Doors and windows just stopped working..
Discussion
gruffalo said:
I am not sure why people have batteries that go flat all the time, I leave mine weeks at a time and she still starts, a month parked on the drive is not uncommon.
All I can think is there is some underlying fault that needs sorting that I am lucky enough for my car not to exibit.
My Cerb is kept garaged and on a trickle charger as well..All I can think is there is some underlying fault that needs sorting that I am lucky enough for my car not to exibit.
gruffalo said:
I am not sure why people have batteries that go flat all the time, I leave mine weeks at a time and she still starts, a month parked on the drive is not uncommon.
All I can think is there is some underlying fault that needs sorting that I am lucky enough for my car not to exibit.
Mine has certainly never gone for weeks and still started, but maybe my Bosch battery was on its way out since I got the car. We'll see how the Optima fairs.All I can think is there is some underlying fault that needs sorting that I am lucky enough for my car not to exibit.
I think all Cerbs are different when it comes to battery drain and there seems to be no reason for the differences.
My first Cerbera was in excellent condition and everything worked spot on...except that 3-4 days max without a run would result in a flat battery, 5 days and the doors wouldn't even open. As I said, the one I am fixing at the moment (same year only made a few months apart - both 4.5's, same spec) and it has lasted over two weeks and still started with a good crank speed.
It's just a TVR thing.
My first Cerbera was in excellent condition and everything worked spot on...except that 3-4 days max without a run would result in a flat battery, 5 days and the doors wouldn't even open. As I said, the one I am fixing at the moment (same year only made a few months apart - both 4.5's, same spec) and it has lasted over two weeks and still started with a good crank speed.
It's just a TVR thing.
After a lay up for a couple of weeks the battery was too low to start. So fitted a CTEK job and while fitting got a spark at the positive terminal. Battery all charged up next day. Started fine and went to the petrol station but could not get out! Pressed the fob button to lock and then unlock and escaped. Could not open the boot so pressed button again to lock and unlock and got in. Got home and windows and doors not working.
Now when I press the fob button the doors unlock (one flash) and the windows drop when opening. Close the doors and the windows go all the way back up. They never did this before, always remaining 2 inches down until the button on the fob was pressed then they would go up as the car was locked. Now press the fob to lock and it flashes 4 times whereas before it flashed just twice.
Crazy car!!!
ETA
Sorry for the edit but this is a public forum, I'm sure many members would not want every body to know such sensitive information.
Now when I press the fob button the doors unlock (one flash) and the windows drop when opening. Close the doors and the windows go all the way back up. They never did this before, always remaining 2 inches down until the button on the fob was pressed then they would go up as the car was locked. Now press the fob to lock and it flashes 4 times whereas before it flashed just twice.
Crazy car!!!
ETA
Sorry for the edit but this is a public forum, I'm sure many members would not want every body to know such sensitive information.
Edited by Big Al. on Wednesday 26th February 20:43
N7GTX said:
After a lay up for a couple of weeks ......some sensitive stuff
Crazy car!!!
It might be a good idea to edit your post slightly. While some of us experienced owners know how to get in to a locked cerb and silence the alarms quickly without the need for keys most owners don't like anything near this information on a public forum. Crazy car!!!
There is an alarm state feed that goes from the alarm to the windows / door ECU, as far as I can tell that is only comms between the alarm & the ECU, so it must be that one that both cuts off the buttons when the alarm is armed & makes the windows go up as you arm it. Once armed as far as I can tell neither the windows nor door buttons will work. So any fault there could give your symptoms.
My immobiliser has given up so I’ve just been going over the whole system with a view to fitting a different alarm / immobiliser set up.
I hope I’m not giving to much away say that? I’d agree N7GTX’s post does go a little too far.
My immobiliser has given up so I’ve just been going over the whole system with a view to fitting a different alarm / immobiliser set up.
I hope I’m not giving to much away say that? I’d agree N7GTX’s post does go a little too far.
Any ideas anyone? Seems the windows are trying to draw current even with everything off..? Not being lazy, just not got time for spending time problem solving atm.. Not going to hand it over to someone either..
Just can't get my head round why everything has died, other than their being something up with the ecu itself.. Will check that reed switches when I get a chance. Alarm is new and works fine.
Just can't get my head round why everything has died, other than their being something up with the ecu itself.. Will check that reed switches when I get a chance. Alarm is new and works fine.
I became a reluctant windows "expert" a number of years back.
The first thing you need to do is find out why that connector is getting so hot - is it hot all the time, even when the window switches aren't being operated?
Then you could wire up your multi-meter and find out two things, one if the switch for the window is working correctly and two if the amps being drawn when operating the window motor are in a reasonable range. Don't worry if your window doesn't work when you press the switch you can just use the 12v feed going into that connector and with some jumpers manually operate the window motor.
That's a good test in itself. If you can't operate the window motor from jumping the connections on that connector you just took off then the connector in the door car is probably corroded or the windows motor itself is at fault.
Take a look at my post in this thread for some help in trouble shooting door/windows problems.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
The first thing you need to do is find out why that connector is getting so hot - is it hot all the time, even when the window switches aren't being operated?
Then you could wire up your multi-meter and find out two things, one if the switch for the window is working correctly and two if the amps being drawn when operating the window motor are in a reasonable range. Don't worry if your window doesn't work when you press the switch you can just use the 12v feed going into that connector and with some jumpers manually operate the window motor.
That's a good test in itself. If you can't operate the window motor from jumping the connections on that connector you just took off then the connector in the door car is probably corroded or the windows motor itself is at fault.
Take a look at my post in this thread for some help in trouble shooting door/windows problems.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Jhonno said:
...Seems the windows are trying to draw current even with everything off..?...
Just had a thought - take off the door cards. We have had a lot of rain recently, I wonder if the motor wiring and connectors are submerged inside the door itself causing this to short. You won't be the first person this has happened to.Cheers Tim..
Will have to get some time to get the door card off.. It has been garaged and not seen water other than being washed.. (Could well be of course).
The connector was hot after it been sat for a few days.. So no use. Does seem like a possible short. Although it went from initimitant to dead in an afternoon.
Will have to get some time to get the door card off.. It has been garaged and not seen water other than being washed.. (Could well be of course).
The connector was hot after it been sat for a few days.. So no use. Does seem like a possible short. Although it went from initimitant to dead in an afternoon.
TimJM said:
N7GTX said:
After a lay up for a couple of weeks ......some sensitive stuff
Crazy car!!!
It might be a good idea to edit your post slightly. While some of us experienced owners know how to get in to a locked cerb and silence the alarms quickly without the need for keys most owners don't like anything near this information on a public forum. Crazy car!!!
So there is nothing in my post that is not readily available elsewhere for free.
Jhonno said:
Just remembered Tim's post in here..
Trying to jump windows off the 12v feed (there is 12v there), getting nothing. Module is unplugged if that changes anything? I don't think it should for just jumping 12v?
If you put 12v on the window motor wires in the boot the window with either go up or down (depending on which way around the 12v is connected). If the window doesn't go up and down with 12v applied to the motor driver then you need to take the door card off and test if you are getting 12v at the motor. If you are then the motor is toast but if not then it will most likely be the door connectors themselves. Then it is a case of keep tracing back until you find the 12v again to see which connection is at fault. I think though that the wire in the boot runs all the way to the door before going through the connectors in the door itself.Trying to jump windows off the 12v feed (there is 12v there), getting nothing. Module is unplugged if that changes anything? I don't think it should for just jumping 12v?
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