Cerbera - most common problems...
Discussion
I just thought this would be a great topic for newbies and those looking for fixes on common known problems.
My experience:
Starter Motor:
- Problems:
* Solenoid rubber cover coming loose and wires touching metal - leading to fuse blowouts.
* Motor bolt coming loose, slow, but eventual failure, motor case rips out and drive comes out.
- Fix:
* Check the starter motor once every 1000 miles, easy to get to, check the rubber surround on the solenoid, and feel round the back of motor case to make sure bolt is tightly in place and not starting to unwind.
Wiper parking switch:
- Problems:
* Goes on the blink - especially when water gets in and fries the bugger.
* If you put the car on some chargers, you get the failure too.
-Fix:
* Not much really, will be covered under warranty.
* Dont use high ampage chargers while battery is connected to car.
Inner ring of tyres:
- Problems:
* Heavy wear of inner ring of tyres.
- Fix:
* Correction of camber, toe etc.
* Go on a diet (HEAVY driver)
Shocks:
- Problem:
* Standard factory shocks start leaking, poor seals.
- Fix:
* Install Nitrons/Avo's when existing shocks go.
PAS (power assisted steering)
* Any signs of redish fluid under the car..
* Hose splits, or comes loose.
* Pump seals go - standard seals not up to the job.
Battery:
- Problems:
* Leave her parked a little longer than a few days, and the battery for some reason goes flat.
- Fix:
* Use Optimate trickle charger or solar charger.
* Install an Optima Yellow Top Battery. (Gel based dual service starter & deep-cycle battery)
Theres many more, come on chaps, lets get this list fully populated... a problem and your recommended fix.
>>> Edited by SXS on Thursday 18th November 09:33
My experience:
Starter Motor:
- Problems:
* Solenoid rubber cover coming loose and wires touching metal - leading to fuse blowouts.
* Motor bolt coming loose, slow, but eventual failure, motor case rips out and drive comes out.
- Fix:
* Check the starter motor once every 1000 miles, easy to get to, check the rubber surround on the solenoid, and feel round the back of motor case to make sure bolt is tightly in place and not starting to unwind.
Wiper parking switch:
- Problems:
* Goes on the blink - especially when water gets in and fries the bugger.
* If you put the car on some chargers, you get the failure too.
-Fix:
* Not much really, will be covered under warranty.
* Dont use high ampage chargers while battery is connected to car.
Inner ring of tyres:
- Problems:
* Heavy wear of inner ring of tyres.
- Fix:
* Correction of camber, toe etc.
* Go on a diet (HEAVY driver)
Shocks:
- Problem:
* Standard factory shocks start leaking, poor seals.
- Fix:
* Install Nitrons/Avo's when existing shocks go.
PAS (power assisted steering)
* Any signs of redish fluid under the car..
* Hose splits, or comes loose.
* Pump seals go - standard seals not up to the job.
Battery:
- Problems:
* Leave her parked a little longer than a few days, and the battery for some reason goes flat.
- Fix:
* Use Optimate trickle charger or solar charger.
* Install an Optima Yellow Top Battery. (Gel based dual service starter & deep-cycle battery)
Theres many more, come on chaps, lets get this list fully populated... a problem and your recommended fix.
>>> Edited by SXS on Thursday 18th November 09:33
[quote=SXS ]
Wiper parking switch:
- Problems:
* Goes on the blink - especially when water gets in and fries the bugger.
* If you put the car on some chargers, you get the failure too.
-Fix:
* Not much really, will be covered under warranty.
* Dont use high ampage chargers while battery is connected to car.
[/quote]
Thats a thought, my see if mines covered under warranty.
Wiper parking switch:
- Problems:
* Goes on the blink - especially when water gets in and fries the bugger.
* If you put the car on some chargers, you get the failure too.
-Fix:
* Not much really, will be covered under warranty.
* Dont use high ampage chargers while battery is connected to car.
[/quote]
Thats a thought, my see if mines covered under warranty.
