Discussion
When the headlights go out, the dash lights stay on. No pulsing that I noticed. I presume the tail lights and side lights are on, also. Luckily there was plenty of other traffic around when it happened the first time, could've been quite nasty, obviously.
I've not had this problem before despite having the hids fitted for a number of years, although when I put the headlights on the speedo will often go to zero briefly.
When (if) I get home I'll fit relays and clean up the control box connections.
Edit: if you're wondering about the voltage regulation from the alternator, I have noticed a fair amount of variation in voltage shown by the RS-AJP app, perhaps it was high. I was giving it a more revs than usual when it first failed.
I've not had this problem before despite having the hids fitted for a number of years, although when I put the headlights on the speedo will often go to zero briefly.
When (if) I get home I'll fit relays and clean up the control box connections.
Edit: if you're wondering about the voltage regulation from the alternator, I have noticed a fair amount of variation in voltage shown by the RS-AJP app, perhaps it was high. I was giving it a more revs than usual when it first failed.
Edited by FarmyardPants on Tuesday 27th October 22:15
I am currently on the ferry, having left Genoa this morning around 8am. The cerb didn't try to kill me today, the lights were fine. I tried to remove the plug from the dim/dip box to give it cleanup but it seems to have welded itself on. I left the box hanging in the boot to improve cooling a bit more. The dash lights do vary in brightness but I only saw this a couple of times.
I did take the Chamonix/Switzerland route and it was pretty amazing
. The pic below says it all!
I did take the Chamonix/Switzerland route and it was pretty amazing
. The pic below says it all!robsco said:
Did you use your main beam for a prolonged period before your lights failed? I tend to lose my headlights for several hours if I use full beam for more than a minute or two.
Nope, didn't use full beam at all, although I had my thumb hovering over the button in case everything went dark again 
Just to update my thread..
Andy at APM found both top ballpoints seized/shagged and bushes knackered. Apparently poly bushes aren't great for joints that move - ok for diff bush but for wishbones, the oem bushes are better. All that replaced, new front tyres and tracking done, it drives like a new car, the difference is amazing. Although the tyre place put 33psi in
I have wired in relays for the headlights but the cause of the problem appears to have been one of the sidelights in the main beams had the connector hanging off and I think the wires shorted together, which is what caused the dim/dip box to overheat and shut down. That's my fault as I didn't have spade connectors small enough so bodged it. That's unbodged now.
Also fixed the heater blowers which had the ribbon cable hanging off which caused them to come on and off randomly, replaced the AC led, fixed the stereo (fuse to amp was burnt and giving a dodgey connection).
Finally got the car off the axle stands and got in to test out the lights.
Yep, you guessed it: no clutch pedal. Can't seem to bleed it this time. Fluid will go through it with the nipple open but there's no pedal pressure with it closed. The reservoir was empty in spite of my remote reservoir as well, so that needs looking at (maybe raise the height of it a bit).
So either it's full of air or the slave has gone. There's fluid underneath but there always is, I know it leaks.
Will try another bleed
Andy at APM found both top ballpoints seized/shagged and bushes knackered. Apparently poly bushes aren't great for joints that move - ok for diff bush but for wishbones, the oem bushes are better. All that replaced, new front tyres and tracking done, it drives like a new car, the difference is amazing. Although the tyre place put 33psi in
I have wired in relays for the headlights but the cause of the problem appears to have been one of the sidelights in the main beams had the connector hanging off and I think the wires shorted together, which is what caused the dim/dip box to overheat and shut down. That's my fault as I didn't have spade connectors small enough so bodged it. That's unbodged now.
Also fixed the heater blowers which had the ribbon cable hanging off which caused them to come on and off randomly, replaced the AC led, fixed the stereo (fuse to amp was burnt and giving a dodgey connection).
Finally got the car off the axle stands and got in to test out the lights.
Yep, you guessed it: no clutch pedal. Can't seem to bleed it this time. Fluid will go through it with the nipple open but there's no pedal pressure with it closed. The reservoir was empty in spite of my remote reservoir as well, so that needs looking at (maybe raise the height of it a bit).
So either it's full of air or the slave has gone. There's fluid underneath but there always is, I know it leaks.
Will try another bleed
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