wiper motor problem stays and question about wiper ECU
Discussion
My last wiper motor completely burnt out. Even the connector to the wiper motor got hot. The fuse on my car is on nr. 16 on the fusebox. Do not know if this is right one according to the wiring diagram. It had been burnt in the past and a repair had been made to the fusebox. A new wipermotor is now fitted. I changed the connector to the wiper motor, because i thought this was the reason my fuse burnt when i tried to engage the wipermotor with ignition on. I went down to the wiper ecu. Saw that wiring has been hot there too. What can I do to be sure the ecu is ok? I opened it and it didn't look burnt.....
Check the output voltages from the ECU when running the wipers, if they are dropping but the input is still 12volt then the ecu has burnt contacts.
Have you checked the current draw at the fuse, should be around 5amps with the wipers on, if more then check that the mechanism is free as they are getting old and can wear.
Have you checked the current draw at the fuse, should be around 5amps with the wipers on, if more then check that the mechanism is free as they are getting old and can wear.
Check the output voltages from the ECU when running the wipers, if they are dropping but the input is still 12volt then the ecu has burnt contacts.
Have you checked the current draw at the fuse, should be around 5amps with the wipers on, if more then check that the mechanism is free as they are getting old and can wear.
Have you checked the current draw at the fuse, should be around 5amps with the wipers on, if more then check that the mechanism is free as they are getting old and can wear.
My old wiper motor burnt out. It also made my fuse collapse, but i didn't know. I then put the new motor in. I pushed the button on the steering wheel, but nothing happened. Checked the fuses and saw that the fuse was broken. P
Ut a new one in. Ignition on. Still ok. Pushed the button again and immediately the fuse burnt. At first i thought the connector on the wiper motor was damaged, so ordered a new one. It was still the same. So, with ognition on the fuse doesn't burn. As soon as i try thr button the fuse blows. It i put 12 volt on the pin which comes from the steering wheel button, for example "speed 1-function" I should measure 12 volt on the "speed 1-wire" to the wiper motor?
Ut a new one in. Ignition on. Still ok. Pushed the button again and immediately the fuse burnt. At first i thought the connector on the wiper motor was damaged, so ordered a new one. It was still the same. So, with ognition on the fuse doesn't burn. As soon as i try thr button the fuse blows. It i put 12 volt on the pin which comes from the steering wheel button, for example "speed 1-function" I should measure 12 volt on the "speed 1-wire" to the wiper motor?
My old wiper motor burnt out. It also made my fuse collapse, but i didn't know. I then put the new motor in. I pushed the button on the steering wheel, but nothing happened. Checked the fuses and saw that the fuse was broken. P
Ut a new one in. Ignition on. Still ok. Pushed the button again and immediately the fuse burnt. At first i thought the connector on the wiper motor was damaged, so ordered a new one. It was still the same. So, with ognition on the fuse doesn't burn. As soon as i try thr button the fuse blows. It i put 12 volt on the pin which comes from the steering wheel button, for example "speed 1-function" I should measure 12 volt on the "speed 1-wire" to the wiper motor?
Ut a new one in. Ignition on. Still ok. Pushed the button again and immediately the fuse burnt. At first i thought the connector on the wiper motor was damaged, so ordered a new one. It was still the same. So, with ognition on the fuse doesn't burn. As soon as i try thr button the fuse blows. It i put 12 volt on the pin which comes from the steering wheel button, for example "speed 1-function" I should measure 12 volt on the "speed 1-wire" to the wiper motor?
Try isolating parts of the system, if you disconnect the wiper motor does the fuse still blow after the button is pressed, if so then you have a problem in the motor or the mechanical part of the system, if the motor cannot spin freely due to mechanical drag it will draw more current.
Did you try the mechanism before fitting the new motor, if it is full of dirt, which the often are, this was probably the cause of the first motor to burn out.
Good luck.
Did you try the mechanism before fitting the new motor, if it is full of dirt, which the often are, this was probably the cause of the first motor to burn out.
Good luck.
Thanks. I am going to try it this way. When I pulled out the wire which drives the 2 drive boxes, no dirt came out. The boxes turned without a problem. Problem with the wiper motor were caused by the motor itself to mu opinion because the spindle that drives the plastic wheel in the gearbox had too much play and therefore it jammed and got very hot. I am going to check section by section.
Hi
I went out in the Cerbie on Sunday and the washer's failed, and due to then having a dry screen, the wipers stopped in the upright position.
Well I found the washer problem, the main pipe had separated from a connection up near the main coolant header tank. That's now fixed and the washers work great but the wipers will not move, it's as thou they are seized! I have checked the wiper fuse num 15 and that's OK.
So is it the wiper motor seized or the wiper box?
Or has anybody else got any idea's?
If it's the wiper motor etc how do you remove it?
Andy
I went out in the Cerbie on Sunday and the washer's failed, and due to then having a dry screen, the wipers stopped in the upright position.
Well I found the washer problem, the main pipe had separated from a connection up near the main coolant header tank. That's now fixed and the washers work great but the wipers will not move, it's as thou they are seized! I have checked the wiper fuse num 15 and that's OK.
So is it the wiper motor seized or the wiper box?
Or has anybody else got any idea's?
If it's the wiper motor etc how do you remove it?