Heres a few based on my one year of ownership - sorry i cannot be a bit more helpful with the solutions.
Starter motor knackered
Solution - get a new one
Clutch or some part of it goes
Solution - get a new one
Shocks Go
Solution - see SXS post
Wipers have a mind of their own
Solution - don't go out in the rain
Tyres go flat
Solution - pump them up every time
Boot mysteriously opens at high speed
Solution - get the latch mechanism checked out
Speedo stops working
Solution - drive for 50 or so miles and it may start again, or new module
Screw on top of drivers seat constantly comes loose
Solution - tighten regularly
Loosing Coolant
Solution - get a new radiator, or top up very very regularly
Starter motor knackered
Solution - get a new one
Clutch or some part of it goes
Solution - get a new one
Shocks Go
Solution - see SXS post
Wipers have a mind of their own
Solution - don't go out in the rain
Tyres go flat
Solution - pump them up every time
Boot mysteriously opens at high speed
Solution - get the latch mechanism checked out
Speedo stops working
Solution - drive for 50 or so miles and it may start again, or new module
Screw on top of drivers seat constantly comes loose
Solution - tighten regularly
Loosing Coolant
Solution - get a new radiator, or top up very very regularly
[quote=SXS ]I just thought this would be a great topic for newbies and those looking for fixes on common known problems.
My experience:
Starter Motor:
- Problems:
* Solenoid rubber cover coming loose and wires touching metal - leading to fuse blowouts.
* Motor bolt coming loose, slow, but eventual failure, motor case rips out and drive comes out.
- Fix:
* Check the starter motor once every 1000 miles, easy to get to, check the rubber surround on the solenoid, and feel round the back of motor case to make sure bolt is tightly in place and not starting to unwind.
Wiper parking switch:
- Problems:
* Goes on the blink - especially when water gets in and fries the bugger.
* If you put the car on some chargers, you get the failure too.
-Fix:
* Not much really, will be covered under warranty.
* Dont use high ampage chargers while battery is connected to car.
Inner ring of tyres:
- Problems:
* Heavy wear of inner ring of tyres.
- Fix:
* Correction of camber, toe etc.
* Go on a diet (HEAVY driver)
Shocks:
- Problem:
* Standard factory shocks start leaking, poor seals.
- Fix:
* Install Nitrons/Avo's when existing shocks go.
PAS (power assisted steering)
* Any signs of redish fluid under the car..
* Hose splits, or comes loose.
* Pump seals go - standard seals not up to the job.
Battery:
- Problems:
* Leave her parked a little longer than a few days, and the battery for some reason goes flat.
- Fix:
* Use Optimate trickle charger or solar charger.
* Install an Optima Yellow Top Battery. (Gel based dual service starter & deep-cycle battery)
Theres many more, come on chaps, lets get this list fully populated... a problem and your recommended fix.
>>> Edited by SXS on Thursday 18th November 09:33[/quote]
oil pressure sensor leaks
fix: get a new one or just leave the feckin thing because the new ones will break within six months!!
engine mounts will split
fix:replace mounts with new moounts which should last a year or two if your lucky
slave cylinder
fix:replace seal with specially redesigned ones from V8 sports and calssics. Current TVR ones perish cause the material is tom kite! fixed for good! Way hey.
Oh and while they've got the gearboax out check the clutch and master to see what they are looking like. 5 quid for the seal and 500 quid to fit it!
throttle bodies ie rough running. these wear over time until there shagged. Your waisting time getting them constantly adjusted. Get new ones from dreadnought that dont have the issues the current tvr ones have. problem solved forever! :-)
over and out.
My experience:
Starter Motor:
- Problems:
* Solenoid rubber cover coming loose and wires touching metal - leading to fuse blowouts.
* Motor bolt coming loose, slow, but eventual failure, motor case rips out and drive comes out.
- Fix:
* Check the starter motor once every 1000 miles, easy to get to, check the rubber surround on the solenoid, and feel round the back of motor case to make sure bolt is tightly in place and not starting to unwind.
