Cerbera as a GT
Discussion
jamieduff1981 said:
For clarity, my cats aren't in either and the carpets still get hot - I just think Cerbera cabin temperature control is very poor, fundamentally because of the two-fan system with unmixed outlets which means your feet can be burning whilst getting frostbite on your face and deafened by the whistling from the windscreen outlets.
Not sure I updated my thread with my efforts and my run to France and back in the summer. When I had the engine/gear box out I went to great lengths to avoid ever being cooked in a tvr ever again.
I had my new manifolds ceramic coated, fitted heat reflecting aluminium rally foil inside the transmission tunnel. While fitting new carpets fitted heat reflecting material inside the car under the carpets. Fitted silenced de cats and made sure my air con is in good order.
The car is perfect in 30+ degree heat now. A lot of effort to get it there but well worth it if planning any euro driving.
But there are pretty terrible heating cooling systems, ice cold to drive in winter so I don't
Edited by scotty_d on Thursday 22 January 22:07
thefrog said:
The other issue (please tell me there is a fix), is that if the outside temperature is low, you get plenty of cold air through the bulkhead and frozen legs, feet, hands but a nice warm head, even with the heating on full blast.
I did a lot of work on this a few years back tracing the flow or air into the drivers side cabin. Basically what is happening is the air is rushing in through the wing and then through to your knees through openings in the bulkhead. The inner wing should be filled with foam to help reduce the air flow but it's not always very effective.
One of the main culprits for letting the air in is the hole under the indicator as boatbuoy has shown. On mine I stuck a piece of black perspex on the inside of the wing as the car is black it is very desecrate.
There should also be a panel inside the 'mouth' in front to the left and also right of the radiator (tucked out of sight) preventing air going into the wings and thus also helping the air pass through the radiator to aid cooling.
Inside the cabin there are a lot of places that can be sealed. There is an large inspection hatch to the right of the pedals. Sealing this up helps prevent some air passing in. Also the cold air blowers the pipework doesn't seal very well and is right above your knees. Your blowers may be off but at speed the air from outside still passes through and finds these leaks. Sealing these up reduces the draught and also will help give you more powerful blow (ooh err missus) from your blowers when you need it in the summer.
Also the grommets in the bulkhead are probably also letting a lot of air in.
I find that if I go above a certain speed the air suddenly finds a way in to the cabin somewhere near my knees. I had assumed this was a door seal leaking, but reading this thread that seems unlikely. Annoyingly this noisy leak does not reseal until a lot of speed is scrubbed off, rather than just dropping below the trigger speed.
Many thanks for all your answers so far - i think i can safely say a Cerb can be a decent cruiser
For reference, when we're not taking the old Jag, we're 'cruising' in a track prepped Clio 172 RS with hardly any interiour/sound isolation left, and we still manage to do 2-3hr trips in that despite the noise;)
For reference, when we're not taking the old Jag, we're 'cruising' in a track prepped Clio 172 RS with hardly any interiour/sound isolation left, and we still manage to do 2-3hr trips in that despite the noise;)ukkid35 said:
I find that if I go above a certain speed the air suddenly finds a way in to the cabin somewhere near my knees. I had assumed this was a door seal leaking, but reading this thread that seems unlikely. Annoyingly this noisy leak does not reseal until a lot of speed is scrubbed off, rather than just dropping below the trigger speed.
Paul, stuff a rubber ball into the air intake by the drivers side indicator, that will sort your issue out.ukkid35 said:
I find that if I go above a certain speed the air suddenly finds a way in to the cabin somewhere near my knees. I had assumed this was a door seal leaking, but reading this thread that seems unlikely. Annoyingly this noisy leak does not reseal until a lot of speed is scrubbed off, rather than just dropping below the trigger speed.
Mine still gets in but it is no where near as bad as it once was. I think I start to feel it around 80 but it's not too bad. My biggest problem is how cold the engine runs at that speed and consequently no heat from the hot blowers. I've got to check and possible change my Thermostat. Hopefully this will help this side of things.
I love taking mine (4.2 AJP) on a long trip - it just eats up the miles with no effort - and certainly one of the most comfortable long distance cars I have.
Can get about 27mpg too, if you just cruise as the engine is so understressed at motorway speeds.
