Any cerbera window experts about?

[jamesc_1729]

My new cerb has the not entirely unexpected window issues. Wondered if anyone could help?

Neither window will go up all the way, both windows stop 1-2" below the fully closed position. (Eta, with me using the switch to raise it...) This is slightly puzzling as most faults I have read about would usually affect one at a time (just by randomly affecting one at a time rather than both (wiring /connector/microswitch/solenoid failure)

I have done the following;

Unplugged all connectors from window ecu in boot then reconnected.
Removed drivers door card then unplugged the three connectors and cleaned/reconnected them.

I noticed that the microswitch in the door with the window holding it shut in the down position opens when the window is within 1-2" of fully closed, which stops the window from rising further - is this correct?

Thanks for any help.

Edited by jamesc_1729 on Monday 3rd June 21:50

[Boosted Cerb]

Sounds like the control box doesn't think the doors are shut which is why it won't let you raise the window fully.

If you set the alarm, I think the windows should go all the way up???

Then see if the window drops before the door opens.

Strange it's happened to both though, I'll give it a bit more thought.

Rich.

[Tanguero]

If the controller didn't think the doors were closed then it wouldn't try to raise the windows at all. The simple check to be sure is that the interior lights will only switch off if the controller thinks the doors are closed.

The microswitch acts as a limit switch to signal the controller to stop opening the window when the door button is pressed and the window drops. There isn't a sensor for the fully closed position of the window, the control box just gives a timed signal to the motors. If the window isn't fully closing in that time, then try replacing the fur lined rubber channel that the window slides in as it is probably dragging the windows and stopping them from fully closing before the signal from the controler ends.

[jamesc_1729]

Thanks for both replies.


Tanguero - I don't follow what you are saying as I am trying to close either window using the switches adjacent to the radio. Therefore how can the closing action of the window be controlled by a timed event.

I tried holding the microswitch down once the window had risen past it ( and therefore opened it) and the window goes all the way to the top.

I am confused..

[Boosted Cerb]

jamesc_1729 said:

Thanks for both replies.


Tanguero - I don't follow what you are saying as I am trying to close either window using the switches adjacent to the radio. Therefore how can the closing action of the window be controlled by a timed event.

I tried holding the microswitch down once the window had risen past it ( and therefore opened it) and the window goes all the way to the top.

I am confused..

I'm pretty sure the control box doesn't think the doors are shut then,

As the micro switch is also used when you are raising the windows on the switches. If it thinks the door is open and you're pressing the up button it will stop when it gets up to the micro switch as it knows if it goes all the way up the door won't close properly ( it'll hit the carbon trim)

With the door card off youll probably hear the microswitch click and the window will stop going up in the same position ech time.

Witt the door card off you can short out the reed switch for the door shut signal and I bet the window will then raise past the micro switch position.

Funny why both have failed though? We're they both working at some point in you ownership?

Rich

[jamesc_1729]

Hi rich yes agreed it does seem logically that the ecu thinks both doors are open all of the time. I have had one door working, then both, and now neither, in the two weeks I have owned it! The passenger window originally was playing up but then the seller mentioned swapping a relay and the fault moved to the drivers side. (Dont understand which relay he meant)

Back to symptoms - As I raise the drivers window from fully down the window rises until it opens the microswitch and then stops immediately.

How do I short the reed switch to confirm? I can see there is a nut/bolt in the door with a corresponding bit of metal in the body door frame - is this the door close sensor ?

[Boosted Cerb]

Yep that's right, that nut bolt thing is the reed switch, if you've got the door card back on easiest way is to place a magnet over the switch and if working correctly.....the window will raise the last inch. If so.......

It could be both the reed switches just need adjusting closer to the magnets which are the metal things in the door sills. There a nut either side of the door holding the reed switch in place. You can adjust it along its threaded length.

If the window doesn't go up when you place the magnet over the switch, you can disconnect the reed switch inside the door and use a small bit of wire to short the connector out, which will simulate a working reed switch.

Rich.

[Tanguero]

jamesc_1729 said:

Thanks for both replies.


Tanguero - I don't follow what you are saying as I am trying to close either window using the switches adjacent to the radio. Therefore how can the closing action of the window be controlled by a timed event.

Sorry - I thought you meant that the windows were not automatically closing completely.

As above if you are closing the windows manually, the microswitch limits the upward travel, but usually only if the controller thinks the door is open.

Are the interior lights switching off when the doors are closed?

Edited by Tanguero on Monday 3rd June 23:02

[ellum]

Hi

had similar issue on my 1997. There's that switch on the bottom of the door (a VW Passat part...) that touches the body and so closes the circuit when door is closed. Basically it tells if door is closed so window can go full up and not be closed with full up and so hit the rubber.