Wiper parking switch:
- Problems:
* Goes on the blink - especially when water gets in and fries the bugger.
* If you put the car on some chargers, you get the failure too.
-Fix:
* Not much really, will be covered under warranty.
* Dont use high ampage chargers while battery is connected to car.
Inner ring of tyres:
- Problems:
* Heavy wear of inner ring of tyres.
- Fix:
* Correction of camber, toe etc.
* Go on a diet (HEAVY driver)
Shocks:
- Problem:
* Standard factory shocks start leaking, poor seals.
- Fix:
* Install Nitrons/Avo's when existing shocks go.
PAS (power assisted steering)
* Any signs of redish fluid under the car..
* Hose splits, or comes loose.
* Pump seals go - standard seals not up to the job.
Battery:
- Problems:
* Leave her parked a little longer than a few days, and the battery for some reason goes flat.
- Fix:
* Use Optimate trickle charger or solar charger.
* Install an Optima Yellow Top Battery. (Gel based dual service starter & deep-cycle battery)
Theres many more, come on chaps, lets get this list fully populated... a problem and your recommended fix.
>>> Edited by SXS on Thursday 18th November 09:33[/quote]
oil pressure sensor leaks
fix: get a new one or just leave the feckin thing because the new ones will break within six months!!
engine mounts will split
fix:replace mounts with new moounts which should last a year or two if your lucky
slave cylinder
fix:replace seal with specially redesigned ones from V8 sports and calssics. Current TVR ones perish cause the material is tom kite! fixed for good! Way hey.
Oh and while they've got the gearboax out check the clutch and master to see what they are looking like. 5 quid for the seal and 500 quid to fit it!
throttle bodies ie rough running. these wear over time until there shagged. Your waisting time getting them constantly adjusted. Get new ones from dreadnought that dont have the issues the current tvr ones have. problem solved forever! :-)
over and out.
Fuse 7
Symptoms - washer motor runs constantly, Hazards stay on, rev counter doesn't work, radio doesn't work, Driver's door & boot latches will not work - various other things either work when they shouldn't or don't work when they should. Check the blade fuses in the right hand side of the boot - No 7 has probably gone - worth carrying some spares.
Good idea for a sticky topic!!!
Simon
Symptoms - washer motor runs constantly, Hazards stay on, rev counter doesn't work, radio doesn't work, Driver's door & boot latches will not work - various other things either work when they shouldn't or don't work when they should. Check the blade fuses in the right hand side of the boot - No 7 has probably gone - worth carrying some spares.
Good idea for a sticky topic!!!
Simon
Symptom:
Rattling sound underneath car...
Fixes:
* Check starter motor heatshield.
* Check exhaust plates.
* Check cats.
Symptom:
Knocking sound at the rear...
Fixes:
* Check exhaust at back, standard back box is bolted through, check if bolt is loose.
Symptom:
Doors are sagging...
Fixes:
* Speak to Joolz!
Rattling sound underneath car...
Fixes:
* Check starter motor heatshield.
* Check exhaust plates.
* Check cats.
Symptom:
Knocking sound at the rear...
Fixes:
* Check exhaust at back, standard back box is bolted through, check if bolt is loose.
Symptom:
Doors are sagging...
Fixes:
* Speak to Joolz!
Toni.... 
Good idea this .
Is it worth putting how much it cost to resolve? Might help peopel wanting to know the running costs before jumping in.
So far:
Clutch Failure (Clutch pedal straight to floor).
Fix: Replaced master cylinder (in footwell)
Cost: £160
Crazy lights, washers hazards etc!
Fix: Fuse number 7.
God awful wet weather handling.
Fix: Don't put S03's on your car.
nb: This is a personal opinion and may not be the case for others!
Siren going of when de-activating the alarm (opening car).
Fix: Ask someone who knows how to disconnect the Siren (thanks Jools).
That's it so far albeit only 7months.
Duncan
. Is it worth putting how much it cost to resolve? Might help peopel wanting to know the running costs before jumping in
. So far:
Clutch Failure (Clutch pedal straight to floor).
