it with a body on, if nothing else, it generates loads of soot. M
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ukkid35
Original Poster
1,651 posts
43 months
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Many thanks to everyone for their input, not least pmessling, as I will be attempting this job with the purpose made tool of his devising.
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pmessling
1,141 posts
73 months
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What bushes you replacing them with Paul, OEM type or poly, if poly, find the split type easier to install. especially in the tight space.
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ukkid35
Original Poster
1,651 posts
43 months
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pmessling said: What bushes you replacing them with Paul, OEM type or poly, if poly, find the split type easier to install. especially in the tight space. RG PolyA bit disappointed that it's going to cost £70 for a set.
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pmessling
1,141 posts
73 months
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They are the ones I fitted. Made life very easy
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TVdinneR
232 posts
20 months
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ukkid35 said: RG PolyA bit disappointed that it's going to cost £70 for a set. Hi, Unless I`m missing something - RG Kit
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ukkid35
Original Poster
1,651 posts
43 months
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TVdinneR said: Hi, Unless I`m missing something - RG KitThank you very much! The RG/CT pricing structure has always been somewhat confusing. When I bought the front discs they were put through the CT invoicing system which represented about a 15% discount on the RG listed price.
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TVdinneR
232 posts
20 months
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ukkid35 said: Thank you very much!
The RG/CT pricing structure has always been somewhat confusing. When I bought the front discs they were put through the CT invoicing system which represented about a 15% discount on the RG listed price. No problem. Just ordered a set myself along with new front lens seals as I`m replacing the reflectors. Came across the kit by chance as I was browsing the parts. Had to do a "double take" as I thought it couldn`t be right based on single bush pricing. Simon
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