Radiator options

Radiator options

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jammy_basturd

Original Poster:

29,776 posts

211 months

Monday 20th April 2015
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Had a leak on the radiator for a few weeks and now have some time to sort it out. I had been all set to order an aluminium rad this week (today in fact) but having done some last minute research it seems an Alu rad, whilst maybe providing better cooling, have their own problems from vibration induced fatigue.

The best option appears to be to go for a brass/copper rad, but I can't seem to find anyone who can supply one, let alone anyone who has them on the shelf! Does anyone have a contact?

Failing that, any reason not to just go with a new standard item again?

Jhonno

5,762 posts

140 months

Monday 20th April 2015
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Tbh.. Just mount the alloy rad properly on vibration mounts and it will be fine. I have never actually heard of one failing, but have heard the failure theory.

anonymous-user

53 months

Monday 20th April 2015
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jammy_basturd said:
Had a leak on the radiator for a few weeks and now have some time to sort it out. I had been all set to order an aluminium rad this week (today in fact) but having done some last minute research it seems an Alu rad, whilst maybe providing better cooling, have their own problems from vibration induced fatigue.

The best option appears to be to go for a brass/copper rad, but I can't seem to find anyone who can supply one, let alone anyone who has them on the shelf! Does anyone have a contact?

Failing that, any reason not to just go with a new standard item again?
I had mine re-cored and refurbed by Guildford Radiators, they do plenty of TVR related work and did a lovely job imho. Significantly cheaper than buying new too.

jammy_basturd

Original Poster:

29,776 posts

211 months

Monday 20th April 2015
quotequote all
djstevec said:
I had mine re-cored and refurbed by Guildford Radiators, they do plenty of TVR related work and did a lovely job imho. Significantly cheaper than buying new too.
The problem is I can't have the car off the road for any length of time as it is my only car.

pmessling

2,284 posts

202 months

Monday 20th April 2015
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I fitted a radtec ali rad and had it powder coated to improve its life. You might as well replace the air con rad at the same time as it will probably be in the same condition as the old rad.

Temps are lower and its fitted on rubber mounts any way so shouldn't have the problem you say about.

mk1fan

10,507 posts

224 months

Monday 20th April 2015
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Check out Aaron Radiators fif you buy an ally item.

Nothing wrong with Radtec, quality item.

Aaron's is as good, £120ish cheaper and mention Pistonheads and you may get a speacial price against the advertised one. I have one fitted to my Tamora. Renewed the mounting bobbins and bushes at the same time. I have no issues to date.

julian64

14,317 posts

253 months

Monday 20th April 2015
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I fitted the radtech one. As long as you specify sizes I don't see why vibration woul dbe a problem. There are rubber mounts underneath as pmessling says. The fans are fitted to teh shroud so tere shouldn't be any fatigue

1) Don't buy one that needs the rubebr mounts removed to fit it
2) Don't buy one unless it has the original shroud fitting for the fans.

jammy_basturd

Original Poster:

29,776 posts

211 months

Monday 20th April 2015
quotequote all
Thanks guys, I'm waiting on a callback from someone at Aaron Radiator, seems like the best value for money.

jammy_basturd

Original Poster:

29,776 posts

211 months

Monday 20th April 2015
quotequote all
Alu rad from Aaron Radiator being sent out in the post tomorrow, plus as stated a little discount by way of being a PH memeber! clap

Very nice and friendly bloke, even asked about the difference between a Copper and Alu rad. He said he'd probably go with a Copper rad himself, purely because a Copper rad can be repaired from stone damage, whereas an Alu rad can't.

Unfortunately they don't sell a Copper rad, I can't wait around for a re-core and with the discount they offered the Alu rad wasn't that more expensive than a new standard rad!

julian64

14,317 posts

253 months

Monday 20th April 2015
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The alu rad I installed actually knocked the temp down a reasonable way. Or maybe because I cleaned the thermistat out at the same time. Anyway it sits rock solid now even in traffic whereas before it used to gently creep up on a hot day.

Aluminium rads are actually quite amenable to tig welding, ask me how I know this smile.
Copper rads you can just solder holes, but ali need the welder.

But if you are looking for a reason to go for a aluminium radiator then the reason you want is the advantage of weight distribution inn the car. A standard Cerb is front heavy. Not as much as you would think but it is front heavy. The Aluminium rad is signoificantly lighter than the old one and right out at the nose of the car even a small weight loss is beneficial for the cars weight distribution.

It had quite a marked improvement with my corner weighting to fit the ali rad.

Milky400

1,960 posts

177 months

Monday 20th April 2015
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Although the aluminium is lighter, it's also larger capacity.

I found Aaron rads fantastic, aswell as Anglia Radiators in Cambridge. I actually ended up with a rad from Anglia (long story) for £150. I wanted a copper rad as opposed to aluminium, but refuse to pay the £270 odd that TVR wanted plus £70 deposit on exchange. So enquires with Aaron, but as said Anglia found me one for £150.....

What a difference a new Rad makes....

mk1fan

10,507 posts

224 months

Monday 20th April 2015
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If the weight remains the same I'd go for more capacity.

Hoofa

3,151 posts

207 months

Monday 20th April 2015
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Nope I had a radtec fail even though it was mounted on rubbers, to be honest why bother with ally a re core with a thicker matrix is just as good and will probably not be prone to the allow problems

julian64

14,317 posts

253 months

Tuesday 21st April 2015
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Hoofa said:
Nope I had a radtec fail even though it was mounted on rubbers, to be honest why bother with ally a re core with a thicker matrix is just as good and will probably not be prone to the allow problems
How did it fail?

mk1fan

10,507 posts

224 months

Tuesday 21st April 2015
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It tried to float a Superman off a low berm but got caught by a gust of side wind. All on the Gopro #epicfail innit.

viperbluecerb

69 posts

130 months

Tuesday 21st April 2015
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My Radtec unit failed and the repairer I took it too seemed to think that the way the cowling was welded to the rest of the unit may have caused some stress where the tubes of the core were brazed to the headers. I got lots of very small champagne bubbles all around these joins under pressure test. After a temporary fix with some special glue that never really worked, I ditched it an went for an Aaron rad. It came without a cowling which was exactly what I wanted as I made my own which screws to the top and bottom of the core and doesn't sit against any other part of the rad (the pic shows the cowling fitted before some final filing was carried out). Really happy with it so far.




jammy_basturd

Original Poster:

29,776 posts

211 months

Tuesday 21st April 2015
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Am I right in thinking the Aaron rad comes with fixings to take the standard cowling?

viperbluecerb

69 posts

130 months

Tuesday 21st April 2015
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I believe so yes - I modeled the alloy cowling from the standard ones, although I didn't use them to mark and drill the fixing holes.

mk1fan

10,507 posts

224 months

Tuesday 21st April 2015
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The Aaron rad I fitted to the Tamora had mountings to take the TVR cowels fitted to the original rad.

Supateg

724 posts

141 months

Tuesday 21st April 2015
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jammy_basturd said:
Am I right in thinking the Aaron rad comes with fixings to take the standard cowling?
100% Yes. Got one, fitted it, superb and reasonable price.

To reiterate what's been said, if you have aircon that condenser rad will need doing at the same time.
If you buy new mount bobbins they are generally stiffer rubber than standard, I drilled relief holes in mine to make them more forgiving. (For fear of inducing extra stress in the rad )