Starter button / fuel pump doesn't kick in advice?

[Juddder]

sonnylad said:

Sounds more like silver key to me.

Well I took apart the Silver Key this afternoon by removing the ash tray, and carefully unbolting it from the back using fingers (zzzz...) and lo and behold one of the terminals has fallen off!



So I guess the good news about this is that it's nothing drastic (*phew) but the challenge from here is that those wires look like they were soldered onto the back of the lock, and trying to get at it to resolder it without pulling apart the dash board is going to be a real pain in the .. neck

One of the suggestions was to remove the dash pod, but that sounds like a really complex process?

One other thought I have is that my Cerbera has a "special" modification from a previous owner where they've added a secret kill switch and located it in the ash tray [as per shots below]

One thought is that because they've used a dual thrown switch, is to disconnect both wires from the silver lock, add small blade connectors and clip them on to the second pair of switch terminals on that switch instead.

That way I can just put back the silver lock for aesthetics, and the real job of keeping the car safe is by the secret switch (which nobody knows about of course )

Any errors in my madness?! Many thanks!

[dempsey]

Juddder said:

jackwibble said:

I think he means the starter black button on the steering wheel?

Ah.. Yes that would make sense

Forgot about THAT really important one

Yes - that's the one. Half an hour's work and a relatively cheap part.

Glad you traced the problem. The moral being as already pointed out - 'Never touch the silver key' !

[dempsey]

Jhonno said:

I thought it was the starter circuit that was the one that seems to suffer from it..

Also the temp fix doesn't bypass your immobiliser.. So insurance is fine.

Hmm, I don't believe so. By definition the temp fix is to completely re-route the starter
circuit around the immobiliser. Carl Baker always advised this would invalidate insurance.

[dempsey]

Jhonno said:

I thought it was the starter circuit that was the one that seems to suffer from it..

Also the temp fix doesn't bypass your immobiliser.. So insurance is fine.

Hmm, I don't believe so. By definition the temp fix is to completely re-route the starter
circuit around the immobiliser. Carl Baker always advised this would invalidate insurance.

[Juddder]

dempsey said:

Glad you traced the problem. The moral being as already pointed out - 'Never touch the silver key' !

Forgot to say a BIG THANK YOU to everyone for their advice - made me much calmer when it was sat there doing nothing

Will update how I go but thinking that if I can wire up one of these - if it fits - I can connect the LED to the power on the Fan lights and have a nice 'blue Tron' effect when the lights are on



It's a latching switch, so should do the push to on, push to off it needs, and is 16mm drill hole size which _looks_ like it will fit (will go and measure tomorrow)

Thanks again!

Juddder

[dean_ratpac]

this happened no end to be - turned out its the alarm relays - i used to thump the main unit until they "unstuck"

Carl replaced the alarm with a new digital meta.

works a treat.

[greenracing]

Ha, silver key switch strikes again! Mine broke in my work carpark afer I accidently nudged it. I ended up just pulling the wires a little until the back of the switch actually came off then just bridged the connections using a piece of wire from the inside of my sandwich bag tie! Still like it now as I begrudge paying out nearly £20 for a crappy switch.

[Juddder]

greenracing said:

Ha, silver key switch strikes again! Mine broke in my work carpark afer I accidently nudged it. I ended up just pulling the wires a little until the back of the switch actually came off then just bridged the connections using a piece of wire from the inside of my sandwich bag tie! Still like it now as I begrudge paying out nearly £20 for a crappy switch.

Yes - obviously not built to last (*sound familiar here anyone? )

So to update, with a torch, sharp knife, crimp set and other bits of tools I went off to the Cerb's underground lair on Saturday and re-wired both leads with crimp plugs, tested the connectivity of the 'hidden' switch and reconnected the wire pair to the spare pair on the dual throw switch.

Battery reconnected, checked and replaced and life!

A quick spin in the rain but all working great again and have ordered one of the above push to latch switches as the dimensions are 16mm (same as the hole for the silver key) and the front is 18mm so will replace perfectly.

I'll send some pictures when in situ and all lit up but thanks again everyone - pre-flight check and take off all working perfectly again

Judder

[c6erb]

Sorry to bump this thread but this sounds like the trouble I am currently experiencing. My car is on trickle charge and I have even topped up the fuel. In two minds how to progress.

[Juddder]

c6erb said:

Sorry to bump this thread but this sounds like the trouble I am currently experiencing. My car is on trickle charge and I have even topped up the fuel. In two minds how to progress.

Can you give a bit more information?

If the alarm is disabled correctly, and the 'silver key' turned to on then you should be able to hear the fuel pumps start up (whirring noise behind your left)

If there's no fuel pump noise, it could be either the alarm, the silver key broken / not connected correctly or, I guess, a dead fuel pump?

[c6erb]

well car is now in Kent currently due to undergo further investigation(s). Managed to drive it there c/o the AA.

[Incognegro]

Juddder said:

Forgot to say a BIG THANK YOU to everyone for their advice - made me much calmer when it was sat there doing nothing

Will update how I go but thinking that if I can wire up one of these - if it fits - I can connect the LED to the power on the Fan lights and have a nice 'blue Tron' effect when the lights are on



It's a latching switch, so should do the push to on, push to off it needs, and is 16mm drill hole size which _looks_ like it will fit (will go and measure tomorrow)

Thanks again!

Juddder

Another RESURECTION from me. How did the fitting of this go?

I'll be doing something similar (stainless steel version) with blue ring. Just hope. Can wire so light doesn't alway be on and drain battery.

[Juddder]

Incognegro said:

Another RESURECTION from me. How did the fitting of this go?

I'll be doing something similar (stainless steel version) with blue ring. Just hope. Can wire so light doesn't alway be on and drain battery.

It went well - still all working fine - and I think it is a 19mm latching switch that you need if I remember correctly. Something like this

I never actually got around to wiring in the light part, but my strategy was to connect it to the lights circuit, so would only light up when the lights were on rather than draining power etc.

Might actually get around to doing that now!

[ukkid35]

I use mine for controlling power to a USB power supply for my Garmin.

[Incognegro]

Thats neat, I have a flip screen nav/ipod/cd system. I was thinking of changing lighter to usb but on reflection you never know when some tyre weld and a compressor might be needed. I would however love to swap the actual lighter for a "12v Power" plug cover.