Fix: Replaced master cylinder (in footwell)
Cost: £160
Crazy lights, washers hazards etc!
Fix: Fuse number 7
. God awful wet weather handling.
Fix: Don't put S03's on your car
. nb: This is a personal opinion and may not be the case for others!
Siren going of when de-activating the alarm (opening car).
Fix: Ask someone who knows how to disconnect the Siren (thanks Jools
). That's it so far albeit only 7months
. Duncan
funny - I have SO3s and find wet weather handling to be good (normal rules apply for being careful etc)
Wiper motor went
solution - get a new one
Clutch cylinder seals went
solution - new seals from Topcats racing
Gearbox went
solution - new gear box
rattling underneath car
solution - check heat shield above cat.
car feels like it is hesitating
solution - get valves checked, tappets done, HT leads changed, all perfect !
fuse that controls brake light and indicators keeps blowing
solution - loose connection that shorts when car moves, have it checked and replaced.
that's it for now .....
Wiper motor went
solution - get a new one
Clutch cylinder seals went
solution - new seals from Topcats racing
Gearbox went
solution - new gear box
rattling underneath car
solution - check heat shield above cat.
car feels like it is hesitating
solution - get valves checked, tappets done, HT leads changed, all perfect !
fuse that controls brake light and indicators keeps blowing
solution - loose connection that shorts when car moves, have it checked and replaced.
that's it for now .....
Thought this tip might be of use to some of you.
My heated rear window worked intermittently and then stopped all together, the red LED would not come on when the button was pressed. The heated mirrors still worked fine though, along with all the other heating/cooling controls.
Anyway, I eventually decided to take a look at the black box that controls all this (located in passenger footwell). On dismantling it, I could see that there are 2 circuit boards stacked one above another, with nice ribbon cables connecting the two to allow for movement. Except (in true British engineering style...) 2 resistors that connected the 2 boards, being soldered straight between them. One of the resistors had stress fractured as the 2 boards moved slightly in relation to one another…….
So, one 7p 1000ohm resistor, and a bit of soldering later and all was well. I also used some extra long bolts and spacers to keep the 2 boards a fixed distance apart.
My heated rear window worked intermittently and then stopped all together, the red LED would not come on when the button was pressed. The heated mirrors still worked fine though, along with all the other heating/cooling controls.
Anyway, I eventually decided to take a look at the black box that controls all this (located in passenger footwell). On dismantling it, I could see that there are 2 circuit boards stacked one above another, with nice ribbon cables connecting the two to allow for movement. Except (in true British engineering style...) 2 resistors that connected the 2 boards, being soldered straight between them. One of the resistors had stress fractured as the 2 boards moved slightly in relation to one another…….
So, one 7p 1000ohm resistor, and a bit of soldering later and all was well. I also used some extra long bolts and spacers to keep the 2 boards a fixed distance apart.
Good work so far, here are a few more I've been working on the last year or so...
Wet carpets:
Check all the seals in the engine bay under the removable cover in front of windscreen. Mainly the seal round the back lump (clutch fluid inspection cover) on the drivers side this can look ok but I found a main dealer hadn’t re-sealed it & it was letting in loads of water, it only needs silicone bath sealer. If not check the door seals I found the second (98- only) seal on the door was channelling water over the inner body seal & into the car. This is easy to see if it’s raining as the top of the inner seal will be wet. If it’s still getting in check the inner door seals them selves, I found that as they run flat & upside down against the inner door panel where all the rain drains, the water tends to get inside the fitting “U” (in cross section) channel of the seal, then as the seal goes down the front of the door shut the & curves round to run along the bottom the right (?) way up, the water keeps on going down. Tricky explanation –easy fix: Pull the inner door seal off the body were it joins together at the bottom (just under the door speaker if you have them) all the way forward & up to the windscreen let it dry out, then put a run of silicone sealant inside the “U” (where it pushes back on to the body) of all of the seal you pulled off. Don’t put in too much though or it will all come out on to the carpet when you push it back on. I did all this a year ago & it been fine living on the street since, all you need to then is fit up a new carpet set…
Bonnet moving about on the motorway:
Assuming you’ve checked the catches are holding the top of the bonnet ok, check the hinges. Try to lift the front of the bonnet when it’s shut, I found it moved, if so check each hinge with it open to see which it is. I found the cause (after trying a fix them once) was the inner lip at the front of the bonnet caught the nose of the car as it was opened past half way, which in turn ripped the hinge out of the fibreglass. Moving the adjustable hinges forward & up (by taking the air box & filter out you can get at the nuts at the back of the hinges) will stop it but it can look a bit off with the front of the bonnet sticking out & up in air, so the only option is to take the bonnet off cut out the inner part of the bonnet & re-make it in the right place. Sounds a bit daunting but you can’t see any of your handy work with the bonnet shut & its painted mat black so easy to cover up!