Did Normandy and back 400 miles round trip in just over 24 hours with 4 adults in last summer. Not sure the ones in the back would like to repeat it but it was a wonderful trip!.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I'm also in London and often use it as my daily commute, it's fine in traffic but the clutch is a little heavy. Can fit under the barrier in Waitrose car parks too...
Just do it!
Joe
Can get about 27mpg too, if you just cruise as the engine is so understressed at motorway speeds.
Did Normandy and back 400 miles round trip in just over 24 hours with 4 adults in last summer. Not sure the ones in the back would like to repeat it but it was a wonderful trip!.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I'm also in London and often use it as my daily commute, it's fine in traffic but the clutch is a little heavy. Can fit under the barrier in Waitrose car parks too...
Just do it!
Joe
I also have a 3.0 Jag Xtype. I'd say my Cerbera feels so much better to drive than the Jag anyday. It feels far more stable on the motorway and soaks up bumps better round town too.
But then the Cerb is just under 60k and had Gaz golds fitted about 7-8 years ago and the Jag 114k and still original equipment.
But then the Cerb is just under 60k and had Gaz golds fitted about 7-8 years ago and the Jag 114k and still original equipment.
Thanks for the info all. Another question that rests is to what extend current (nearly 20yr old Cerberas) are still performance motor cars? I understand they're nearly 20 years old, and I don't thrash my cars, but a main draw for me is the (still) stellar performance of the cars. However, one owner told me his car was not inviting to take over 100mph, and today a main tvr specialist also told me that "these cars shouldn't be taken over 80mph".
Given the car's specs, these comments surprise me a bit. The cerbera would also be a replacement for my track car, so would effectively be doing ca 6 track days annually. I obviously will take care of the necessary upgrades (pads, fluid, tyres, shocks) and take into account the wear and tear, but aforementioned comments do not inspire very much to take this to a track, or take it for a blast on a German autobahn.
What are your experiences regarding this? Happy to hear your comments
Given the car's specs, these comments surprise me a bit. The cerbera would also be a replacement for my track car, so would effectively be doing ca 6 track days annually. I obviously will take care of the necessary upgrades (pads, fluid, tyres, shocks) and take into account the wear and tear, but aforementioned comments do not inspire very much to take this to a track, or take it for a blast on a German autobahn.
What are your experiences regarding this? Happy to hear your comments
AdriaanB said:
However, one owner told me his car was not inviting to take over 100mph, and today a main tvr specialist also told me that "these cars shouldn't be taken over 80mph".
They are having a laugh with you.
If the car, esp. suspension and tyres, is sorted you should not be afraid of a blast on the autobahn.
When traffic allows even in a Griffith I am able to do relaxed 150 mph travelspeed open top while my bh is reading a magazine.
The Cerbera is even better than the Griff.
The task is getting a sorted TVR or do the homework yourself.
In the dry that is. Take care when wet.
Your problem may be, that the good TVRs are usually kept and are not on the market or at least have their price.
By the way what main tvr "specialist" was it?
Better do not touch.
When I bought my cerb it was terrifying in the wet and dry, but with shock, brakes, tyres and geo done it was a totally different car.
I believe that this stuff needs to be new (or at least in really good order) before you can get the most out of the car safely.
Mine still tries to kill me regularly, so take care, especially in the wet, but setup right and driven with the respect it deserves, it's a fantastic car that will keep you smiling on any road you drive it on.
Get one. Get it sorted. Take it where you want and enjoy every minute of it!
I believe that this stuff needs to be new (or at least in really good order) before you can get the most out of the car safely.
Mine still tries to kill me regularly, so take care, especially in the wet, but setup right and driven with the respect it deserves, it's a fantastic car that will keep you smiling on any road you drive it on.
Get one. Get it sorted. Take it where you want and enjoy every minute of it!
To the OP,
To reiterate what the other contributions have stated, the Cerbera can make a devastatingly effective GT car, although as you'd assume it leans much more to the sports end of the GT spectrum.
Good points:
AJP engine has far more torque that you'd expect, and the cerbera is a very light car - I think approx 1200kg - so "making good progress" without going mental is easy.
