Another snapped drive shaft and another query or two
Discussion
What a pig!
At least I was only 5 miles from home this time and not 300.
I am going to machine up my own replacements this time. Out of Titanium, stronger and lighter. I can't be doing with this again. I'll put up pics and update when it's done hopefully in around 3/4 weeks.
Also, could someone who has a non leaky car put up a picture of the positioning of the door seals please? Mine were replaced by previous owner but done very badly.
Also, the drivers door has a mind of it's own and has now started to randomly open when i'm driving. It is quite precarious when it happens clearly. Any known faults with this or do i need to take the lock apart?
Many thanks.
At least I was only 5 miles from home this time and not 300.
I am going to machine up my own replacements this time. Out of Titanium, stronger and lighter. I can't be doing with this again. I'll put up pics and update when it's done hopefully in around 3/4 weeks.
Also, could someone who has a non leaky car put up a picture of the positioning of the door seals please? Mine were replaced by previous owner but done very badly.
Also, the drivers door has a mind of it's own and has now started to randomly open when i'm driving. It is quite precarious when it happens clearly. Any known faults with this or do i need to take the lock apart?
Many thanks.
Well Ti is the best shaft material by far so that should be a good choice. I still plan to rebuild the engine and turbo it so future proofing.
I will let you know cost. I have my own machine shop so cost should be ok.
This shaft has only done 2000 miles but i do spin the rears 9 out of 10 starts. It is a 13mile trip to work and i only get 11mpg so fairly heavy use. There are a couple of bumps where you spin at 6000rpm in 3rd which probably dont help but it shouldnt break as my 4.2 is only pushing 320bhp.
I will let you know cost. I have my own machine shop so cost should be ok.
This shaft has only done 2000 miles but i do spin the rears 9 out of 10 starts. It is a 13mile trip to work and i only get 11mpg so fairly heavy use. There are a couple of bumps where you spin at 6000rpm in 3rd which probably dont help but it shouldnt break as my 4.2 is only pushing 320bhp.
scerbera said:
Well Ti is the best shaft material by far so that should be a good choice. I still plan to rebuild the engine and turbo it so future proofing.
I will let you know cost. I have my own machine shop so cost should be ok.
This shaft has only done 2000 miles but i do spin the rears 9 out of 10 starts. It is a 13mile trip to work and i only get 11mpg so fairly heavy use. There are a couple of bumps where you spin at 6000rpm in 3rd which probably dont help but it shouldnt break as my 4.2 is only pushing 320bhp.
The biggest cost would be the material then, seen as labour is in house!I will let you know cost. I have my own machine shop so cost should be ok.
This shaft has only done 2000 miles but i do spin the rears 9 out of 10 starts. It is a 13mile trip to work and i only get 11mpg so fairly heavy use. There are a couple of bumps where you spin at 6000rpm in 3rd which probably dont help but it shouldnt break as my 4.2 is only pushing 320bhp.
Let's hope the increased shock loading on the lobro's don't cause them to prematurely fail. Time will tell of course.
Output is about there then, what was the torque like?
Sounds like you enjoying your cerb!
scerbera said:
Can anyone confirm that both shafts are the same length? The snapped one is 470mm long. Broke on the land for the inner circlip. 96 4.2
they are the same length. the inner circlip groove is the weak spot, they nearly always snap there. the uj's are much much stronger. the new design has a raised bit and not a circlip groove to stop the uj going down the shaft so eliminating the weak spot.Daz
Vee8ight said:
scerbera said:
Can anyone confirm that both shafts are the same length? The snapped one is 470mm long. Broke on the land for the inner circlip. 96 4.2
they are the same length. the inner circlip groove is the weak spot, they nearly always snap there. the uj's are much much stronger. the new design has a raised bit and not a circlip groove to stop the uj going down the shaft so eliminating the weak spot.Daz
scerbera said:
This shaft has only done 2000 miles but i do spin the rears 9 out of 10 starts. It is a 13mile trip to work and i only get 11mpg so fairly heavy use. There are a couple of bumps where you spin at 6000rpm in 3rd which probably dont help but it shouldnt break as my 4.2 is only pushing 320bhp.
How do you get the oil up to temp in 13miles ? Your engine will be next ?Vee8ight said:
they are the same length. the inner circlip groove is the weak spot, they nearly always snap there. the uj's are much much stronger. the new design has a raised bit and not a circlip groove to stop the uj going down the shaft so eliminating the weak spot.
Daz
I've had mine made like this without the inner circlip. Brummies are from 'Dave Mac' in Coventry, they did my prop and impressed with service. Brummies previous unbreakable ones broke. The other ones I've seen are the rifle barrel type which are hollow to allow some flex over the length under shock torque, which makes sense. They have no failures apparently but are quite expensive by comparison.Daz
Be interested to hear how the OP and others get on.
thefrog said:
scerbera said:
This shaft has only done 2000 miles but i do spin the rears 9 out of 10 starts. It is a 13mile trip to work and i only get 11mpg so fairly heavy use. There are a couple of bumps where you spin at 6000rpm in 3rd which probably dont help but it shouldnt break as my 4.2 is only pushing 320bhp.
How do you get the oil up to temp in 13miles ? Your engine will be next ?scerbera said:
The temp of your oil is largely irrelevant. Colder oil will provide a thicker film with a higher resistance to shearing. And so give you higher load carrying. The only real area of concern in a cold engine, and we are only talking very initial startup is that your pistons could expand too quickly for the bore, depending of course on the tolerance. The piston and liner will warm in a few minutes and so with a 30 sec sit on the drive, a 1 min 30 mph limit and get out of the street the engine is warm enough. In my opinion of course.
That's really novel to hear somebody talking sense about warming engines up.Edited by Andy_mr2sc on Wednesday 8th April 07:40
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