cylinder heads
Discussion
I'm sure there's a better way but I just used my old cranked 15mm ring spanner, I it was from one of the first tool sets I bought when I was 14 to work on my first car, it was very cheep but seems to have lasted.
In a very un-technical way I used a normal torque wrench on the outers & "felt" how hard I was pulling by standing in a certain position so that I was maxing out the strength in my arm at the correct torque. Then I stuck a bit of pipe over the ring spanner so I had the same distance to the nut from my hand as I had on the torque wrench & applied the same amount of force. I tried doing it on one of the outers then checked it with the torque wrench & it was spot on.
That method worked well on the engine stand, but when I had to pull the engine just after fitting to take the heads back off again I forgot to use the extension bar on the cranked 15mm ring spanner & just undid them powered by rage & then thought I'd got early arthritis for the next month or so from over straining my fingers. I also left it bolted to the gear box so it was on the floor & using my maxing out arm strength method while bending over gave me piles
To do it correctly you could get a bar of a set length & slip that over your ring spanner & measure out the correct amount of force with some kind of load cell or weighing scale.
In a very un-technical way I used a normal torque wrench on the outers & "felt" how hard I was pulling by standing in a certain position so that I was maxing out the strength in my arm at the correct torque. Then I stuck a bit of pipe over the ring spanner so I had the same distance to the nut from my hand as I had on the torque wrench & applied the same amount of force. I tried doing it on one of the outers then checked it with the torque wrench & it was spot on.
That method worked well on the engine stand, but when I had to pull the engine just after fitting to take the heads back off again I forgot to use the extension bar on the cranked 15mm ring spanner & just undid them powered by rage & then thought I'd got early arthritis for the next month or so from over straining my fingers. I also left it bolted to the gear box so it was on the floor & using my maxing out arm strength method while bending over gave me piles
To do it correctly you could get a bar of a set length & slip that over your ring spanner & measure out the correct amount of force with some kind of load cell or weighing scale.
I was lent a set of socket extensions by an incredibly generous Cerb owner. Unfortunately I have worn them out, but I will post photos later so you can see what you need to do. When you attach a torque wrench at 90 degrees, the wrench will measure accurately. It's still a horribly difficult job though as djstevec will testify, he helped me with the reassembly which was absolutely invaluable.
I would suggest getting a digital wrench such as a Brownline, although I have one now I didn't have one at the time unfortunately.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360858931824
I would suggest getting a digital wrench such as a Brownline, although I have one now I didn't have one at the time unfortunately.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360858931824
The usual answer is a Norbar torque handle with the appropriate sized ring end attachments. Towards the bottom of this page http://www.norbar.com/Products/tabid/54/view/categ...
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