The longer wheelbase (compared to the Chimeara / Griff / T-series cars) makes for more predictable handling, and I think also slightly helps with a more compliant ride
Driving position is good (I have the later shape Cerbera - they were updated in approx 2000 I think, with a different windscreen (less like looking through a letter box like the first shape) and had the tuscan seats)
The high transmission tunnel makes a great arm rest, your other arm will be resting on the door, as it si compulsory to drive with the window open so you can hear the engine ;-)
It has a suprisingly large boot - it you use soft bags you can fit a lot in, and also can use the rear seats for luggage too. I have done a couple of trips to Le Mans and the Cerbera swallowed a huge amount of stuff, including a 10 man tent!
It's not too noisy with sports backbox, but decatted would prob be tiresome over long distances
You have the ability to turn from fast GT type progress to out and out sports car with a flex of your right ankle
I've done plently of 2-4+ hour trips without any issues, aches, etc and been to Le Mans twice
To answer your question "is it still a relevant sports car at almost 20 years old?"
Well, it's light (approx 1200 kg?)
It's powerful - between 340 - 420 bhp depending on engine, state of health, state of tune
It has very direct steering (you don't have to take your hands off the wheel for most driving)
If it has decent shocks and setup - it's a good handling car
It's pretty quick on the track (I've done the TVRCC Cadwell track day every year and thoroughly enjoyed myself)
It still turns heads and get appreciative comments - I think that it has aged very well and doesn't look "dated"
Points you might like to consider:
The direct steering means that you do have to pay attention at all times. I find that this helps me to keep alert rather that the soporific effect that lots of modern cars have on your driving
The rear seats are great for small children, but really its a 2 + 1 rather than a true 2 + 2 (the passenger seat moves a long way forward and has a generous footwell (some TVRs have the battery at front of passenger footwell, the Cerbera doesn't)
There are no traction control / electronic aides / ABS - however for many this is core to the "analogue" appeal of the driving
The only way to tell is to drive a few - please note that as an "older car" the suspension set up and condition will very enormously from car to car - so best to try a few.
Good luck !!!
To reiterate what the other contributions have stated, the Cerbera can make a devastatingly effective GT car, although as you'd assume it leans much more to the sports end of the GT spectrum.
Good points:
AJP engine has far more torque that you'd expect, and the cerbera is a very light car - I think approx 1200kg - so "making good progress" without going mental is easy.
The longer wheelbase (compared to the Chimeara / Griff / T-series cars) makes for more predictable handling, and I think also slightly helps with a more compliant ride
Driving position is good (I have the later shape Cerbera - they were updated in approx 2000 I think, with a different windscreen (less like looking through a letter box like the first shape) and had the tuscan seats)
The high transmission tunnel makes a great arm rest, your other arm will be resting on the door, as it si compulsory to drive with the window open so you can hear the engine ;-)
It has a suprisingly large boot - it you use soft bags you can fit a lot in, and also can use the rear seats for luggage too. I have done a couple of trips to Le Mans and the Cerbera swallowed a huge amount of stuff, including a 10 man tent!
It's not too noisy with sports backbox, but decatted would prob be tiresome over long distances
You have the ability to turn from fast GT type progress to out and out sports car with a flex of your right ankle
I've done plently of 2-4+ hour trips without any issues, aches, etc and been to Le Mans twice
To answer your question "is it still a relevant sports car at almost 20 years old?"
Well, it's light (approx 1200 kg?)
It's powerful - between 340 - 420 bhp depending on engine, state of health, state of tune
It has very direct steering (you don't have to take your hands off the wheel for most driving)
If it has decent shocks and setup - it's a good handling car
It's pretty quick on the track (I've done the TVRCC Cadwell track day every year and thoroughly enjoyed myself)
It still turns heads and get appreciative comments - I think that it has aged very well and doesn't look "dated"
Points you might like to consider:
The direct steering means that you do have to pay attention at all times. I find that this helps me to keep alert rather that the soporific effect that lots of modern cars have on your driving
The rear seats are great for small children, but really its a 2 + 1 rather than a true 2 + 2 (the passenger seat moves a long way forward and has a generous footwell (some TVRs have the battery at front of passenger footwell, the Cerbera doesn't)
There are no traction control / electronic aides / ABS - however for many this is core to the "analogue" appeal of the driving
The only way to tell is to drive a few - please note that as an "older car" the suspension set up and condition will very enormously from car to car - so best to try a few.
Good luck !!!
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