Andy
Mr Tank said:
Hi
I went out in the Cerbie on Sunday and the washer's failed, and due to then having a dry screen, the wipers stopped in the upright position.
Well I found the washer problem, the main pipe had separated from a connection up near the main coolant header tank. That's now fixed and the washers work great but the wipers will not move, it's as thou they are seized! I have checked the wiper fuse num 15 and that's OK.
So is it the wiper motor seized or the wiper box?
Or has anybody else got any idea's?
If it's the wiper motor etc how do you remove it?
Andy
Try gently manipulating the wiper arm - worked for me when mine stuck.I went out in the Cerbie on Sunday and the washer's failed, and due to then having a dry screen, the wipers stopped in the upright position.
Well I found the washer problem, the main pipe had separated from a connection up near the main coolant header tank. That's now fixed and the washers work great but the wipers will not move, it's as thou they are seized! I have checked the wiper fuse num 15 and that's OK.
So is it the wiper motor seized or the wiper box?
Or has anybody else got any idea's?
If it's the wiper motor etc how do you remove it?
Andy
Hi
Well I got the motor out with out two many problem's
With the motor removed the arms now move, but one is a bit out of sink and I think the spindle is lose. Now how do you get to them, they appear to be covered with a black cover which no doubt will be masticed to the baulk head after you remove the two small bolts holding it in place?
Next thing any ideas for a replacement wiper motor as the original is burnt out, the brush plate is not re-usable, and the whole motor has the burnt electric smell.
On the motor the details say it's a 12V 29W motor with a Lucas number 60027021A on it!
Andy
Well I got the motor out with out two many problem's
With the motor removed the arms now move, but one is a bit out of sink and I think the spindle is lose. Now how do you get to them, they appear to be covered with a black cover which no doubt will be masticed to the baulk head after you remove the two small bolts holding it in place?
Next thing any ideas for a replacement wiper motor as the original is burnt out, the brush plate is not re-usable, and the whole motor has the burnt electric smell.
On the motor the details say it's a 12V 29W motor with a Lucas number 60027021A on it!
Andy
Adrian@ said:
I think you will find that the £135 quoted at TVR Parts is actually £174.00, for the armature and magnet housing, you will still need to add a new park switch/brush set/gear/gear bearings/gearbox casing/rack/rack guide/conrod/conrod bearings if any of these are required.
Adrian@
Adrian@
Adrian@ said:
I think you will find that the £135 quoted at TVR Parts is actually £174.00, for the armature and magnet housing, you will still need to add a new park switch/brush set/gear/gear bearings/gearbox casing/rack/rack guide/conrod/conrod bearings if any of these are required.
Adrian@
Hi AdrianAdrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Monday 26th January 14:48
Yes the TVR parts motor is going to need a load more parts.
I also need the wiper box's which Adrian has given me a lead on, but that means I have to remove the black cover on the engine baulk head.
Before I start ripping things off and do some damage has anybody else done this job and if so what is the best way to do it!
I have already removed the 2 bolts holding it on so what's next?
Andy
Personally i wouldn't replace any components that weren't obviously shot,, the wheel boxes and motor gears don't usually wear out and a bit of lubrication is all that is needed. I replaced a complete system of this type on a very high mileage classic car and the new bits were not noticeably looser/tighter/better than the bits i took out.
Has anyone tried just using a standard 14W wiper motor, after all do Cerb wipers really need to have a higher wattage motor than a Landrover Freelander ?
Has anyone tried just using a standard 14W wiper motor, after all do Cerb wipers really need to have a higher wattage motor than a Landrover Freelander ?
I went through this few years back. You need to remove the wiper arms, then drill out the two rivets holding down the panel that is behind the wiper spindles. ( one at each end of the panel, maybe hidden by the screen rubber). If my memory serves me, the black cover that houses the wiper rack is held in place by lots of mastic, so it won't release when you have removed the bolts. Good luck. Be careful when removing the closing panel behind the spindles, it is very thin and fragile.
GT6k said:
Personally i wouldn't replace any components that weren't obviously shot,, the wheel boxes and motor gears don't usually wear out and a bit of lubrication is all that is needed. I replaced a complete system of this type on a very high mileage classic car and the new bits were not noticeably looser/tighter/better than the bits i took out.
Has anyone tried just using a standard 14W wiper motor, after all do Cerb wipers really need to have a higher wattage motor than a Landrover Freelander ?
HiHas anyone tried just using a standard 14W wiper motor, after all do Cerb wipers really need to have a higher wattage motor than a Landrover Freelander ?
A 14K motor will not be strong enough the 29W motor struggles at times.
Ref the wheel boxes, one does need replacing and as it appears you have to remove a great deal to get to them it makes sense to replace them both. Because sods law if I don't the other one will fail shortly after putting it all back together, and at £20 a wheel box it's not an arm and a leg!
Andy
Hi
Well what a pig of a job. We at last got the new wiper wheel boxes in and with the rebuilt wiper motor from Adrian at Exactly TVR they now work better than new!
Adrian did a great job on the wiper motor and a quick turn around to, all for less than a used one from any of the usual TVR brakers!
Andy
Well what a pig of a job. We at last got the new wiper wheel boxes in and with the rebuilt wiper motor from Adrian at Exactly TVR they now work better than new!
Adrian did a great job on the wiper motor and a quick turn around to, all for less than a used one from any of the usual TVR brakers!
Andy
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