New member, Hello and questions
Discussion
Hello,
I am finally actually, realistically looking to buy a cerbera at long last. (well in the next couple of years, when the right one appears)
I have a rough idea of my buying parameters at the moment. (mk2 for reliability, 4.5l, spider alloys, not really fussed about colour, must have chassis done (or fully inspected with photo's) but i hear service history isnt really worth the paper it's printed on?? so looking to buy from a well known owner.
I have really fancied one for a long time and now starting to make it a reality. So my first port of call is meeting, talking to owners and learning as much as I can, as I am in no rush to buy one I might as well do plenty of research and learning to ensure I dont buy a money pit (well, no more than it will be anyway
I have read lots of articles on here but not many other forums to check out that I could find. (tvr club is paid for only? bit crap for non owning members)
So, Greetings to you Cerbera owners and I am insanely jealous of you all.
and my first question to you is, where can I see a/some cerberas in the flesh! maybe even get a passenger ride to quench my thirst before ownership. Are there any meets etc coming up? even if it is just a couple of people.
I live in aldershot/farnham boarder. (farnham hampshire)
Kind regards, Jack.
I am finally actually, realistically looking to buy a cerbera at long last. (well in the next couple of years, when the right one appears)
I have a rough idea of my buying parameters at the moment. (mk2 for reliability, 4.5l, spider alloys, not really fussed about colour, must have chassis done (or fully inspected with photo's) but i hear service history isnt really worth the paper it's printed on?? so looking to buy from a well known owner.
I have really fancied one for a long time and now starting to make it a reality. So my first port of call is meeting, talking to owners and learning as much as I can, as I am in no rush to buy one I might as well do plenty of research and learning to ensure I dont buy a money pit (well, no more than it will be anyway
I have read lots of articles on here but not many other forums to check out that I could find. (tvr club is paid for only? bit crap for non owning members)
So, Greetings to you Cerbera owners and I am insanely jealous of you all.
and my first question to you is, where can I see a/some cerberas in the flesh! maybe even get a passenger ride to quench my thirst before ownership. Are there any meets etc coming up? even if it is just a couple of people. I live in aldershot/farnham boarder. (farnham hampshire)
Kind regards, Jack.
ripskin said:
but i hear service history isnt really worth the paper it's printed on??
Hi Jack and welcome! Where did you hear ^ from? A good service history from reputable TVR specialists is certainly worth quite a lot IMHO.There is a TVR meet at Virginia Water this friday 9-11am. I should be going and be happy to show you around mine. Other than that there is the big Burghley House TVRCC meet in a couple of weeks.
I've owned mine now for 4 weeks now totally fallen for it and is willing to give her
Anything she needs. Absolute love it. Took As bit of a risk and bought the first one I test drove
Probertly not a good idea but luckily she's a good one (so far)
There is a meet in Chatham this Thursday at 7pm
Chatham dockside I'll be there and there have been a few tvrs there previously
Anything she needs. Absolute love it. Took As bit of a risk and bought the first one I test drove
Probertly not a good idea but luckily she's a good one (so far)
There is a meet in Chatham this Thursday at 7pm
Chatham dockside I'll be there and there have been a few tvrs there previously
r8black said:
I've owned mine now for 4 weeks now totally fallen for it and is willing to give her
Anything she needs. Absolute love it. Took As bit of a risk and bought the first one I test drove
Probertly not a good idea but luckily she's a good one (so far)
There is a meet in Chatham this Thursday at 7pm
Chatham dockside I'll be there and there have been a few tvrs there previously
That is stunning and I should not look at threads of Cerbera, I should not look at Cerbera threadsAnything she needs. Absolute love it. Took As bit of a risk and bought the first one I test drove
Probertly not a good idea but luckily she's a good one (so far)
There is a meet in Chatham this Thursday at 7pm
Chatham dockside I'll be there and there have been a few tvrs there previously
r8black said:
I've owned mine now for 4 weeks now totally fallen for it and is willing to give her
Anything she needs. Absolute love it. Took As bit of a risk and bought the first one I test drove
Probertly not a good idea but luckily she's a good one (so far)
There is a meet in Chatham this Thursday at 7pm
Chatham dockside I'll be there and there have been a few tvrs there previously
That is stunning and I should not look at threads of Cerbera, I should not look at Cerbera threadsAnything she needs. Absolute love it. Took As bit of a risk and bought the first one I test drove
Probertly not a good idea but luckily she's a good one (so far)
There is a meet in Chatham this Thursday at 7pm
Chatham dockside I'll be there and there have been a few tvrs there previously
You do need to do your research...!
Why a mk2 for reliability? A well cared for one is key regardless of age.
Spider alloys..virtually all 4.5 'mk2' came with spiders
Specialist SH - it's deinitely worth the paper it's written on ASSUMING the current owner has dug deep during ownership and not saved all the bills for the next owner.
Chassis - not many mk2 cerbs have required chassis work. The 98 - 99 era Tvr's tend to prematurely rot.
Owners club - the forum on here is much more comprehensive. You don't however need a Tvr to become a member.
A late mk2 in 4.5 form (non red rose) in great condition is c£25k but will still require a fare old bit of cash to keep it on the road.
Why a mk2 for reliability? A well cared for one is key regardless of age.
Spider alloys..virtually all 4.5 'mk2' came with spiders
Specialist SH - it's deinitely worth the paper it's written on ASSUMING the current owner has dug deep during ownership and not saved all the bills for the next owner.
Chassis - not many mk2 cerbs have required chassis work. The 98 - 99 era Tvr's tend to prematurely rot.
Owners club - the forum on here is much more comprehensive. You don't however need a Tvr to become a member.
A late mk2 in 4.5 form (non red rose) in great condition is c£25k but will still require a fare old bit of cash to keep it on the road.
I'm not that far from you. In Didcot. You'd be more than welcome to pop over for a cuppa and a natter. Mine is apart at the moment but once it is back together I'd take you out for a ride. I looked at 2 when I bought mine and seem to have got lucky so far (especially for the price).
Also the Oxfordshire TVR club meet is this Thursday in Standlake at the Blackhorse pub. There might be some Cerbs. There will be some owners I'm sure.
Also the Oxfordshire TVR club meet is this Thursday in Standlake at the Blackhorse pub. There might be some Cerbs. There will be some owners I'm sure.
If its not raining there is a new car / photo meet I am going to tomorrow. Its called "four nine six" on facebook. Looks like it could be fun, 7pmish at the Peacock farm pub in Bracknell. I will be there in my Cerb if you want to have a look. hopefully weather permitting see you there.
All performance cars are money pits and Cerberas are no exception. As Gary says the car demands money. You can spend a fair wedge as you go, or you can make do and mend for a while. The car WILL burn the money at some point however so if an owner thinks the car has been cheap to run, then there's a big bill somewhere in the distance.
Fundamentally a Cerbera is a very high performance and fairly light weight car built using either off-the-shelf parts or specially made parts with limited R&D. Things do wear out.
As for reliability - if you prefer the looks of the later cars then that's fine, but they'll bork themselves as readily as an older car. The difference is more likely that the later car hasn't finished knackering all its original components yet and therefore look more reliable at face value because the total spend on the car hasn't yet caught up with that of the older cars. Having now owned a 1999 4.5 into my 3rd year now, and so far avoided any absolute catastrophes yet still managed to sink a few thousand last year and the year before, I'd be far more interested in age of the clutch pack that is fitted, when the slave and master cylinder were last replaced (with new, not just seals replaced), when the brakes were changed (a set of brakes will cost you the thick end of a grand for a Cerb) and what dampers, springs and suspension bushes were fitted than simply how young the car is and how polished the paintwork is.
A slightly dull and stone chipped car can be touched in and machine polished easily. A gleaming garage queen still on original everything will have your eyes out just in parts.
A 1996 4.2 with a good chassis, good valve shim thicknesses remaining, around 50k on the clock with recent clutch, Raceproved slave cylinder, Brummie's Carbon Lorraine brakes all round, recent new bushes, a set of Nitron dampers or similar, an ACT exhaust and has had fresh coils, HT leads, good throttle pots etc is more likely to reward you with good reliability.
If an engine grenades itself, then that's very unlucky and also very rare. Everything else wearing out and needing replaced is pretty much inevitable however.
I'd also suggest you try cars on 16" Saturn wheels, 17" RL7 wheels and 18" Spider wheels before deciding you want the latter. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
That's before getting in to the effect they have on the drive.
Fundamentally a Cerbera is a very high performance and fairly light weight car built using either off-the-shelf parts or specially made parts with limited R&D. Things do wear out.
