Getting Steering rack out of frame
Discussion
It comes out the driver's side fairly easily really.
Disconnect the track rods and remove from the track rods completely.
Remove the transfer pipes from the rack (note, if you can't undo them at the pinion then its not essential, so long as the other ends are off).
Disconnect and remove all the cooling pipes in there to give access.
Disconnect the pressure and return pipes from the pinion part of the rack and undo the universal coupling. Take a picture to ensure you get everything the right way round.
Undo the 4 nuts and bolts that hold the rack to the chassis.
Pull the rack forward to clear the coupling.
Now move the entire rack towards the passenger side pushing it through the chassis side. If you could not undo the transfer pipes at the pinion, then bend them to allow the rack to move as far to the passenger side as possible through the side of the frame.
Now, using grips, turn the pinion shaft so that the track rods move fully towards the passenger side (imagine you are on full right hand lock). This is the bit that allows clearance.
Lift the rack at the driver's side up and slowly pull it up, forward and out. With some careful movement it will just come up and out over the wing. I used several towels to protect it just in case.
The transfer pipes will get in the way but simply bend them as required.
It took me on my own 20 minutes to get it out but 2 minutes to get it back in following a reversal of the above. Fit the transfer pipes after it is back in place.
Also, ensure the adaptor in the pinion for the return pipe is not missing as my first repairer "lost" it.
You will need patience, a swear box and a cup of tea.
Disconnect the track rods and remove from the track rods completely.
Remove the transfer pipes from the rack (note, if you can't undo them at the pinion then its not essential, so long as the other ends are off).
Disconnect and remove all the cooling pipes in there to give access.
Disconnect the pressure and return pipes from the pinion part of the rack and undo the universal coupling. Take a picture to ensure you get everything the right way round.
Undo the 4 nuts and bolts that hold the rack to the chassis.
Pull the rack forward to clear the coupling.
Now move the entire rack towards the passenger side pushing it through the chassis side. If you could not undo the transfer pipes at the pinion, then bend them to allow the rack to move as far to the passenger side as possible through the side of the frame.
Now, using grips, turn the pinion shaft so that the track rods move fully towards the passenger side (imagine you are on full right hand lock). This is the bit that allows clearance.
Lift the rack at the driver's side up and slowly pull it up, forward and out. With some careful movement it will just come up and out over the wing. I used several towels to protect it just in case.
The transfer pipes will get in the way but simply bend them as required.
It took me on my own 20 minutes to get it out but 2 minutes to get it back in following a reversal of the above. Fit the transfer pipes after it is back in place.
Also, ensure the adaptor in the pinion for the return pipe is not missing as my first repairer "lost" it.
You will need patience, a swear box and a cup of tea.
Edited by N7GTX on Tuesday 19th August 17:01
I don't have any images that would help, but I just looked at my rebuild pics to remind myself of the method I used. It must be noted that there was NOTHING else attached to the chassis when I did mine, it was the last item to come off, and the first to go back on.
1) Remove transfer pipes.
2) Remove drivers side track rod end.
3) Slide the rack as far as you can to the passenger side (the pinion housing will hit the chassis), roll the rack as required to get it as far outboard.
4) Bend the drivers side track rod at the UJ forward and up - you're aiming to get the end of the rod to the forward drivers side corner of the large triangle in the upper chassis 'box' when viewed from above.
5) Feed the rack to the drivers side and up through the chassis, now bending the passenger side rod up at its UJ will help as you pass the rack out. You also have to roll the rack as you go to get it past some of the chassis members.
Good luck.
Olly
1) Remove transfer pipes.
2) Remove drivers side track rod end.
3) Slide the rack as far as you can to the passenger side (the pinion housing will hit the chassis), roll the rack as required to get it as far outboard.
4) Bend the drivers side track rod at the UJ forward and up - you're aiming to get the end of the rod to the forward drivers side corner of the large triangle in the upper chassis 'box' when viewed from above.
5) Feed the rack to the drivers side and up through the chassis, now bending the passenger side rod up at its UJ will help as you pass the rack out. You also have to roll the rack as you go to get it past some of the chassis members.
Good luck.
Olly
I don't think it would make it any easier with the body off. The main problem is removing the track rods, which will probably be seized/threadlocked and remarkably stubborn; it wouldn't be so bad if there were something to counterhold which there isn't (not for both sides anyway). The copper transfer pipes should be formed so they follow the body of the rack, I have no idea why they don't, madness.
ukkid35 said:
The main problem is removing the track rods,
Paul, no need to remove the track rods and as you say, too bl##dy tight anyway. The trick is to turn the pinion so the passenger side rod is fully extended to allow the driver's side to be bent up and then it will just clear the frame. It is a good fit though.ukkid35 said:
I don't think it would make it any easier with the body off. The main problem is removing the track rods, which will probably be seized/threadlocked and remarkably stubborn; it wouldn't be so bad if there were something to counterhold which there isn't (not for both sides anyway). The copper transfer pipes should be formed so they follow the body of the rack, I have no idea why they don't, madness.
It doesn't 
tried with body on and off. I'd rather remove the rear diff and replace the top diff bush again than take the rack out.... It's that much of a s
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