Wishbone Bush removal ?
Discussion
On my Honda bushes I reached 9.5 ton to make them shift.
On the cerb when I did the drag link bushes i think it only took 6 ton to move them.
Depends if the outer bush sleeve is rusted in.
Also carefull mounting and suitable drifts make a difference.
I would go with the 10 ton.
One of the most useful tools in my workshop that I didn't realise how many uses it has.
I carefully pressed the race proved slave into the housing, mainly to keep it square (as is the preferred method in the instructions).
On the cerb when I did the drag link bushes i think it only took 6 ton to move them.
Depends if the outer bush sleeve is rusted in.
Also carefull mounting and suitable drifts make a difference.
I would go with the 10 ton.
One of the most useful tools in my workshop that I didn't realise how many uses it has.
I carefully pressed the race proved slave into the housing, mainly to keep it square (as is the preferred method in the instructions).
Jonnie B said:
Thank you for the advice.
One other queston:
As i'am putting new OE rubber bushs back, after the arms are powder coated do you have to clean the powder coating out of where the the bush will be inserted ?
Thank's
John.
Yes. If you don't the bush may bind plus when it comes out the other side will cause the powder coating to peel off.One other queston:
As i'am putting new OE rubber bushs back, after the arms are powder coated do you have to clean the powder coating out of where the the bush will be inserted ?
Thank's
John.
Once the bush is in paint round between the bush and the wishbone to seal & prevent rust.
I've just taken the body off my Cerb and will be going through the same process that you are talking about Jonnie so it should be interesting to compare notes. I hope to be stripping down the chassis this weekend - key point for all TVR owners is that the chassis looks a lot worse from above that it did from below!!
mikeufo said:
I've just taken the body off my Cerb and will be going through the same process that you are talking about Jonnie so it should be interesting to compare notes. I hope to be stripping down the chassis this weekend - key point for all TVR owners is that the chassis looks a lot worse from above that it did from below!!
Hi Michael Yes it will.
Now i've started my Xmas holidays, so i've finally got started.
Engine & gearbox out, now just starting to find & release all of the body fixing points.
John.
John,
I've got engine and gearbox out, also got body off - steam cleaned the chassis today to find some pretty unusual things. First, the car has obviously had a shunt, passenger side front suspension brackets are bent. On the out riggers someone had done an excellent job in covering the damage with an extra thick layer of waxoil!! There appears to be a split that runs along the length of the outrigger tube. Does anyone know if these tubes were made of rolled plate that was then welded along the length?
A couple of places that I got caught out while removing the body - 1. The bolts that are behind the centre console are a nightmare to get to - they are allen key bolts. 2. Bolts not mentioned anywhere that I have read - in the boot there are 4 bolts - 2 go downwards with the bolt head underneath the petrol tank and 2 go forwards into the rear of the chassis. 3. When you take out the crash helmet holder there are two bolts that hold the seatbelt holder to the car - these also hold the body to the chassis. 4. There are also two bolts at the very from of the chassis - bottom rail, as far forward as you can go - to begin with I missed these, also mine were (are) completely siezed - bolt head broke off - I still need to work out how to cure this issue. Let me know if you get stuck - I'd be glad to help. I've been very fortunate since I've had complete access to a pit and full garage facilities as well as help from my brother and nephew. Even with this it took me 4 full days to get engine out and body off. I'm hoping to have the chassis galvanised and then powder coated, but first I need to find someone to repair the chassis.
I've got engine and gearbox out, also got body off - steam cleaned the chassis today to find some pretty unusual things. First, the car has obviously had a shunt, passenger side front suspension brackets are bent. On the out riggers someone had done an excellent job in covering the damage with an extra thick layer of waxoil!! There appears to be a split that runs along the length of the outrigger tube. Does anyone know if these tubes were made of rolled plate that was then welded along the length?
A couple of places that I got caught out while removing the body - 1. The bolts that are behind the centre console are a nightmare to get to - they are allen key bolts. 2. Bolts not mentioned anywhere that I have read - in the boot there are 4 bolts - 2 go downwards with the bolt head underneath the petrol tank and 2 go forwards into the rear of the chassis. 3. When you take out the crash helmet holder there are two bolts that hold the seatbelt holder to the car - these also hold the body to the chassis. 4. There are also two bolts at the very from of the chassis - bottom rail, as far forward as you can go - to begin with I missed these, also mine were (are) completely siezed - bolt head broke off - I still need to work out how to cure this issue. Let me know if you get stuck - I'd be glad to help. I've been very fortunate since I've had complete access to a pit and full garage facilities as well as help from my brother and nephew. Even with this it took me 4 full days to get engine out and body off. I'm hoping to have the chassis galvanised and then powder coated, but first I need to find someone to repair the chassis.
A 10-ton press failed to push the old ones out on my car and I ended up having to do the burning trick.
As I was replacing them with Powerflex ones re-fitting wasn't an issue.
I always thought the chassis was made from seamless tubing but that pic seems to show that your car wasn't, or at least the piece of tube in the picture wasn't seamless.
As I was replacing them with Powerflex ones re-fitting wasn't an issue.
I always thought the chassis was made from seamless tubing but that pic seems to show that your car wasn't, or at least the piece of tube in the picture wasn't seamless.
I pushed the centre of each bush out using a vice and some old sockets, these come out easily as you are just parting the rubber.
I then inserted a hacksaw blade and carefully cut a slot in the remaining sleeve. This can be pushed out with very little effort.
All quite easy if you have a decent vice but time consuming!
I then inserted a hacksaw blade and carefully cut a slot in the remaining sleeve. This can be pushed out with very little effort.
All quite easy if you have a decent vice but time consuming!
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff