Tilton Slave, Zircotech Headers and Injector cleaning

[Supateg]

Slightly associated topic…
Rear gearbox mount M10 bolts….
Is this std?



Really helpful self locking bolts…

[pmessling]

Yes very much standard. And works

[FarmyardPants]

Supateg said:

FarmyardPants said:

Thanks! Just one gearbox bolt to go, which is a bit of a PITA to get at/get the hex key seated properly

I’d expect it’s one the top ones which requires an unusual number of wobble extensions

Or a loss of skin…

Indeed. I tried a 3/8 UJ but that snapped! Managed it in the end..

[FarmyardPants]

pmessling said:

Yes very much standard. And works

Yes mine are like that too, great improvisation

[FarmyardPants]

Have made some progress but got a bit stuck. I am following the late, great MadMark’s guide. The gearbox input shaft is clear of the slave but the gearbox is wedged. It’s tight on the manifolds and also touching the chassis in the gearstick region. I guess I need to rotate it(?)

[Supateg]

FarmyardPants said:

Have made some progress but got a bit stuck. I am following the late, great MadMark’s guide. The gearbox input shaft is clear of the slave but the gearbox is wedged. It’s tight on the manifolds and also touching the chassis in the gearstick region. I guess I need to rotate it(?)

I have the two piece act manifolds, so maybe another user can help. However I always undo the gear selection plate (four bolts top of gearbox and tie the gearstick up and out of the way inside the cabin. The engine sump is supported with a block of wood and a jack underneath as I can lower the rear slightly to allow removal rearwards for me. I understand the manifolds for you will be hindering operations!
Good luck

Edited by Supateg on Sunday 28th January 17:42

[Supateg]

Picture for how I detach the gearstick.

Hth

[FarmyardPants]

Supateg said:

FarmyardPants said:

Have made some progress but got a bit stuck. I am following the late, great MadMark’s guide. The gearbox input shaft is clear of the slave but the gearbox is wedged. It’s tight on the manifolds and also touching the chassis in the gearstick region. I guess I need to rotate it(?)

I have the two please act manifolds, so maybe another user can help. However I always undo the gear selection plate (four bolts top of gearbox and tie the gearstick up and out of the way inside the cabin. The engine sump is supported with a block of wood and a jack underneath as I can lower the rear slightly to allow removal rearwards for me. I understand the manifolds for you will be hindering operations!
Good luck

Thanks, yes I also jacked the sump and, later, the bellhousing, to try to get the angle right. Otherwise the natural angle for the GB shaft exiting the clutch/slave sends the GB into the manifolds, and I didn’t want to damage the input shaft retainer . With a piece of wood holding down the clutch I was able to separate the GB about 4 inches, at which point, after assessing the situation, I reached for the swarfega

Edit: I have detached gearstick with the 4 bolts and tied gearstick up. The gaiter is straining.

[FarmyardPants]

The current state of play.



The bottom of the box is on the manifolds.
The top is right at the top of the transmission tunnel:



(I am supporting the gearbox, I just removed the jack temporarily for the first photo)

I will try jacking up the bell housing and front of the gearbox to lower the rear, and try to get the whole thing over the manifold flanges but it is very tight

[Supateg]

FarmyardPants said:

The current state of play.



The bottom of the box is on the manifolds.
The top is right at the top of the transmission tunnel:



(I am supporting the gearbox, I just removed the jack temporarily for the first photo)

I will try jacking up the bell housing and front of the gearbox to lower the rear, and try to get the whole thing over the manifold flanges but it is very tight

What’s happening with the propshaft? In the picture it looks to be attached to the gearbox?

[FarmyardPants]

Yes prop is still on at the moment, it is slung below the chassis/diff and free to move backwards. I’ll take it off in the next session.

[CerbWill]

Lower the support on the bellhousing so you can lift the gearbox more. You need to be careful of the flanges on the exhaust manifolds, they can catch on the gearbox and stop it moving. Finally you might need to gently lever the manifolds apart for the box to come out. There's a method involving spinning the gearbox upside down but I've not had to resort to that for my car.

[pmessling]

Both times I've had the gearbox out I've found it much easier to remove the manifolds

[FarmyardPants]

Haven’t had much time to work on the car but got back at it today - progress is being made:



I did find it tricky to get the hole saw started - being only a few mm smaller than the bellhousing causes it to jiggle around with nothing to guide it. So I drilled through two of the original slave holes and screwed a piece of wood to the back, for the drill bit to locate on:



The screw heads impinged on the saw a little but not enough to cause any problems.

I test fitted the (supplied) anti rotation pin and I’m pleased to say it works great, thread is correct and it lines up with the hole on the tilton. I cut about 25mm off the end of it.

Next job is to tidy up the BH and refit it for the all-important finger distance measurement..

[FarmyardPants]

FarmyardPants said:

Next job is to tidy up the BH

Of course I didn't put it in the dishwasher (darling)!

[FarmyardPants]

The gearbox is back on but I can’t get 1st, 3rd or 5th gears, with or without the clutch (engine not running yet).

Reading up it seems like it may be a problem with the nylon cup. I checked it was there before I refitted the gearstick plate. Looks like I have to lower the GB again and see what’s up. Any other ideas? Thanks