What have you done to your car today......
Discussion
firewallguy said:
Thanks. Yes, new from ACT, a bit expensive for what they are, but I wanted wheels I could just bolt on without worrying about offsets and wheel centres and stuff.
I've gone for a set of these http://ultralitewheels.com/atec.htmThere currently at the powder coaters getting a covering of shadow black, I just hope they fit ok
Edited by Gray_101 on Saturday 21st February 09:05
Gray_101 said:
I've gone for a set of these http://ultralitewheels.com/atec.htm
There currently at the powder coaters getting a covering of shadow black, I just hope they fit ok
They do look good, do you know how much they weigh? I measured 17" RL7s at approx 10.8kgThere currently at the powder coaters getting a covering of shadow black, I just hope they fit ok
Good to see you back, hopefully catch you at Burghley House later.
ukkid35 said:
They do look good, do you know how much they weigh? I measured 17" RL7s at approx 10.8kg
Good to see you back, hopefully catch you at Burghley House later.
I've not weighed them yet, but I intend to when I get them back, but they feel a lot lighter than the spiders.... Im hoping to make Burghley but I'm moving house and starting a new business venture this year so I'm up to my neck in it free time wise, but fingers crossed I will be thereGood to see you back, hopefully catch you at Burghley House later.
This morning I cut my skin the shreds trying ti get the starter motor out.
It was the worst part of doing the slave cylinder change 2 years ago and it's still the worst thing I've come across on a Cerbera.
I keep reading that people can get it out the top. I don't see how it possibly can without removing the fuel rail and throttle bodies. It would be easier to remove the gearbox mount and unbolt the propshaft from the diff again and get it out the bottom.
Anyway, it was cleaned in situ and it works a little better but it's still basically goosed. Joy.
It was the worst part of doing the slave cylinder change 2 years ago and it's still the worst thing I've come across on a Cerbera.
I keep reading that people can get it out the top. I don't see how it possibly can without removing the fuel rail and throttle bodies. It would be easier to remove the gearbox mount and unbolt the propshaft from the diff again and get it out the bottom.
Anyway, it was cleaned in situ and it works a little better but it's still basically goosed. Joy.
Jamie, assuming you have an AJP I'd have to say I think the top down approach to the starter motor is pretty easy. It was the first job on mine as the starter gave up on day 4 of ownership and, having since faffed about with the gearbox whilst replacing a leaking clutch slave cylinder, I'd prefer to take the fuel rail and the n/s inlet manifold off. At least I can see what I'm trying to do that way.
As for my car, I washed it and disassembled and reassembled the brakes with some Mintex anti-squeal stuff in an attempt to stop them squeaking. Seems to have worked.
As for my car, I washed it and disassembled and reassembled the brakes with some Mintex anti-squeal stuff in an attempt to stop them squeaking. Seems to have worked.
jamieduff1981 said:
This morning I cut my skin the shreds trying ti get the starter motor out.
It was the worst part of doing the slave cylinder change 2 years ago and it's still the worst thing I've come across on a Cerbera.
I keep reading that people can get it out the top. I don't see how it possibly can without removing the fuel rail and throttle bodies. It would be easier to remove the gearbox mount and unbolt the propshaft from the diff again and get it out the bottom.
Anyway, it was cleaned in situ and it works a little better but it's still basically goosed. Joy.
It's why I put a new one in when I had the body off chassis repair. Seemed sensible to do at the time as it was just starting to get intermittant.It was the worst part of doing the slave cylinder change 2 years ago and it's still the worst thing I've come across on a Cerbera.
I keep reading that people can get it out the top. I don't see how it possibly can without removing the fuel rail and throttle bodies. It would be easier to remove the gearbox mount and unbolt the propshaft from the diff again and get it out the bottom.
Anyway, it was cleaned in situ and it works a little better but it's still basically goosed. Joy.
I took mine out on Saturday, wheelspin in second and third meant it was driven carefully.
Just collected her from 12K service, and took for a celebratory drive to feel the new shocks and setup. As roads not that grippy took it relatively easy, but once fully warmed up stretched the legs in 3rd a few times...
One of the rear Protechs had lost it's damping, so had all 4 refurbed then the car corner weighted to re-setup.
One of the rear Protechs had lost it's damping, so had all 4 refurbed then the car corner weighted to re-setup.
mikeinsheffield said:
Just collected her from 12K service, and took for a celebratory drive to feel the new shocks and setup. As roads not that grippy towok it relatively easy, but once fully warmed up stretched the legs in 3rd a few times...
One of the rear Protechs had lost it's damping, so had all 4 refurbed then the car corner weighted to re-setup.
Hi Mike, how many miles do you think you've done on the protects ? Mine are looking a bit shabby but no signs of any issues yetOne of the rear Protechs had lost it's damping, so had all 4 refurbed then the car corner weighted to re-setup.
Edited by Gray_101 on Saturday 28th February 12:56
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