Steering wheel buttons intermittently not working (or at all):
Ribbon (PC like) cable inside wheel boss starting to break up. If you can take a steering wheel off you can fix it. It coiled up like a spring you’d get in a clock or similar, which coils up or not(?) as you turn the wheel. It’s a good idea if it was fitted properly, I found it had been folded back on it’s self at one end, so the fold bent every time the wheel moved causing it to break at that point. The fold was partly to hold it but a bit of epoxy at one end & contact adhesive at the other works great.
Air con/ cold air not very cold, & or, hot air coming out of the vents with the fans off, & or, Heating not very hot:
This only applies to, I think pre 2000 cars, it’s actually a TVR approved fix that you can ask you dealer to do. (I think they got it right on the later cars) Thanks to Andy @ APM for the info!
The ambient air intake for hot air is the space in wing above N/S front wheel. This is fed from the different holes in the front of the car, which means as you go faster the cold air is forced by ram effect through the heater & into the cabin. There is a one way valve but it opens with the air pressure, it's to stop the cold air blowing out of the hot intake. (the same thing happens the otherway round) You can hear it shut when you turn on the cold fan, you can also hear it flapping about at certain speeds as the ram air pressure is just enough to open it. (if you can't hear it it could be stuck) The trouble is the ram pressure at motorway speeds is more than the cold air pressure from the fan & this valve is forced open mixing hot air with your air con chilled air.
The fix is TVR approved & there is a kit you can order from the parts dep. to do it, but I did it my self. Basically you change he heating to a recirculation system. You have to block off the inside of the wing, I used cardboard & expanding foam (but had to shave my arms after as it got stuck in the hair!) it’s tricky as you have to go in through the hole for changing the bulbs – much easer if you still have the old style lights & can take the unit out. Second bit is easier, inside the passenger foot well there is removable panel at the bottom that covers the EUC, take it out & cut a largish hole in the flat bit you can’t see so the hole faces up. Then take the carpet off the inner wing to see what you are doing & cut a hole in the upper forward part of it, that would be covered by the panel, then put it all back (using some spray carpet glue). Now the air for the heater will through from the holes you cut .
Result being the air going into the heater is the already warmish air from inside the car so it can really warm up this time of year, rather than try to warm the sub zero out side air. Also when you turn off the hot fan there is no pressure at any speed so the cold air stays cold in the summer.
(I'm not sure why the same doesn't happen in reverse ie cold air blow out. I'd guess it has to do with the air con matrix, so if you don't have air con I don't know - anyone?)