My switch was actually fine (changed it anyway...) but they're a small rubber an the body that acts as a buffer. that one is around 2mm thick. That one was missing at one of my ends so the switch could close the circuit. I glued that one back on the body and everything went back working!

good luck
ellum

[jamesc_1729]

Thanks for more advice I will try and have a look again after dinner and report back!

I wonder if we are not missing a hint with both doors not working-could just be coincidence I s'pose!

[jamesc_1729]

Hi - I have just been out for a quick look.

The windows do not move when I set the alarm (one window is down fully; the other is 1-2" from the top.)

The interior light has 3 positions, one of these is off permanently and the other two are on permanently regardless of door position.

I haven't tried a magnet on the reed switch as I don't have one (had a quick look in screwfix but they don't sell them)

I guess I should buy two reed switches online tonight and then swap them out huh??

[sonnylad]

Have you checked to see if the magnets are still attached to the sill.

[FarmyardPants]

In that case the control box definitely thinks the door(s) are open. The interior light switch should be in the middle position. As soon as you touch a magnet to the reed switch the window should go up (if it was originally up before the door was 'opened' possibly weeks ago). But if it doesn't you should be able to get the window fully up via interior buttons with magnet applied, otherwise reed switch or its wiring.

[jamesc_1729]

Hi

Good question - in the sill fibreglass is an 15-20mm diameter indent but I don't know if the magnet is present or not.

Should the magnet protrude? There does look like there is a metal disc in the insert but I can't be sure. What should the sill part look like?

I guess both could have fallen out but in all my googling on this subject I have never read of this as a problem.

[sonnylad]

Also worth checking fuses, depending on year of manu fuse number 6 (15a) is Door control unit on my car (96). That is reading from petrol tank side back towards rear lights.

[FarmyardPants]

Tanguero said:

If the controller didn't think the doors were closed then it wouldn't try to raise the windows at all. The simple check to be sure is that the interior lights will only switch off if the controller thinks the doors are closed.

The microswitch acts as a limit switch to signal the controller to stop opening the window when the door button is pressed and the window drops. There isn't a sensor for the fully closed position of the window, the control box just gives a timed signal to the motors. If the window isn't fully closing in that time, then try replacing the fur lined rubber channel that the window slides in as it is probably dragging the windows and stopping them from fully closing before the signal from the controler ends.

The time used is based on the time it took for the window to drop, I have discovered. If your windows go down quite fast but are slow to go up, the chances are they won't go all the way back up when you shut the door.

Top tip: you can fool the system by slowing the progress of the window on the way down Just stick your hand against the window to try to stop it coming down when you press the door mirror button. When you shut the door, the window will go all the way up.

[jamesc_1729]

sonnylad said:

Also worth checking fuses, depending on year of manu fuse number 6 (15a) is Door control unit on my car (96). That is reading from petrol tank side back towards rear lights.

Hi - surely if the door control ecu fuse was gone nothing would work - windows, door solenoids etc.
could you help determining whether the magnets are missing on my car at all?

[sonnylad]

You can check if there's a magnet still attached by placing a piece of metal over the area, even a 2p coin is attracted to a magnet but the only coin that is as far as i know.

[Tanguero]

ellum said:

Hi

had similar issue on my 1997. There's that switch on the bottom of the door (a VW Passat part...) that touches the body and so closes the circuit when door is closed. Basically it tells if door is closed so window can go full up and not be closed with full up and so hit the rubber.

My switch was actually fine (changed it anyway...) but they're a small rubber an the body that acts as a buffer. that one is around 2mm thick. That one was missing at one of my ends so the switch could close the circuit. I glued that one back on the body and everything went back working!

good luck
ellum

Not unless it has been replaced. The original fitting is a non-contact reed switch in the door with a magnet to actuate it in the sill.

[HarryW]

Tanguero said:

ellum said:

Hi

had similar issue on my 1997. There's that switch on the bottom of the door (a VW Passat part...) that touches the body and so closes the circuit when door is closed. Basically it tells if door is closed so window can go full up and not be closed with full up and so hit the rubber.

My switch was actually fine (changed it anyway...) but they're a small rubber an the body that acts as a buffer. that one is around 2mm thick. That one was missing at one of my ends so the switch could close the circuit. I glued that one back on the body and everything went back working!

good luck
ellum

Not unless it has been replaced. The original fitting is a non-contact reed switch in the door with a magnet to actuate it in the sill.

Don't know if it's standard but my 96 is a contact type plunger too?