4.5 throttle linkage wear and general poor running
Discussion
Your leaking manifolds won't have much impact on the running issues mine leaked since I got it until I pulled the engine and changed them last year, it ran well enough just gassed me a little in the cabin ha ha.
But it does sound like your on the right track now, the lambdas should not affect wide throttle but dud leads for sure break down higher up, had this with leads and coil packs on my cerb.
But it does sound like your on the right track now, the lambdas should not affect wide throttle but dud leads for sure break down higher up, had this with leads and coil packs on my cerb.
jamieduff1981 said:
I'm getting somewhere...
The Racetech HT leads arrived today. I removed the airboxes and inlet hoses, and noticed that I had a manifold crack on Odd/Driver Side bank. Hmm thinks I. It looks accessible from above but I thought I'd remove the manifold and get someone else to weld it.
I unplugged the lambda and they had been accidently crossed banks when plugged in to the loom. Easy to do - it's fiddly. That can't have been helping with a leaky manifold and the lambda adjusting the other bank to compensate.
I changed my mind about removing the manifold and just MIG welded the crack myself. I haven't reassembled the car yet but with the manifold and lambdas sorted and non-Magnecor HT leads I reckon it'll run miles better!
If not, I'll be crying!
I'd be stunned if sorting that lot doesn't sort your issues. The Racetech HT leads arrived today. I removed the airboxes and inlet hoses, and noticed that I had a manifold crack on Odd/Driver Side bank. Hmm thinks I. It looks accessible from above but I thought I'd remove the manifold and get someone else to weld it.
I unplugged the lambda and they had been accidently crossed banks when plugged in to the loom. Easy to do - it's fiddly. That can't have been helping with a leaky manifold and the lambda adjusting the other bank to compensate.
I changed my mind about removing the manifold and just MIG welded the crack myself. I haven't reassembled the car yet but with the manifold and lambdas sorted and non-Magnecor HT leads I reckon it'll run miles better!
If not, I'll be crying!
Be prepared to do another full set up though - if the linkage/ airflow/ pots have been set up to get the car running with the current issues, it'll need doing again to get it spot on.
Can't think why? The throttle set up is about getting the airflow equal on the way in at minimal load where it runs well, to get the throttle pots doing the same thing at the same time and to set the idle screw.
It'll need the adaptives cleared again, but I can't see how dud HT leads and crossed lambdas would affect the butterflies and potentiometers?
It'll need the adaptives cleared again, but I can't see how dud HT leads and crossed lambdas would affect the butterflies and potentiometers?
The table you posted earlier showing the adpatives doesn't suggest the lambdas are crossed .. when they're crossed they usually very quickly max out to +37% on one bank and -37% on the other.
Also lambdas are ignored over throttle site 10, so even if they were crossed you'd have poor running low down but getting better once the throttle is opened past site 10 .. the exact opposite of what your symptoms are ?
Also lambdas are ignored over throttle site 10, so even if they were crossed you'd have poor running low down but getting better once the throttle is opened past site 10 .. the exact opposite of what your symptoms are ?
Not directly related to this, but has anyone got the 4.5 throttle arms to work exactly in parallel? Mine are about 10 degs out, so they don't open and close at the same rate.
I would like to fix it, but there are flats in the throttle spindles that I would need to alter, sounds easy but is probably anything but.
I would like to fix it, but there are flats in the throttle spindles that I would need to alter, sounds easy but is probably anything but.
Quite a few cars came from the factory like this .. they knew about it but didn't do any recall for it.
I just weld a bit on the side of the arm and re-drill to put the ball joint in the right place. Sometimes you don't have to move it far and can just re-drill the existing arm if you're lucky.
I just weld a bit on the side of the arm and re-drill to put the ball joint in the right place. Sometimes you don't have to move it far and can just re-drill the existing arm if you're lucky.
Joolz is the Cerb a wasted spark set up? It runs, so it's either wasted spark or I've just f*cked up the lead numbering when I first fitted them. I did them one at a time. The print on the cable is not important but the coil pack and LT plug into coil pack is.
Which coil goes with which bank?
Which coil goes with which bank?
I thought one coil per bank?
Copy and paste link to get to diagram
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Copy and paste link to get to diagram
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Ta muchly. I didn't touch the car this weekend. I'm positive all the leads from one bank go to a single coil though, and vice versa. I suspect this is just a previous lead numbering mistake on my part though. Nevertheless, I'll sort it out. Unfortunately it means the lambdas were ok so I've unplugged the buggers for nothing. Doh!
greenracing said:
I thought one coil per bank?
Copy and paste link to get to diagram
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
This is correct as I have this printed and on the first page of my workshop manual, referred to it many times. A coil per bank 100%!Copy and paste link to get to diagram
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
spitfire4v8 said:
Quite a few cars came from the factory like this .. they knew about it but didn't do any recall for it.
I just weld a bit on the side of the arm and re-drill to put the ball joint in the right place. Sometimes you don't have to move it far and can just re-drill the existing arm if you're lucky.
Thanks, will do that. Just found one of the spindle springs has broken so need to replace that anyway.I just weld a bit on the side of the arm and re-drill to put the ball joint in the right place. Sometimes you don't have to move it far and can just re-drill the existing arm if you're lucky.
head...
You may get another - it refuses to start now.
I wasted a load of fuel in one of my proper cars trying to jump it when it ran out of electricity cranking, and it's now recharging for the night.
There appears to be nothing amiss on RS-AJP and I double checked the HT leads were plugged in to the correct cylinders, the correct plugs on the coil packs and that the coil packs were plugged in to the correct loom for their respective banks.
I hate this car.
I wasted a load of fuel in one of my proper cars trying to jump it when it ran out of electricity cranking, and it's now recharging for the night.
There appears to be nothing amiss on RS-AJP and I double checked the HT leads were plugged in to the correct cylinders, the correct plugs on the coil packs and that the coil packs were plugged in to the correct loom for their respective banks.
I hate this car.
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