Chassis Refurb
Discussion
ukkid35 said:
Nice work, but mount the Speedo Sensor on the passenger side, there is less run-off on that side, which is what the later cars use. The sensor will last longer that way (not my tip, but from remap guru Joolz).
Thanks for the advice, I will get it swapped round at some point to the other sideOn goes the painting, both rear and front hubs cleaned up and painted
quickly went over a set off new ball joints for both top and bottom on the front suspension
also cleaned up the front hub assembly, firstly I cleaned all the aluminium parts in the dish washer, wife wasn't impressed!
before
after
I also used a acid called Alubright to restore the metal, then Jetlaq to seal the metal, I have done a decent amount of reading on both products and appears they have excellent reviews. I used the Jetlaq spray on any exposed bolts, nuts or aluminum surfaces, it leaves a thin protective film over the metal which can be applied time and time again.
I also bought more sets of bolts, for the hubs etc
Most of the parts are ready for the reassembly
quickly went over a set off new ball joints for both top and bottom on the front suspension
also cleaned up the front hub assembly, firstly I cleaned all the aluminium parts in the dish washer, wife wasn't impressed!
before
after
I also used a acid called Alubright to restore the metal, then Jetlaq to seal the metal, I have done a decent amount of reading on both products and appears they have excellent reviews. I used the Jetlaq spray on any exposed bolts, nuts or aluminum surfaces, it leaves a thin protective film over the metal which can be applied time and time again.
I also bought more sets of bolts, for the hubs etc
Most of the parts are ready for the reassembly
Also used the Alubright and Jetlaq on the speedo sensor mounting, really came up well
A few more parts and tools bought for the rebuild, a reamer was one the best purchases for cleaning out all the paint from the bolt holes.
also purchased a few spacers for the suspension
A few more parts and tools bought for the rebuild, a reamer was one the best purchases for cleaning out all the paint from the bolt holes.
also purchased a few spacers for the suspension
Edited by Jonbouy on Friday 9th December 15:53
Edited by Jonbouy on Friday 9th December 15:54
finished the rear end build up, assembled the hubs, handbrake, and service brake new handbrake cable etc.
Also found these o-rings which I used on the chassis to protect the hand brake cable from rubbing and chaffing
Goodridge hoses all new bush's
Also found these o-rings which I used on the chassis to protect the hand brake cable from rubbing and chaffing
Goodridge hoses all new bush's
Edited by Jonbouy on Friday 11th November 21:05
Before you go much further check your rear disc position in the caliper.
Looking at your images there is a lot of paint on your back plates etc and I had issues with caliper clearance when I refurbed the rear end on mine.
I had very light coats of paint and it caused caliper to disc clash issues.
Also, any painted surface that is used to clamp parts is likely to shift when it warms up so I'd be very wary of leaving paint on any of the mounting faces of the rear hubs/discs etc.
Also here, use thread lock on the front diff bolts and a nyloc on the back. These come undone and wrekc the diff mounting plates.
Just some pointers on what I found when doing mine.
Looking at your images there is a lot of paint on your back plates etc and I had issues with caliper clearance when I refurbed the rear end on mine.
I had very light coats of paint and it caused caliper to disc clash issues.
Also, any painted surface that is used to clamp parts is likely to shift when it warms up so I'd be very wary of leaving paint on any of the mounting faces of the rear hubs/discs etc.
Also here, use thread lock on the front diff bolts and a nyloc on the back. These come undone and wrekc the diff mounting plates.
Just some pointers on what I found when doing mine.
ridds said:
Before you go much further check your rear disc position in the caliper.
Looking at your images there is a lot of paint on your back plates etc and I had issues with caliper clearance when I refurbed the rear end on mine.
I had very light coats of paint and it caused caliper to disc clash issues.
Also, any painted surface that is used to clamp parts is likely to shift when it warms up so I'd be very wary of leaving paint on any of the mounting faces of the rear hubs/discs etc.
Also here, use thread lock on the front diff bolts and a nyloc on the back. These come undone and wrekc the diff mounting plates.
Just some pointers on what I found when doing mine.
Hi RiddsLooking at your images there is a lot of paint on your back plates etc and I had issues with caliper clearance when I refurbed the rear end on mine.
I had very light coats of paint and it caused caliper to disc clash issues.
Also, any painted surface that is used to clamp parts is likely to shift when it warms up so I'd be very wary of leaving paint on any of the mounting faces of the rear hubs/discs etc.
Also here, use thread lock on the front diff bolts and a nyloc on the back. These come undone and wrekc the diff mounting plates.
Just some pointers on what I found when doing mine.
Thanks for the input, I have assembled the rear end and all is well, I did mask off most flush surfaces or removed the paint. I have thread locked most bolts that don't have a nylon nut but. I put nuts on the other side of the diff bolts to ensure they come loose
Apologies for not posting for the last couple of months
I decided whilst the gearbox and steering rack were off, it would be a good idea to paint them both. I decided to use Ford star mist silver, with a coat of lacquer
firstly cleaned both the rack and steering box using a wire wheel and panel wipe with a scotch brite.
Gearbox
Rack
Painted with 3 coats of colour and 2 coats of clear lacquer
Gearbox
Rack
I decided whilst the gearbox and steering rack were off, it would be a good idea to paint them both. I decided to use Ford star mist silver, with a coat of lacquer
firstly cleaned both the rack and steering box using a wire wheel and panel wipe with a scotch brite.
Gearbox
Rack
Painted with 3 coats of colour and 2 coats of clear lacquer
Gearbox
Rack
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