Phew, there you go, there’s probably more but I’m getting sore fingers…
Wet carpets:
Check all the seals in the engine bay under the removable cover in front of windscreen. Mainly the seal round the back lump (clutch fluid inspection cover) on the drivers side this can look ok but I found a main dealer hadn’t re-sealed it & it was letting in loads of water, it only needs silicone bath sealer. If not check the door seals I found the second (98- only) seal on the door was channelling water over the inner body seal & into the car. This is easy to see if it’s raining as the top of the inner seal will be wet. If it’s still getting in check the inner door seals them selves, I found that as they run flat & upside down against the inner door panel where all the rain drains, the water tends to get inside the fitting “U” (in cross section) channel of the seal, then as the seal goes down the front of the door shut the & curves round to run along the bottom the right (?) way up, the water keeps on going down. Tricky explanation –easy fix: Pull the inner door seal off the body were it joins together at the bottom (just under the door speaker if you have them) all the way forward & up to the windscreen let it dry out, then put a run of silicone sealant inside the “U” (where it pushes back on to the body) of all of the seal you pulled off. Don’t put in too much though or it will all come out on to the carpet when you push it back on. I did all this a year ago & it been fine living on the street since, all you need to then is fit up a new carpet set…
Bonnet moving about on the motorway:
Assuming you’ve checked the catches are holding the top of the bonnet ok, check the hinges. Try to lift the front of the bonnet when it’s shut, I found it moved, if so check each hinge with it open to see which it is. I found the cause (after trying a fix them once) was the inner lip at the front of the bonnet caught the nose of the car as it was opened past half way, which in turn ripped the hinge out of the fibreglass. Moving the adjustable hinges forward & up (by taking the air box & filter out you can get at the nuts at the back of the hinges) will stop it but it can look a bit off with the front of the bonnet sticking out & up in air, so the only option is to take the bonnet off cut out the inner part of the bonnet & re-make it in the right place. Sounds a bit daunting but you can’t see any of your handy work with the bonnet shut & its painted mat black so easy to cover up!
Steering wheel buttons intermittently not working (or at all):
Ribbon (PC like) cable inside wheel boss starting to break up. If you can take a steering wheel off you can fix it. It coiled up like a spring you’d get in a clock or similar, which coils up or not(?) as you turn the wheel. It’s a good idea if it was fitted properly, I found it had been folded back on it’s self at one end, so the fold bent every time the wheel moved causing it to break at that point. The fold was partly to hold it but a bit of epoxy at one end & contact adhesive at the other works great.
Air con/ cold air not very cold, & or, hot air coming out of the vents with the fans off, & or, Heating not very hot:
This only applies to, I think pre 2000 cars, it’s actually a TVR approved fix that you can ask you dealer to do. (I think they got it right on the later cars) Thanks to Andy @ APM for the info!
The ambient air intake for hot air is the space in wing above N/S front wheel. This is fed from the different holes in the front of the car, which means as you go faster the cold air is forced by ram effect through the heater & into the cabin. There is a one way valve but it opens with the air pressure, it's to stop the cold air blowing out of the hot intake. (the same thing happens the otherway round) You can hear it shut when you turn on the cold fan, you can also hear it flapping about at certain speeds as the ram air pressure is just enough to open it. (if you can't hear it it could be stuck) The trouble is the ram pressure at motorway speeds is more than the cold air pressure from the fan & this valve is forced open mixing hot air with your air con chilled air.
The fix is TVR approved & there is a kit you can order from the parts dep. to do it, but I did it my self. Basically you change he heating to a recirculation system. You have to block off the inside of the wing, I used cardboard & expanding foam (but had to shave my arms after as it got stuck in the hair!) it’s tricky as you have to go in through the hole for changing the bulbs – much easer if you still have the old style lights & can take the unit out. Second bit is easier, inside the passenger foot well there is removable panel at the bottom that covers the EUC, take it out & cut a largish hole in the flat bit you can’t see so the hole faces up. Then take the carpet off the inner wing to see what you are doing & cut a hole in the upper forward part of it, that would be covered by the panel, then put it all back (using some spray carpet glue). Now the air for the heater will through from the holes you cut .
Result being the air going into the heater is the already warmish air from inside the car so it can really warm up this time of year, rather than try to warm the sub zero out side air. Also when you turn off the hot fan there is no pressure at any speed so the cold air stays cold in the summer.
(I'm not sure why the same doesn't happen in reverse ie cold air blow out. I'd guess it has to do with the air con matrix, so if you don't have air con I don't know - anyone?)
Phew, there you go, there’s probably more but I’m getting sore fingers…
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