Cerbera Slave cylinder

[Joyceyboy]

Evening all,

My knowledge is slowing building with my cerb, I'm relatively new to the TVR community and so far really enjoying it.

So my Cerb has had constant use when she hasn't been throwing tantrums but today when i tried to take her out I found the clutch peddle a little slack then followed not being able to put her in gear.

Just before i bought the Cerb she had a new clutch and slave cylinder fitted some 4000 miles ago. When i took ownership i noticed the gearbox was leaking from the bellhousing so i had this repaired at my local TVR specialist but i have since noticed it still dripping from the bellhousing.(Planned to be sorted by TVR Specialist)

So my question is: has the leak from the bellhousing caused premature slave cylinder failure or has it just failed? Because either way the box might need to come out and the possibility of the TVR specialist doing the job saves me a few evening works.

Or could it be another issue?

Lee

[pmessling]

Sounds like it's the slaves gone. Was it an original slave or a raceproves unit that was done 4K ago.

Raceproved a good up grade but even these are not a long term solution.

[Joyceyboy]

I believe its a standard slave. I'm planning to pull the gearbox off anyway over the winter. Any pointers?

Lee

[fatjon]

Had several of both types of slave in 2 bellhousings. All have leaked sooner or later, usually sooner. Looking now at the Tilton slave conversion as I'm not sure there is a cure.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[Joyceyboy]

Thanks that was a good read. The race approved slaves, who stocks them?

Lee

[fatjon]

http://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-q-...

[Mr Cerbera]

Hi Lee

Sounds very much like the seal has gone on the Slave. The idiots who have done the work on the car already should know this so don't use them again. Here's some interesting catch-up reading.

My 'original' clutch lasted 40K. I currently have the 'Raceprooved' slave in and she has done 36K.

If you have a garage then do it yourself. It's relatively easy.

[Steve_T]

An issue I only recently discovered is that the bell housing gets pitted, which means it doesn't matter if the o-ring on the slave is brand new, it won't seal properly. You can clean things up, but you really need to refinish the surface. I'm not sure if a different metal would help here in terms of durability.

ETA: Is this what you're already talking about?

[esso]

The main issue regarding slave cylinders is the fitting of the seals making sure they are not `nicked` or `pinched` during fitting and ensuring that plenty of red grease is used during fitting. Also it is essential that there are no sharp edges or `burrs` on the slave cylinder components. Any of these will cause premature failing of the slave cylinder seals which it sounds like is the symptoms you have. I fitted a new standard slave cylinder with new seals to my Cerb 26k miles ago and touch wood have not had a issue to date....however the master cylinder is a different issue...I have had 6 of them!!!......also be aware that there are different slave cylinders, mainly regarding the piston lengths....make sure ALL the components are IDENTICAL if you fit a new one.

Edited by esso on Friday 20th November 17:22

[greenracing]

Great reply from esso. I replaced my "standard" one with a new standard one only to find that the new ones was actually longer, trouble was I didn't realise until I got everything back together.....

[esso]

....neither did I........

[jamieduff1981]

My slave had been replaced by a professional (I use that term with the highest contempt) 1000 miles before I bought it. After the big yellow taxi home, the slave had been assembled with ordinary general purpose grease (oil based) which had predictably dissolved the new seals.

Red Rubber Grease is very important! Any old grease WILL NOT do!

[esso]

.....any 'professionals' should know that normal grease will rot seals such as this....surely???....red rubber grease is the only way,it's not particularly easy to get hold of....I got mine from a motorcycle shop.

[Thunderroad]

I used the hydraulic fluid that i filled the clutch system with to assemble mine 8000 miles ago, should i not have done this?

[jamieduff1981]

That'll be ok. More chance of nicking the seals using hydraulic oil as an assembly lubricant than grease but if you're 8000 miles in you obviously didn't damage them

Grease helps it all slide together and keeps it slippy. Petroleum based grease helps with the former but eats the seals. Red rubber grease is just the ticket.

I got a tin of it in "Autosave", the local car accessory shop. It's not widely used though; most people and cars have no use for it!

[esso]

Red rubber grease is vegetable based not petroleum based, its commonly used in the motorcross world for shock absorber and fork seals and is known as `red race grease`.

[billybradshaw]

esso said:

Red rubber grease is vegetable based not petroleum based, its commonly used in the motorcross world for shock absorber and fork seals and is known as `red race grease`.

Millers make it, quite pricey, 10 quid for 500g but it's good stuff.

Ian

[Jhonno]

Think I got my tub on eBay..