Any cerbera window experts about?

[jamesc_1729]

Hi - with regard to door switch type :

http://www.cerbera.co.uk/cerbera/production.htm

This website describes a changeover at some point. So early 96/97 cars had a mechanical switch from vw, then subsequent cars had the magnetic sensors.

I have found a website which sells the magnets so I am going to buy magnets and reed switches and swap the lot until it starts working again!

[TimJM]

jamesc_1729 said:

I have found a website which sells the magnets so I am going to buy magnets and reed switches and swap the lot until it starts working again!

The easiest way is to just buy a multi-meter if you haven't already got one (Maplins sell them for £9 - or if you are lucky they often have them on offer 2 for £10) and then pinpoint exactly what (if anything) is faulty in relation to the door/windows control functions. It will be much quicker than replacing reed switches and pulling door cards off.

Here are my notes from many years ago to tell you what the car should be doing. Start off by unplugging the connectors from the door/window control box - REMEMBER WHICH ONE GOES WHERE. In fact mark them with coloured markers/letters anything so you can easily remember which ones goes where. If you don't do this the two switch function and driver connectors will happily go in either connection and blow the st out of the unit.

If you push the multi-meter positive probe into the power to the door/window control unit (the red wire of the connector with just red/black) you can then use the negative probe to take readings from the other incoming connector blocks. If you don't get a reading swap the power and pick up the negative and use the positive to take readings but I think the switches are wired to negatives...I suppose I could check the wiring diagram.

Below are the readings I took from my car. So as an example if you think the door reed switch is faulty on the drivers side open the drivers door, then with the positive probe of your multi meter connected to the power connector red wire push the negative probe into the white and purple connector (A1 - I think this was top left...it will be in a corner of the connector anyway) and you should have a reading of 12 volts. Shut the door and the reading should drop to 0 volts. If it says at 12 volts then the read switch is faulty. Mine had a problem where the drivers side only dropped to 10.2 volts but the small drop in voltage seemed to be enough to still work.

Oh and I take no responsibility for anyone connecting the door/window controller back up incorrectly and killing the box - as I said. Mark the connectors before you take them off.

[jamesc_1729]

Thanks everyone and tim - I had bookmarked a similar post of yours for reference.

Today I brought home 2 things from work - a horseshoe magnet and a dvm.

Tried the magnet on both reed switches and no change to window or interior light behaviour.

Tested the voltage levels from a1 and b1 below and they both say 12v with the door open or closed.

Guessing both reed switches are broken then?

Oh a slight complication was that I closed the boot without connecting the ecu back up, not realising the boot is controlled by the same box.

Could someone please pm me some advice? I can email a pic of me and the car but not the v5 as still awaiting it from dvla.

Edited by jamesc_1729 on Wednesday 5th June 18:39

[Boosted Cerb]

Sounds like you're making progress.

Like I said earlier, as secondary check, worth taking the door card off and shorting out the plug that goes to the reed switch, simulating a working reed switch. Then see if the window goes up.

You wouldn't want to buy new reed switches only to find it was only the plug all corroded would you???

Rich.

[sonnylad]

Far easier just to undo and remove the metal plate the reed switch goes thru as there is normally more than enought slack in the wire to test.

[jamesc_1729]

Will try shorting the connector tomorrow.

I am still locked out of the boot though... :-(

[TimJM]

jamesc_1729 said:

Tested the voltage levels from a1 and b1 below and they both say 12v with the door open or closed.

Guessing both reed switches are broken then?

Oh a slight complication was that I closed the boot without connecting the ecu back up, not realising the boot is controlled by the same box.

Could someone please pm me some advice? I can email a pic of me and the car but not the v5 as still awaiting it from dvla.

Yes, I would say that either the reed switches are broken a connector on route. It is strange that they have both packed up though. I would suggest taking a few other readings from other known working switches just to verify that the readings are being taken correctly a d the DVM is working as expected.

Did you manage to get back into the car OK?

[jamesc_1729]

Hi no I am still seeking advice as to how to get into the boot with the ecu disconnected.

[Tanguero]

You have mail.

[jamesc_1729]

Time for my daily update -

Today I got back into the boot after receiving some advice via email. Then I took the door card off and disconnected the reed switch connector. Since they are NC this has the effect of simulating the door closing.

The window then went straight up..

Two reed switches on order from RS components. Should be here Saturday.

Thanks for the advice it is useful to explain things as this crystallises your own understanding and thoughts.

[Boosted Cerb]

Nice one

See, your baptism into Cerbie maintenance wasn't too bad........eventually you'll become so insane you'll start to find it fun

Rich

[jamesc_1729]

Reed switches arrived today. Changed the drivers side and works beautifully now.

Came to do the passengers side and noticed that the magnet had disapeared! Replaced that as I had bought a pair and still didn't work so replaced the red switch and not really happy still. Tried to remove door card but one of the Allen bolts is rusted and rounded so need to drill it out. Fun and games eh?

Had four new tyres (T1-Rs) fitted today as the car came with 16 year old bridgestone s02s!

Next on list is new exhaust, then 12k mile service at str8six.

[N1CERB]

Blowing the dust off an oldie but goldie...

If my passenger door reed switch is broken, would connecting the wires at the ECU plug still make the window drop?

I have tried all kinds of options using both power at the red and black connector and then also using a jump start power supply, but the window would not drop? Is there a certain procedure for doing this, as when I tried the drivers door it also did not move yet that one works just fine with the buttons?

My passenger door wont open with any button either, and the window wont drop with door button or radio buttons?

I now have removed the door card and putting power direct to the window motor it goes up and down just fine. The reed sensor wires all look good, but not tested? Wires all seem ok and all connectors have a kind of old grease on them.

I also tried the old magnet on the sensor and the interior light does not flicker or alter. Only thing I have not done is removed the reed wires and shorted them across, but was unsure of correct procedure with this.

Is there a way to test my reed sensor without removing the drivers side and swapping them over?

All pointers much appreciated!

It being night down here I have packed up until tomorrow.

Cheers
Dave

[Tanguero]

N1CERB said:

Is there a way to test my reed sensor without removing the drivers side and swapping them over?

Just put a resistance meter across it. That will show when the reed switch is open and closed.

[N1CERB]

Being no expert with a meter I better read the instruction book thats with it. Cheers for that, will try tonight.