As for reliability - if you prefer the looks of the later cars then that's fine, but they'll bork themselves as readily as an older car. The difference is more likely that the later car hasn't finished knackering all its original components yet and therefore look more reliable at face value because the total spend on the car hasn't yet caught up with that of the older cars. Having now owned a 1999 4.5 into my 3rd year now, and so far avoided any absolute catastrophes yet still managed to sink a few thousand last year and the year before, I'd be far more interested in age of the clutch pack that is fitted, when the slave and master cylinder were last replaced (with new, not just seals replaced), when the brakes were changed (a set of brakes will cost you the thick end of a grand for a Cerb) and what dampers, springs and suspension bushes were fitted than simply how young the car is and how polished the paintwork is.
A slightly dull and stone chipped car can be touched in and machine polished easily. A gleaming garage queen still on original everything will have your eyes out just in parts.
A 1996 4.2 with a good chassis, good valve shim thicknesses remaining, around 50k on the clock with recent clutch, Raceproved slave cylinder, Brummie's Carbon Lorraine brakes all round, recent new bushes, a set of Nitron dampers or similar, an ACT exhaust and has had fresh coils, HT leads, good throttle pots etc is more likely to reward you with good reliability.
If an engine grenades itself, then that's very unlucky and also very rare. Everything else wearing out and needing replaced is pretty much inevitable however.
I'd also suggest you try cars on 16" Saturn wheels, 17" RL7 wheels and 18" Spider wheels before deciding you want the latter. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
That's before getting in to the effect they have on the drive.
Edited by jamieduff1981 on Wednesday 1st April 06:55
Hello Jabba,
ripskin said:
but i hear service history isnt really worth the paper it's printed on??
I have read some posts where the buyer has got a service history but the car was still a pup, forged service history and the like. Although surely it would be down the the reputation of the dealer/seller?
Burghley is too far for me but I may well pop along to the Virginia water meet what colour is your cerb? so I know who you are
Thanks.
R8Black, That is a beautiful cerbera you have there, congrats!
The cream leather really sets it off too. does it have the later front end or early? I like the early style headlights personally. First one Iv'e seen in black, Gorgeous!
Hi Gazzab,
Why a mk2 for reliability? A well cared for one is key regardless of age.
Spider alloys..virtually all 4.5 'mk2' came with spiders
Specialist SH - it's deinitely worth the paper it's written on ASSUMING the current owner has dug deep during ownership and not saved all the bills for the next owner.
Chassis - not many mk2 cerbs have required chassis work. The 98 - 99 era Tvr's tend to prematurely rot.
Good advice there, I have read that the early cerbs suffered from crank failure, and some were powder coated "in house" by tvr but not very well (i do not know if this is true) It is just what I have read. I am here to learn from real owners
I have also read that the later ones are more reliable as tvr gradually ironed out the faults in build quality. (but again, it is just what I have read, heard, I'm sure you guys will correct me ifit is wrong )
Thanks bud.
Hi Jimm218,
and thanks, couldn't make it yesterday due to work commitments. how was it? and thanks for the offer I may well pop over for a natter.
Hello, jamieduff1981
quote; All performance cars are money pits and Cerberas are no exception. As Gary says the car demands money. You can spend a fair wedge as you go, or you can make do and mend for a while. The car WILL burn the money at some point however so if an owner thinks the car has been cheap to run, then there's a big bill somewhere in the distance.
Fundamentally a Cerbera is a very high performance and fairly light weight car built using either off-the-shelf parts or specially made parts with limited R&D. Things do wear out.
As for reliability - if you prefer the looks of the later cars then that's fine, but they'll bork themselves as readily as an older car. The difference is more likely that the later car hasn't finished knackering all its original components yet and therefore look more reliable at face value because the total spend on the car hasn't yet caught up with that of the older cars. Having now owned a 1999 4.5 into my 3rd year now, and so far avoided any absolute catastrophes yet still managed to sink a few thousand last year and the year before, I'd be far more interested in age of the clutch pack that is fitted, when the slave and master cylinder were last replaced (with new, not just seals replaced), when the brakes were changed (a set of brakes will cost you the thick end of a grand for a Cerb) and what dampers, springs and suspension bushes were fitted than simply how young the car is and how polished the paintwork is.
A slightly dull and stone chipped car can be touched in and machine polished easily. A gleaming garage queen still on original everything will have your eyes out just in parts.
A 1996 4.2 with a good chassis, good valve shim thicknesses remaining, around 50k on the clock with recent clutch, Raceproved slave cylinder, Brummie's Carbon Lorraine brakes all round, recent new bushes, a set of Nitron dampers or similar, an ACT exhaust and has had fresh coils, HT leads, good throttle pots etc is more likely to reward you with good reliability.
If an engine grenades itself, then that's very unlucky and also very rare. Everything else wearing out and needing replaced is pretty much inevitable however.
I'd also suggest you try cars on 16" Saturn wheels, 17" RL7 wheels and 18" Spider wheels before deciding you want the latter. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
That's before getting in to the effect they have on the drive.
Excellent info there, Thank you, just what i'm after no punches pulled I thought I was dead set on the 4.5 as I have heard they are a bit more of an animal and a little more power, although I completely agree with you that a well sorted 4.2 would be a better choice than a "boarder line" 4.5. Is the difference very noticable from 4.2 to 4.5 models?
I currently have a skyine, which is probably the most reliable car I have ever owned, so it might be a shock to the system. lol.
Sorry for the long reply guys, and thanks for the help, BUT THIS THREAD NEEDS PICTURES please post up pics of your cerberas for me, its like crack for the eyes
Jack.
ripskin said:
but i hear service history isnt really worth the paper it's printed on??
I have read some posts where the buyer has got a service history but the car was still a pup, forged service history and the like. Although surely it would be down the the reputation of the dealer/seller?
Burghley is too far for me but I may well pop along to the Virginia water meet
what colour is your cerb? so I know who you are Thanks.
R8Black, That is a beautiful cerbera you have there, congrats!
The cream leather really sets it off too. does it have the later front end or early? I like the early style headlights personally. First one Iv'e seen in black, Gorgeous!
Hi Gazzab,
Why a mk2 for reliability? A well cared for one is key regardless of age.
Spider alloys..virtually all 4.5 'mk2' came with spiders
Specialist SH - it's deinitely worth the paper it's written on ASSUMING the current owner has dug deep during ownership and not saved all the bills for the next owner.
Chassis - not many mk2 cerbs have required chassis work. The 98 - 99 era Tvr's tend to prematurely rot.
Good advice there, I have read that the early cerbs suffered from crank failure, and some were powder coated "in house" by tvr but not very well (i do not know if this is true) It is just what I have read. I am here to learn from real owners
I have also read that the later ones are more reliable as tvr gradually ironed out the faults in build quality. (but again, it is just what I have read, heard, I'm sure you guys will correct me ifit is wrong
)Thanks bud.
Hi Jimm218,
and thanks, couldn't make it yesterday due to work commitments. how was it? and thanks for the offer I may well pop over for a natter.
Hello, jamieduff1981
quote; All performance cars are money pits and Cerberas are no exception. As Gary says the car demands money. You can spend a fair wedge as you go, or you can make do and mend for a while. The car WILL burn the money at some point however so if an owner thinks the car has been cheap to run, then there's a big bill somewhere in the distance.
Fundamentally a Cerbera is a very high performance and fairly light weight car built using either off-the-shelf parts or specially made parts with limited R&D. Things do wear out.
As for reliability - if you prefer the looks of the later cars then that's fine, but they'll bork themselves as readily as an older car. The difference is more likely that the later car hasn't finished knackering all its original components yet and therefore look more reliable at face value because the total spend on the car hasn't yet caught up with that of the older cars. Having now owned a 1999 4.5 into my 3rd year now, and so far avoided any absolute catastrophes yet still managed to sink a few thousand last year and the year before, I'd be far more interested in age of the clutch pack that is fitted, when the slave and master cylinder were last replaced (with new, not just seals replaced), when the brakes were changed (a set of brakes will cost you the thick end of a grand for a Cerb) and what dampers, springs and suspension bushes were fitted than simply how young the car is and how polished the paintwork is.
A slightly dull and stone chipped car can be touched in and machine polished easily. A gleaming garage queen still on original everything will have your eyes out just in parts.
A 1996 4.2 with a good chassis, good valve shim thicknesses remaining, around 50k on the clock with recent clutch, Raceproved slave cylinder, Brummie's Carbon Lorraine brakes all round, recent new bushes, a set of Nitron dampers or similar, an ACT exhaust and has had fresh coils, HT leads, good throttle pots etc is more likely to reward you with good reliability.
If an engine grenades itself, then that's very unlucky and also very rare. Everything else wearing out and needing replaced is pretty much inevitable however.
I'd also suggest you try cars on 16" Saturn wheels, 17" RL7 wheels and 18" Spider wheels before deciding you want the latter. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
That's before getting in to the effect they have on the drive.
Excellent info there, Thank you, just what i'm after no punches pulled
I thought I was dead set on the 4.5 as I have heard they are a bit more of an animal and a little more power, although I completely agree with you that a well sorted 4.2 would be a better choice than a "boarder line" 4.5. Is the difference very noticable from 4.2 to 4.5 models?I currently have a skyine, which is probably the most reliable car I have ever owned, so it might be a shock to the system. lol.
Sorry for the long reply guys, and thanks for the help, BUT THIS THREAD NEEDS PICTURES
please post up pics of your cerberas for me, its like crack for the eyes Jack.
Edited by ripskin on Thursday 2nd April 07:47
Jabbah said:
Hi Jack and welcome! Where did you hear ^ from? A good service history from reputable TVR specialists is certainly worth quite a lot IMHO.
There is a TVR meet at Virginia Water this friday 9-11am. I should be going and be happy to show you around mine. Other than that there is the big Burghley House TVRCC meet in a couple of weeks.
Jabbah, I'm hoping to head down to Virginia Water tomorrow even if the weather is filthy! Would love a close look at Cerbera if you're still going to be there. I'm looking at getting something a bit crazy for my forthcoming 40th and recently added the Cerbera to the options list!There is a TVR meet at Virginia Water this friday 9-11am. I should be going and be happy to show you around mine. Other than that there is the big Burghley House TVRCC meet in a couple of weeks.
Cheers.
Hi Jack.
My post sounded rather negative. It shouldn't have. I was aiming for realism but probably over cooked it!
There is very little difference between the engines in truth. You'll see lots of banter here between owners of different engines but they are so sensitive to tune that there are differences between good and bad examples, and well tuned cars one day and carrying a little out-of-adjustment 10 months later that the engine choice really doesn't matter.
In theory the only V8 Cerbs with single early style headlights would have been Mk1s.
The biggest shock from a Skyline probably wont be reliability, but how hard a Cerbera expects you to work to get your performance. It's the antithesis of what the philosophy of a Skyline is.
My post sounded rather negative. It shouldn't have. I was aiming for realism but probably over cooked it!
There is very little difference between the engines in truth. You'll see lots of banter here between owners of different engines but they are so sensitive to tune that there are differences between good and bad examples, and well tuned cars one day and carrying a little out-of-adjustment 10 months later that the engine choice really doesn't matter.
In theory the only V8 Cerbs with single early style headlights would have been Mk1s.
The biggest shock from a Skyline probably wont be reliability, but how hard a Cerbera expects you to work to get your performance. It's the antithesis of what the philosophy of a Skyline is.
Jhonno said:
jamieduff1981 said:
It's the antithesis of what the philosophy of a Skyline is.
It really is quite the jump!You do have to drive a Cerbera compared to most modern performance cars - but when you do - oh boy!
ripskin said:
but i hear service history isnt really worth the paper it's printed on??
Depends. If its from a recognised Indy then it's well worth it. Documented history also is good. I have every bill including the original bill of sale for all my cars history.
The 98 - 99 era Tvr's tend to prematurely rot.
Define prematurely?
It really depends on how it's been looked after, stored etc. Mine (4.2 98) was repaired a year or so ago, full body off restoration.
Good advice there, I have read that the early cerbs suffered from crank failure, and some were powder coated "in house" by tvr but not very well (i do not know if this is true) It is just what I have read. I am here to learn from real owners
I have also read that the later ones are more reliable as tvr gradually ironed out the faults in build quality. (but again, it is just what I have read, heard, I'm sure you guys will correct me ifit is wrong )
Thanks bud.
I'm still of the opinion if the cranks were going to break, they would have all done it by now, 17-19 years later!
The most sensible advice I got was to put £3K a year away for running costs. That's £250 a month and I've got nowhere near that, but when I do need something doing, the pot of cash is there and I can do it properly.
but i hear service history isnt really worth the paper it's printed on??
Depends. If its from a recognised Indy then it's well worth it. Documented history also is good. I have every bill including the original bill of sale for all my cars history.
The 98 - 99 era Tvr's tend to prematurely rot.
Define prematurely?
It really depends on how it's been looked after, stored etc. Mine (4.2 98) was repaired a year or so ago, full body off restoration.
Good advice there, I have read that the early cerbs suffered from crank failure, and some were powder coated "in house" by tvr but not very well (i do not know if this is true) It is just what I have read. I am here to learn from real owners
I have also read that the later ones are more reliable as tvr gradually ironed out the faults in build quality. (but again, it is just what I have read, heard, I'm sure you guys will correct me ifit is wrong
)Thanks bud.
I'm still of the opinion if the cranks were going to break, they would have all done it by now, 17-19 years later!
The most sensible advice I got was to put £3K a year away for running costs. That's £250 a month and I've got nowhere near that, but when I do need something doing, the pot of cash is there and I can do it properly.
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